Which log splitter should I get?

[half]

filter position

I don't know, but to me it makes sense to put it there. You don't know what is going into the tank, there could be rust flakes or something that fell down the fill hole that could ruin your pump or valve. Putting the filter after the pump I think would be disastrous, and a very expensive design flaw. But again I am no engineer, so I can't say for sure where the filter should be.

Most hydraulic systems I have worked on have a big strainer inside the tank to catch the bigger stuff and a fine filter on the return side of the valvebank. Some of the bigger systems have the strainer, a suction filter, and a return filter.But a real suction filter is big bucks. Anyway your filler should have a dirt trap inside to take the big stuff out of the oil. Most people would not be filling their splitters all that often, so the chance of getting rust ect in would be rear except if your oil container or pourer was dirty.The filter on the return side stops any nastys getting into the tank, and being sucked up and fed around the system again doing damage

 

[Tazfreak]

The cost of building a splitter depends on your skill and the cost of the components. If all new components are used the cost will be about $1000 for a basic splitter. If you can scronge up good used parts the cost will drop somewhat.

Nobody has asked about motor, pump upgrades to make store bought splitters much faster for their chosen tonnage ??? ie ,to give a 22 ton model say a 6 second in,out cycle time.My h/made HD splitter has a6 second cycle time but i designed it for commercial production not domestic use.I need speed as well as tonnage to be a competitive firewood seller.If cycle time is not an issue go with a store bought splitter but ask ,maybe u can upgrade motor,pump options to make whatever u choose much faster.Maybe companies don,t offer speed upgrades for fear of legal problems.ie.operators harming themselves.My 2 cents.opcorn::chainsawguy: