Which saw to get?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

daddy

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Mar 7, 2010
Messages
207
Reaction score
298
Location
PA
I am looking to replace an ms-170 that could not stand up to my firewood routine. I don't cut every day, maybe not even for a month or two, but when I get wood, I might run a gallon of gas thru the saw. I have a big saw, but would rather cut with the lighter one as much as I can. I don't have much free time, so when I get a day to cut, I want to make it count. The lighter saw lets me work longer.
In any case, the 170 did what I needed it to do, but was unreliable. (2 or 3 carbs, oiler problems etc.)
So, I am looking at the MS 192-T, and the echo CS 303T.
I am open to any other options as well, but keep in mind that the 7 lb. weight is very important to me for this saw. I already have a 290 that runs great for the bigger wood.
I need it to be light, and run tank after tank of fuel without crapping out on me. And as long as it cuts reasonably well with sharp chains it will work.
Any and all advice is appreciated.
 
A 192t with a muffler mod and timing advance is an awesome pruning saw, wouldn't want to do much full bar cutting though
 
Forget the 192T...that ain't no firewood saw...I got one...it's a pruning and fallen limbs saw.

Is the echo 303T a top-handle too..?? - - Dude..you're going down the wrong road.

Go to a dealer and use one of their demonstration models...can't do that at a big box store.

Then you will know weight and power and get an idea of the power / weight combination you want / need.

J2F
 
I know that you mentioned weight is a big concern, but the ms241c is another option. Yea it may weigh a few pounds more, but its a "pro" grade saw that will be more durable in a sense and has double the power. This saw is very impressive outta the box. The $550 price tag is not appealing though.
 
Have you used a tophandle enough to know you'll like the ergonomics for your purposes?

What part of the Ms170 didn't hold up? The working parts of a 192 are similar to a 170.

"...keep in mind that the 7 lb wt is very important to me..." That Really limits your options.

If you can tolerate a ~9 lb saw, and if you can find a clean example of an older Dolmar PS-401 or a Makita dCs401, they are light and tough.
 
another vote for the 241cm. If you like quality tools, you should consider it. Cost is a little steep initially, but once you get one in the hand... you will appreciate it.
 
Save a bunch of bux on a light and powerful saw: RedMax GZ4000 or Dolmar PS-421. The RedMax is a "strato". It's my goto saw for working down a tree crown, and will over-achieve some with its 18" bar. Gets a lot done before calling in the heavy artillery. Great fuel endurance too- about :45 on a tank.

Had the chance to try a 421 Dolmar recently. Very pleasantly surprised- excellent power & maneuverability. Except for having the GZ4000, might have taken it home. Both saws have very good A-V. Either can be had for ~$320.

A budget option would be a refurb Husqy 435 (40 cc) from VMInnovations dot com. $175 right now, to your door. Order of magnitude better performance than a 170. Strato, nice zippy lightweight.
 
Thanks for the input so far. Need to do some research as I am not familiar with some of the suggestions. I am not looking for a top handle saw, it just that what I want seems to be available in that configuration. I'm sure I could learn to run one just fine.
 
Top handles are far more dangerous if used one handed, they are good though
 
I am looking to replace an ms-170 that could not stand up to my firewood routine. I don't cut every day, maybe not even for a month or two, but when I get wood, I might run a gallon of gas thru the saw. I have a big saw, but would rather cut with the lighter one as much as I can. I don't have much free time, so when I get a day to cut, I want to make it count. The lighter saw lets me work longer.
In any case, the 170 did what I needed it to do, but was unreliable. (2 or 3 carbs, oiler problems etc.)
So, I am looking at the MS 192-T, and the echo CS 303T.
I am open to any other options as well, but keep in mind that the 7 lb. weight is very important to me for this saw. I already have a 290 that runs great for the bigger wood.
I need it to be light, and run tank after tank of fuel without crapping out on me. And as long as it cuts reasonably well with sharp chains it will work.
Any and all advice is appreciated.


Everything you mention is pure crap - sorry to say so. Finding a functional saw within your 7 lbs spec just is not doable!
 
Have you used a tophandle enough to know you'll like the ergonomics for your purposes?

What part of the Ms170 didn't hold up? The working parts of a 192 are similar to a 170.

"...keep in mind that the 7 lb wt is very important to me..." That Really limits your options.

If you can tolerate a ~9 lb saw, and if you can find a clean example of an older Dolmar PS-401 or a Makita dCs401, they are light and tough.

There is some time since they were made though, and they are heavier than what he asked for. Along with the 339xp and the MS200 (not 200T), they likely are as close to his specs as you can get, and still get a decent saw.

The 339xp may still be availiable new (not sure), but the others surely aren't.

A common failiure with such small saws are the rather small carbs they come with, that much more often fail than larger ones - so you aren't safe even though they are rated as pro saws.
 
CTYank has it right - if you want a light saw with some guts get a GZ4000. They do benefit from a mild muffler mod too.
 
Everything you mention is pure crap - sorry to say so. Finding a functional saw within your 7 lbs spec just is not doable!

I got a good chuckle as I read your response. I appreciate the candor though. The fact is that something about the ms-170 always seemed too good to be true. Only $179.00. Super light. Stihl name... I put a 12" polesaw bar on mine, and it cut well enough for me, but just didn't last. In economic terms, it doesn't owe me anything. I heated my house for years with wood it cut, and I was hoping to replace it with a pro version of the same style. I may need to re-think my requirements. I guess i'll start looking at heavier saws.
 
Dont get too hung up on a brand name. There are many good semi pro saws out there that will meet your needs. As an example, here is a true "wolf in sheeps clothing". I got this saw for free and I hadn't refined my taste in saws yet (new member at the time) so it was easy to throw it on the chopping block to try out this new fad called "porting". This is the very first saw Randy (Mastermind) did for me. I was instantly hooked.

It's a Echo CS 520 which I suppose is a semi-pro saw. It is a clamshell saw. Lighter than a 346 in my hands. There is a build thread on here of it. Randy called it a "346 killer". No it is no 346 or 261cm........ but it would stand toe to toe with them. 3 cuts in 23 seconds.

 
The more research I do, the more confused I get...

Opinions on the Jonsered CS 2139T? Four yr warranty if I buy some pre-mix gas. Recommended for full time forestry use.

How 'bout the Stihl MS150 TCE? I didn't even know this one existed till this evening. Pro version of my old ms-170. Seems like what I am after.

Just don't want to throw money away. Maybe I should buck up, get a 201, and be done with it.
 
I love my husky 346 xp and husky 550xp. I consider those small saws, and if I couldn't at least handle an 11# er I would consider giving up cutting all together..:popcorn:
 
Thanks for the input ash man. I hadn't considered not heating my house. :dizzy:
 
@daddy ,

As you can tell there is a obvious tendency to negate your requirements and recomend what everybody believes they need! This is typical of threads like this and the comments from sawtroll are very easy to summerize => Husqvarna is the only manufacturer out there good enough and then only the pro line.

So I will try to add my beliefs.

Your requirements are light, dependable and low amount of use(= a few days a year). You have a big saw (the 290 and don't worry everbody, especially sawtroll, is going to tell you that, contrary to your experience, this saw is not able to cut wood! :laugh:) so you want the lower spectrum taken care of. I presume you also have a budget that is surely shared with your avatar! Nice kid btw but you should be ashamed to put only a mobile phone pic and not a real camera picture in here!

So if we can try to summerize:

1. Any of the major manufactureres will make you happy. These would be DOLMAR=MAKITA, ECHO=SHINDAIWA, EFCO=OLEO MAC, HUSQVARNA=JONSERED=RED MAX=ZENOAH(=MC CULLOCH=PARTNER the homeowner line), HITACHI=TANAKA, SOLO and STIHL. I am sure I forgot some but this is a quick overview.

2. You donot need any pro saw what so ever, because your use is so minimal you will invest a lot of money for very little use. And the time savings in cutting speed are minimal and for a homeowner completely irrelevant! A sharp chain and technique will always win the day irrelevant of manufacturer or saw class!

3. 30-40 cc saw is what you are looking for. Any of the above mentioned manufacturers will make you happy. Just look at their products online or at your regional store and choose what you like. What I like to look for is often one housing is made for a range (30-40cc) of saws from one manufacturer. I like to buy the strongest out of the line up. An example would be the Dolmar PS32 and PS35. The PS35 being stronger at the same weight would be my choice.

4. Usually you can get very good deals from lesser known brands (just exclude Stihl and Husqvarna from the above list)

5. If you want, as a homeowner, a one saw plan (= one saw is enough) then I would recomend the stronger 40-50cc saws. One of the prime examples would be the dolmar 421, only 42 cc but behaves like 50 and built like a pro saw made for the ambitious homeowner at a unbelivable price. But there many examples of good saws out there.

6. Generally it is better to buy from a small engine/chainsaw store, usually the best is a mom&paps store, they know their equipment and usually can help you out very well. After buying a saw it is often recomended that the carburator of the saw should be set correctly (this can be done by any small engine/chainsaw mechanic). Many also recomend that the final carb settings should be checked after 10-20 refills.

7. Chainsaws are usually classified by the manufacturer in three types a.Homeowner, b.Farmer/SemiPro and c.Pro saws. Type a & b is more than enough for your needs. The differences between manufacturers in the same class are minimal at best. Further what type of engine (conventional two stroke, strato or whatever) is completely irrelevant for a homeuser.I would look more in details like aluminum oil pump. etc. The homeowner, farmer class of saws will be mainly out of plastic. But will still be more than enough for your needs!

8. If you cut close to home an electric saw might be an option. They are in the same powerrange to a 30-40cc gas saw and much more economical.This I would also only get from a major manufacturer and not any no name brand!

Just look through the recomendations above and below and sieve your requirements out.

good luck!

7
 
Daddy I used to supplement my geothermal heat with a wood burner inside the house and a 025 and 029 super worked OK for the 4-5 cords I was burning a year. Now I heat my jot water, house, and an out building with an owb that uses way more wood, and that's when I switched to pro saws that have a better power to weight ratio. My earlier post wasn't meant to be a joke, especially for bucking firewood you should be able to handle a 10-11 # saw, or you might hurt yourself. I also liked my 025, but a new one will set you back about as much as a good used 026 or 346/550xp.
 
Back
Top