Wheel bearings on trailers...

[wdchuck]

When you guys trailer a load home, how often do you stop and check the temperature of your hubs, if at all?

The trailers that I have to use, missing any nameplates, so there is no info to start with for capacity, not sure how to figure out the exact capacity, so I've been conservative, load as correctly as I can, and am attentive to how the trailer is towing, how the tires appear to handle it, and if there is any splay, which usually indicates a heavy load.

I keep mine lubed up, and occasionally break down the assemblies to clean and repack, the grease is always a little dirty, but still plenty soft and slick, so my feeling is the bearings are protected. However, some trailers I've used have body temperature warm hubs, after 10 miles with a load, but no warmer after an additional 10 miles, and that's with fresh grease.

So, does that sound about right, they will warm up some, and that's normal?

Let me know your thoughts please.

Thanks.

 

[mga]

admittedly, i have over-loaded my trailer now and then, but i never checked the bearings afterwards.

once in a blue moon i might jack it up and check for play on the wheels. if i find any, i just tighten up the bearing.

 

[04ultra]

We use Synthetic Wheel Bearing Grease ........No idea what brand as it comes from a barrel at local Diesel shop....I get it in a clean coffee can....

 

[Rookie1]

Im a mechanic and must say that I neglect my and others trailers when it comes to maintnence. I guess I try to keep a certain amount of air pressure in tires then when loading if tires look low I figure thats enough wood. I kinda hate to post this but Im being honest.:greenchainsaw:

 

[Patrick62]

Neglected vehicles

Mechanics drive the most neglected vehicles. We don't have the time/inclination to maintain our own stuff!

As for paranoia over trailer bearings, here are my thoughts:

It is a "full floating" setup, very strong. You are likely to bend the axle, or blow out a tire before you are going to hurt the bearings. I might be inclined to repack a trailer about every 5 years....

Overloaded? You would be surprised what a 3500# axle with a 15" tire can carry if the speed is kept low.... way, WAY, WAY, overloaded.

-Pat

 

[mga]

Im a mechanic and must say that I neglect my and others trailers when it comes to maintnence. I guess I try to keep a certain amount of air pressure in tires then when loading if tires look low I figure thats enough wood. I kinda hate to post this but Im being honest.:greenchainsaw:

lol...that's my "gauge" too.

 

[gink595]

On my old snowmobile trailer I used to check the hubs and a normal warm to touch was fine, I had the bearing buddies on it so I could just pump fresh grease into it when ever and not have to pull down and repack, the trailer I use for my Bobcat and such has oil bathed bearings like a full floating truck axle I think that the way to go but much more expensive to buy.

 

[jeeptj19992001]

i find when they seize up it is time to replace them

 

[046]

wheel bearings on trailers are not much different than bearings on your truck.

however, trailer bearings and truck bearings can be used with completely different frequency.

trailers have a tendency to sit for years in between jobs. tires dry rot and bearings can dry out.

assuming your bearings has been repacked with fresh grease. I'd treat it the exact same way as your truck wheel bearings.

 

[Junkfxr]

I bought a 10k flatbed trailer in 2000. I have had well over 12K on it many times and have never pulled the bearings. I do check the hubs for heat after towing at anything over 50-60 mph and check for freeplay when I have to change a tire, but so far, so good. They'll all probably seize up at the same time next week now.

 

[wdchuck]

One trailer has a drop axle, cast iron, like from the rear end of an old minivan.

One trailer, tandem, looks to be from a camper, based on the pull out step. It too has drop type axles, but ones I've never seen before.

Then there is the 4-bolt pattern, itty bitty, tip/tilt trailer, probably from snowmobiles, that one, hubs welded to a square tube, it collapsed due to rust, so the whole thing is broken down now, and I'll make a new frame and weld on a new axle tube.

Different trailers, different configurations, nothing at all like a store bought trailer.

Thanks for the feedback so far....keep any tips coming.

 

[Blowncrewcab]

I Work for Timken Bearings, The main cause of bearing failure is heat, usually the main cause of heat is dried up grease "OR" Too Much grease. Grease is a great Maintainer of heat. Bearing buddys used incorrectly will fill the cavity between the inner and outer bearings with grease and it become a heat magnet. For driving around town and trips under 50-75 miles it's probably no big deal. If your going for a long haul of a few hundred miles an over packed hub can get hot enough to fail even with the best grease. It's Okay to just Pack the bearing cone assembly and install it without adding any more (like the bearing buddy does) a properly used bearing buddy just adds pressure and a small amount of grease (great for boat trailers because the pressure keeps the water out) synthetic grease is Good "BUT" It doesn't have any petroleum in it and the petrolium is what keeps the seals soft, without petroleum they can crack, especially if theres too much grease and they get hot. The bearings can probably carry more of a load than the axle can. Set the end play correctly. they do wear in some and should be rechecked at least once. they should last 200,000+ miles with proper care (No Heat)

 

[bigbadbob]

I pack an infared thermometer, quick walk around truck and trailer your done.

 

[wdchuck]

Blowncrewcab, thanks for the tip, many a repack on vehicles has seen the hub get over packed from what you are saying, my grease tubs will stretch much farther now.

Thermometer huh? that might be a little overkill in my situation, but certainly a useful tool.

 

[046]

thanks for the tips... have never heard of bearings failing from being over packed with grease.

I've always gone by: keep all your bearing surfaces wet with lubrication. if it goes dry... game over!

this goes especially for newer ball joints/u-joints made without grease zerts or anyway to service. when the factory grease goes dry... game over! vs using a grease needle to inject grease into joint... if done on regularly... joints now last life of the vehicle+

I Work for Timken Bearings, The main cause of bearing failure is heat, usually the main cause of heat is dried up grease "OR" Too Much grease. Grease is a great Maintainer of heat. Bearing buddys used incorrectly will fill the cavity between the inner and outer bearings with grease and it become a heat magnet. For driving around town and trips under 50-75 miles it's probably no big deal. If your going for a long haul of a few hundred miles an over packed hub can get hot enough to fail even with the best grease. It's Okay to just Pack the bearing cone assembly and install it without adding any more (like the bearing buddy does) a properly used bearing buddy just adds pressure and a small amount of grease (great for boat trailers because the pressure keeps the water out) synthetic grease is Good "BUT" It doesn't have any petroleum in it and the petrolium is what keeps the seals soft, without petroleum they can crack, especially if theres too much grease and they get hot. The bearings can probably carry more of a load than the axle can. Set the end play correctly. they do wear in some and should be rechecked at least once. they should last 200,000+ miles with proper care (No Heat)

 

[cjcocn]

Hubs will generally warm up a bit when used. If they get hot enough where you don't really want to put your hand on the hub (or leave it on the hub for more than a second) then that is trouble.

There are a few ways to get a general idea as to your axle ratings. Here are some general tips:

- size of axle: I believe that anything that is 2 3/4" inches or smaller in diameter is a 3500# or less axle. 5200# and up are at least 3".

- number of bolts: 5 bolts are less are usually found on axles with a 3500# or less rating. 6 bolts and up are found on 5200# and up axles.

Don't forget that your trailer can only be rated at the lowest component rating. That means that your trailer frame has to be able to carry a certain weight as do your axles, springs, and tires (both rim and rubber). For example, if you have 6000# axles, springs, and your trailer frame is beefy, but your tires are only rated for 1000#, then your trailer can only safely carry 4000# (this is with dual-axles) less the weight of the trailer.

There are slight variances between some trailer component manufacturers so the info that I posted is by no means being presented as 100% accurate. Instead, this is just my take on it as I have looked over many sites and read quite a bit of info during each of my trailer purchases/build considerations.

HTH

PS ... I haven't done this (yet?), but you may be able to measure up your bearings and see if you can match them up with replacement bearings. Once you do that, the weight capacity of the replacement bearings will tell you about your axles.

For your springs, count the number of springs and the length of them. Then go to the various trailer sites and try to find your springs by the measurements. That should get you the spring rating.

etc

etc

ONE MORE TIME .... this is being posted as general info only and PLEASE don't take this as gospel and overload that trailer based on my info!! In other words, please stay safe!

 

[TJ-Bill]

I don't want to talk about it..

I'll check after I get my wood thank you!

 

[wdchuck]

cjcocn, thanks for the tips, nice points of reference to go from, even if unofficial.

Time to get the tape measure out.

 

[Rookie1]

ONE MORE TIME .... this is being posted as general info only and PLEASE don't take this as gospel and overload that trailer based on my info!! In other words, please stay safe!

Nice disclaimer. Now when im broke down on side of interstate with shot bearings I cant tell Highway Patrol that you said I could load trailer that full.:monkey:

 

[cjcocn]

Nice disclaimer. Now when im broke down on side of interstate with shot bearings I cant tell Highway Patrol that you said I could load trailer that full.:monkey:

LOL ... well you can try, but I don't think it will carry too much weight.

I just wanted that clear because I am not an experienced "trailer guy" beyond the ones that own or have owned (and the reading that I did prior to my purchases). I still regularly visit some trailer forums (just like I always check out trailers that I see even though I am not currently "needing" one) and try to pay attention to what other trailer owners post up about their experiences so that I may continue to learn.