The title basically says it. At what size wood is it worth it to use a saw such as an 066 or husky 2100, over a 60cc saw. I am happy with my 034, but find my self having an unstoppable attraction to the husqvarna 2100cd. In my area, they go for between $350-$500, so i could potentially afford it. I am sure i dont need it, but cant stop wanting it.... This is the most expensive free forum i have ever been on.....
when is a BIG saw (100cc) worthwile
- Thread starter IEL
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
In my experience, an 066/395-class saw becomes necessary when you're routinely burying a 32" bar in hardwood. If you have any need to regularly run a bar this size or larger, you need a bigger saw. A 100cc+ saw (3120, 084, 088/880) is helpful when pulling a LONG bar is required, say 40"+. A saw of the 066/395 size or larger can be helpful if you're cutting up larger diameter firewood, since that's a lot more cutting - every 16-20" - compared to logging where you're processing stuff into 8' or longer lengths, making fewer cuts.
I've owned those big saws before and ended up selling them off. They just didn't make sense for the sort of cutting I usually do. There is very little that I cannot get done with a Dolmar 7900, Husqvarna 272, or Stihl 044, and the sawsare a lot lighter and more nimble. And with bore cutting and wedges, you can still handle felling the occasional really large tree just fine. I own no 60cc-class saws as they don't fit into my line up; if I don't need the 70-80cc machines, the work gets done with a lively 50cc with 16" of 3/8" chain.
There is a tendency on this site, and elsewhere on the interwebs, to fall into the belief that big trees require big powerheads with long bars. This is not always true. Sure, big powerheads and long bars are nifty and give you bragging rights in certain circles, but honestly, if you think back over the course of a year, how many huge trees did you drop that required this sort of kit? How many times did you really *need* a bar >28"? Odds are not that often.
I've owned those big saws before and ended up selling them off. They just didn't make sense for the sort of cutting I usually do. There is very little that I cannot get done with a Dolmar 7900, Husqvarna 272, or Stihl 044, and the sawsare a lot lighter and more nimble. And with bore cutting and wedges, you can still handle felling the occasional really large tree just fine. I own no 60cc-class saws as they don't fit into my line up; if I don't need the 70-80cc machines, the work gets done with a lively 50cc with 16" of 3/8" chain.
There is a tendency on this site, and elsewhere on the interwebs, to fall into the belief that big trees require big powerheads with long bars. This is not always true. Sure, big powerheads and long bars are nifty and give you bragging rights in certain circles, but honestly, if you think back over the course of a year, how many huge trees did you drop that required this sort of kit? How many times did you really *need* a bar >28"? Odds are not that often.
half_full
ArboristSite Guru
I'm right there with you on the 2100CD. I've been watching for them for a few months. I wouldn't mind a 390/394/395 but my intention is to get a 32ish inch bar and use this about twice a year on the occasional big stuff.
Mostly just for kicks, I know.
But I figure an old saw sitting will maintain value if cared for. A new saw sitting loses value for a while. Parts availability,,, whole nother story.
Mostly just for kicks, I know.
But I figure an old saw sitting will maintain value if cared for. A new saw sitting loses value for a while. Parts availability,,, whole nother story.
Tazfreak
ArboristSite Member
Hi, had a 2100 for years for big wood ,great saw.Lotsa folk here use 100cc + saws for blocking firewood. eg. my SD166 set up with 25 inch bar bucking hardwood is so quick on big stuff,then if u swap back to a 70cc saw with same size bar,70cc feels like a toy it,s too slow to cut commercial quantities of hardwood.A bit extreme but some use 084s & 20 inch bars to block hardwood ,real quick set up.Horses for courses i say. If u can afford a big saw in ur collection go for it,u won,t be sorry.:msp_thumbsup::chainsawguy:
landroverbill
ArboristSite Member
Might be nice to have a big one for milling big slabs. My 385xp is a little small.
RandyMac
Stiff Member
Go six cubes and fear no evil.
Zombiechopper
Addicted to ArboristSite
In MY opinion....
In hardwood, 75cc (372XPW/MS460) is good to 28" bar. Longer bar than that and you will be happier with 90cc.
But, a ported 395 with a 20" bar and a tall rim will give you big wood if you know what I'm sayin...
In hardwood, 75cc (372XPW/MS460) is good to 28" bar. Longer bar than that and you will be happier with 90cc.
But, a ported 395 with a 20" bar and a tall rim will give you big wood if you know what I'm sayin...
OLD MAN GRINDER
ArboristSite Operative
Ductape
Addicted to ArboristSite
I'll be the first to admit I only need six cubes a few times per year, but boy it is handy to have around. For 400 or so for a nice used one....... why not ??
Chainsaw milling is another thing I have am interested in. However, with family connections in woodmizer, i could get such a good deal on a bandmill, it just isnt worth it to do chainsaw milling. I think I will keep my eye out for a big saw, I am quite liking both the 2100cd, and 066. If i find a good runner in the $300 range, i might go for it. It feels weird to be wanting a husky, with my love of stihl.
Go six cubes and fear no evil.
What model is that? I am sad to say I have never even picked up a mac..
timberland ts
ArboristSite Operative
I have a 25" and 32" for my 660 use it for anything over 20"hardwood. Have a 36" and 48" for my 084. Use it mostly for the big ugly butt logs and if i have to cut up any thing over 30". If you let the saw do the work it makes life alot easier. If you every run a big dog with some. 404 in big wood youll wonder why you didnt do it before.
RandyMac
Stiff Member
watsonr
Addicted to ArboristSite
- Joined
- Jan 3, 2010
- Messages
- 7,088
- Reaction score
- 2,130
Running a BIG saw in BIG wood or not so big wood will put a smile on your face....... nobody could slap off!
grantwolland
ArboristSite Operative
Efficiency is key!
Sure you could use a 24-28 inch bar on a 70cc saw to buck a 30"+ trunk of hardwoods by cutting from both sides but i like the fact that i can do it in one cut...plus when i was cutting a big mulberry at a buddies house part of the trunk was maybe 20" and a buddy was using his ms290 with 20" bar on one end and me with my ported 2100CD with a 32" bar on the other end and I was making 3 maybe 4 cuts to his one. Needless to say i got suckered into bucking the majority of the trunk!
Sure you could use a 24-28 inch bar on a 70cc saw to buck a 30"+ trunk of hardwoods by cutting from both sides but i like the fact that i can do it in one cut...plus when i was cutting a big mulberry at a buddies house part of the trunk was maybe 20" and a buddy was using his ms290 with 20" bar on one end and me with my ported 2100CD with a 32" bar on the other end and I was making 3 maybe 4 cuts to his one. Needless to say i got suckered into bucking the majority of the trunk!
RandyMac
Stiff Member
Good deal Grant, show the wieners a real chainsaw.
I had a 1100CD, I thought it was a good saw.
Traded it for a 550, 99cc.
I had a 1100CD, I thought it was a good saw.
Traded it for a 550, 99cc.
Twindad
ArboristSite Operative
:agree2:
Saturday's firewood:
SP125C (32", .404 8 pin) (tree felled by tree service; bucked by me)
Same saw (tree felled and bucked by me - 6'2" at the cut; landowner on tractor)
Ron
View attachment 281702View attachment 281703View attachment 281704View attachment 281705View attachment 281706
RandyMac
Stiff Member
Similar threads
