Wife moved her car this morning, I looked around, the spring was not in sight. I pulled out a big can full of carburetors from under my bench, there's several Walbro carbs in it, probably find one.
What's on your bench
- Thread starter chainsaw _ crazy
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I bought a new carburetor kit for the Homelite XL, took me about 45 minutes or less to take the saw apart, rebuild the carburetor with the new kit and put it back together. I ran it for a while and then it got where I couldn't get it to idle down, no matter how I adjusted it. I then realized it was running out of fuel so I filled it up and the idle was back to normal. I never noticed before that these engines ran so fast when they were running out of gas. Some of my saws just die when they're out of gas, no high idle. Reckon something is wrong like an air leak? The H&L screws are set at a little over one turn..
I can not count the number of saws where I have ben setting the carb get it just about perfect and then the high goes lean or the idle picks up.You would think after all these years I would check the tank for fuel before I start setting the carb.
Kash
Kash
I have an additional problem or two with the XL, I think I'm gonna have to drain the oil tank after I use the saw or it will leak oil on where it sits. I tried loosening the oil cap but that doesn't work. Also, oil and fuel run out the muffler when the saw runs, not just a little but quite a bit. When you first start the saw cold the idle is very fast then slows down as it warms up. I may either sell this one cheap or use it as a parts saw for my other small Homelite saws...
Dolmar 7900 basket case saw.
Hate it already.... Can't even get the screws out for the air filter cover. Brass inserts in the fuel tank assembly just spinning.... locked up solid. Does not appear to have had fuel in the tank for quite a while. Lots of gunk sitting down in there.
Gotta ask the customer if he wants to spend $390 for just the bottom half before I cut it apart. Then add on any other problems I find....
This one may turn into a parts carcass....
Gotta ask the customer if he wants to spend $390 for just the bottom half before I cut it apart. Then add on any other problems I find....
This one may turn into a parts carcass....
Yeah, those are fun..
Not out of the ordinary in my experience. Anymore the second I hear a difference in rpm, I shut it down for a fuel up.
Latest build, Husqvarna 353 with ported cylinder.
My first attempt at porting, and I must have done something right because it screams. Before and after pictures of the ports, not even close in size compared to the stock cylinder. I widened them similar to the OEM cylinder, and then raised them slightly to make up for the base gasket delete.
First couple of minutes of cutting it didn't have much power in the mid-range, but then suddenly it woke up, so I figured that was the rings seating in. The Oregon aluminum core bar in .325 and the Stihl 23 RS pro chain is a great combo for this saw, really fast cutting and light in weight. It responds well to tuning, idles nicely and restarts instantly. Can't wait for the weather to smarten up so I can get some more time on it.
The next saw is a Mac 35. Was hard to start and only ran 5 minutes until it quit with no spark. Coil swap solved the problem, now it fires on the first pull and runs like it should.
My first attempt at porting, and I must have done something right because it screams. Before and after pictures of the ports, not even close in size compared to the stock cylinder. I widened them similar to the OEM cylinder, and then raised them slightly to make up for the base gasket delete.
First couple of minutes of cutting it didn't have much power in the mid-range, but then suddenly it woke up, so I figured that was the rings seating in. The Oregon aluminum core bar in .325 and the Stihl 23 RS pro chain is a great combo for this saw, really fast cutting and light in weight. It responds well to tuning, idles nicely and restarts instantly. Can't wait for the weather to smarten up so I can get some more time on it.
The next saw is a Mac 35. Was hard to start and only ran 5 minutes until it quit with no spark. Coil swap solved the problem, now it fires on the first pull and runs like it should.
Ok, the first 350 tore down a little. And P/C is NFG. Along with all the usual suspects I have read about the intakes on these. Clamp ears are still there just not very tight on the cylinder. Melted and blocked impulse port, bent diaphragm in carb, fuel line and filter look and feel good but while I'm this far........ new OEM! Along with plenty of other new parts soon to fitted.
This one is getting the pop up Titanikel P/C kit along with new bearings and seals. Shall we call it the Titan 350???
This one is getting the pop up Titanikel P/C kit along with new bearings and seals. Shall we call it the Titan 350???
From the looks of it I'm guessing nfg isn't for new factory good!?!?! Lol wow
Yup. Got it to start and run but was not pumping fuel well. Of course I did this before tearing muffler off to see the damage. I had a feeling tho!
Looking at those transfer covers I don't think the cylinder is an original 350, more likely a 346/351/353 upgrade.
I'd be inclined to try & clean it up (especially if it's OEM). If you do & have success measure it carefully before ordering your piston as the after market ones are common in both 44.3mm & 45mm
I've seen it a couple of times but was never convinced the boot couldn't just be an aftermarket one of dubious quality
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