Any special tips or tricks to it? I have the file and a dull blade (another well on its way). I just haven't tried yet.
I'm assuming just keeping the angles right, gentle strokes, etc.... just like any other sharpening.
I ruined the first one I tryed to sharpen. My family owned a tool and die shop and I made and sharpened tools for years from the time I was 14 tell around 21. So I wasn't intimidated by my first failure. It's easy to say just follow the angles, but it takes practice to get a smooth even stroke on the whole cutting edge. It's very easy to get compounded angles if it hits at the top before the bottom of the tooth. Or the front before the back of the tooth. Just like a chainsaw you want to take the same amount of strokes on each tooth. The top ones are critical and the hardest I think, but only need a stroke or two.
A vise helps a lot but I do mine while sitting watching t.v. or on the way to the job in the truck, Those little feather files chip easy too, but will last a lot time. Make sure to clean the blade good or sap will clog up the file.
I can't say a resharped one is as good as a new factory one, but if done right, there way better then a dull one.
I have several scars to prove how sharp I get them. It's easy to under estimate how dangerous they can be, they slice through flesh like butter.
The saw I've used for the last year I broke the tip off, I have a replacement, but its still cutting so good I haven't replaced it yet. I do a lot of dead wooding in oaks with mine. Lots of times on dicey removals I might finish the cut with my hand saw so I'll have more control. On smaller white firs and monkey puzzle trees all it takes is a stroke or two and you can just brake the branch. Makes for a quick limbing job.
There are times I wish I had a finer toothed saw for makeing smooth cuts on small stuff though.
