D
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I will list it.
What's on your bench
- Thread starter chainsaw _ crazy
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buttercup
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Aluminum melts at some 600*C / 1112°F, I don't think the cylinder will get that hot, even around the exhaust port.
However, since they have all kinds of gasket material in the car parts/accessories/hardware shop - like the thick conforming high temp ones, perhaps that would not be such a bad idea either.
I like that "exhaust solution", that's gonna sound just right
My dad's sentiment was:
"She's gonna bark!!"
I'll keep an eye out, thanks
I didn't refresh it, I've just been trying to get it running. I will leak test it soon, though, but for now I've got about 5 finals and around 5 papers coming due so they take a priority over saws.
Husqvarna 50 getting a big bore kit. Found out the new cylinder has a decompression provision, so now it's waiting for a valve. This is probably the cleanest the saw will ever be, it's amazing how oily sawdust can find its way into every nook and cranny.
Just finished off it's twin today with a used stock KS piston/cylinder and a new ring. Saw was treated to a complete going over and a new carb kit. It started 6th pull from a dry line. Runs very nice, only mod being gasket delete on the cylinder, still gave a generous 43 thou squish.
You can see the oil spray pattern on the cardboard, it oils quite well.
Just finished off it's twin today with a used stock KS piston/cylinder and a new ring. Saw was treated to a complete going over and a new carb kit. It started 6th pull from a dry line. Runs very nice, only mod being gasket delete on the cylinder, still gave a generous 43 thou squish.
You can see the oil spray pattern on the cardboard, it oils quite well.
Preaching to the choir on this one Pioneer.
D
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Got around to running this saw in some wood. Had a rewind mishap when first fired up, then used it (new spool, spring and rope) on 372xt to sell. So had to put left over parts together, making this ugly, usable rewind. Saw is far from a beauty queen on the outside, but guts are very good, nice oem used crank, new SKF case bearings, seals, o-ring, new lines, unlimited oem coil, new oem clutch and dual self-ported muffler. May have missed a few items. Top end is new Mahle oem 50mm, ported by a member and he can tag it, if he wants to. Cut 1/4 off key in flywheel to advance timing. Saw fired right up and tuned easily. Saw pulls strong and cuts well, compression is 210 to start. 
Your killing me with that clutch cover, I want one of those on my 372xp OE. Nice looking saw and that same person will be working my OEM OE over when I get the time to put it together.
Currently working on my McCulloch 555 but it's going to take a bit. I have a new P/C coming in for it and I want to make it a Bumble Bee.Plus I am working with Sugar Creek to get some new decals made up for the 555. I will paint it all up as well, she will be a new saw when I am done. I'm trying to decide if I want to have the covers done in the new Rhino bed lining, really thin and a hard surface or Black wrinkle powder coat. I'm thinking the bed liner would be more durable.
nice work!
And another one. "Frankensaw" made up out of four different saws. The cases are marked benchmark and Sears, but it's a Poulan 2350 cva. The saw runs fine, but oils poorly, I will have to check out the one way valves and the rest of the oiling system again. I have dealt with these saws before and their oiling system is not my favorite. I had to ditch the chain brake (and 3/4 of a pound) because it would not function. Has the weird original banana bar in 16 inch.
buttercup
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Thank you sir.
ML12
ArboristSite Guru
I did a quick and dirty port job on the chicom big bore kit I put on my 50: widened the exhaust and intake, milled the base to get 0.020" of squish, did a quick muffler mod and advanced the timing 1/3 a key and the saw is a good runner. I think the exhaust is too low (never checked, don't know) because it doesn't really turn super high RPMs, but its got healthy torque for a small saw. Had to lose the brake to clear the decomp (you need it)Starts hard, but once its going its nice. running .325 chisel on an 18" bar.
Freudianfloyd
Clinically Diagnosed with CAD
Absolutely nothing on my bench right now, and I dont know what to do about it. I just finished up my 290 to 390 conversion and fixed my stubborn 034 super. Now I'm on the hunt for the next project saw. Fingers crossed I will actually find a pro Husky saw.
I got a 50 hp evinrude lark that the bottom end looked like a steel milkshake when my buddy drained the oil. I’ll dig into it tonight
2broke2ride
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Lombard Comango on my bench....... oh, and a couple customer saws but no pics of those.
3 more to work on this winter. A Stihl 230, 250 and an Mtd. The Mtd is a runner that just needs new oil and fuel lines, the Stihls need crank or rod work. I paid $30 for the case in perfect shape, the saws were free.
Chain is sharpened on the Mini Mac 25, she's all ready to try out as soon as i have an opportunity.
On a side note, while i was doing research on my PM 270, i made the surprising and somewhat unsettling discovery that they were fitted with sealed crank bearings, in addition to having conventional crank seals. Supposedly they will get noisy when going bad as a warning (mine are completely quiet and seem tight) but now i have that to worry about. I guess nothing to do but run it and listen for any noise. I'm not tearing apart if it's running good, but the idea of 60 year old sealed crank bearings doesn't give me a warm and fuzzy feeling....
On a side note, while i was doing research on my PM 270, i made the surprising and somewhat unsettling discovery that they were fitted with sealed crank bearings, in addition to having conventional crank seals. Supposedly they will get noisy when going bad as a warning (mine are completely quiet and seem tight) but now i have that to worry about. I guess nothing to do but run it and listen for any noise. I'm not tearing apart if it's running good, but the idea of 60 year old sealed crank bearings doesn't give me a warm and fuzzy feeling....
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