I've done it both ways, but was wondering from the pro's which way is better. 2 years ago, the wood was stacked, which i allways do, and tarped and it looked great. Now, last year i had it stacked, but not tarped and it looked weathered which know will happen and don't really care about. I was wondering which way is better or will dry better. Tarped ? or Untarped? The only part that was tarped was the top 1/4 of the wood. Does wood dry faster when its rained on, dried, then rained on again? or just kept dry for x amount of months? The wood dosnt get stored in the sun either. (not by choice) Also, what is a good amount of time to let the wood season? I plan on splitting now, hopefully be done by end of february. If i sell in November, will that be enough of seasoning time? I'm from Jersey. It will all be hardwoods. Mainly Oak/Maple. I split and sell about 30 cords a year. THanks for your time. There's ton's of great info on this site!
Which way to store firewood?
- Thread starter Petr51488
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I have my tarps on Oct-May, which is the rainy season. Tarps off through summer. You are doing it right, tarp the top to keep the water out, sides open to allow ventilation. The reason I take the tarps off is that they can trap moisture and that can lead to rotting of the wood.
If I remember correctly, the regulations in California are 6 weeks drying time to be called "seasoned"?? Feb through Nov is plenty of time to season the wood, even if it is in the shade. The wood lots around here don't season the wood that long, you will have some happy customers
Dok
If I remember correctly, the regulations in California are 6 weeks drying time to be called "seasoned"?? Feb through Nov is plenty of time to season the wood, even if it is in the shade. The wood lots around here don't season the wood that long, you will have some happy customers
Dok
smokechase II
Addicted to ArboristSite
correct
I agree with Dok.
Also place some old lumber along the ground to keep the bottom dry.
If you get wet weather from one direction have some extended 'tarpage' on that side.
I agree with Dok.
Also place some old lumber along the ground to keep the bottom dry.
If you get wet weather from one direction have some extended 'tarpage' on that side.
Cover the top, you won't get wood to dry in New England otherwise.
I prefer to pile it up green and let it uncovered. Then after a long hot dry spell of weather I go check my wood piles. When I find wood that is getting nice and dry, then I just cover those sections so they don't get soaked in the rain in the fall. I store 12 face cords in my basement all summer too, so its always really dry!
Thanks for all the info guys!
Yep, i have pallets on the ground where the air can vent through.
Yep, i have pallets on the ground where the air can vent through.
We get too much rain/snow here to leave things uncovered.
I stack split wood on oak pallets I get for free. Cover, top only, with discarded lumber covers I get from local lumber yard, also for free. My stacks are 7 ft tall and only two racks wide to give plenty of air circulation.
I stack split wood on oak pallets I get for free. Cover, top only, with discarded lumber covers I get from local lumber yard, also for free. My stacks are 7 ft tall and only two racks wide to give plenty of air circulation.
I also get my things for free. The only thing i pay for is the tarp. My rows are also about 7-8 feet high by 4 rows. I'm just running a little late this year with splitting wood and hoped that the wood would dry by november. From the replies it will if it's tarped.
Crisscross Stacking
The stacking method itself also helps the drying process. I Crisscross stack the wood every six feet, smillar to this:
Note that this also allows a vertical stack on the ends without requiring any stakes or supports whatsoever. Seasoning time varies substantially by species. For example, oak, locust, hackberry, and mulberry require a full year of drying. Maple, birch, linden, and cottonwood will dry in three months. Elm dries in six months. And, split wood dries half again faster than unsplit.
Another variable is when you cut the wood. If cut in mid- to late spring after the tree is leafed out, add at least an extra three or four months for air drying. If cut now or late fall, the sap has retreated and the wood will dry faster. The wood shown above was red oak and cut last week. It may be ready for burning by October.
The stacking method itself also helps the drying process. I Crisscross stack the wood every six feet, smillar to this:
Note that this also allows a vertical stack on the ends without requiring any stakes or supports whatsoever. Seasoning time varies substantially by species. For example, oak, locust, hackberry, and mulberry require a full year of drying. Maple, birch, linden, and cottonwood will dry in three months. Elm dries in six months. And, split wood dries half again faster than unsplit.
Another variable is when you cut the wood. If cut in mid- to late spring after the tree is leafed out, add at least an extra three or four months for air drying. If cut now or late fall, the sap has retreated and the wood will dry faster. The wood shown above was red oak and cut last week. It may be ready for burning by October.
Festus Haggen
ArboristSite Operative
Mine all goes on pallets, 2 rows to a pallet (I cut firewood at 24"). 7' T-posts at the ends, cheap poly rope tied between them about 2.5 feet up, weight of wood tensions the rope and pulls the posts in. I stack about 6' high, never had a problem with it falling over, long as the pallets are relatively level. I cut and split in the woods, make stacks where it's convenient. At the end of the summer, I collect it all (lighter then) and haul it home to stack in the "big pile" in the driveway. Always covered top-only, allows air to flow. I keep about 1 cord in the basement at a time, little extra dry time before I burn it. Tried putting wood in the garage, it had been down for 2 years (logging tops) and it still went moldy/shroomy in the garage, which is pretty well vented.
Cutting in the winter while the sap is down really helps the wood be dry by the next winter. Maple here always takes a minimum of 12 months, I let it go for 2 years before I burn it.
I cut down to maybe wrist-sized limbs, the main trunk/limbs get split just small enough to get through the door on the furnace. A mix of sizes is real handy when packing the stove.
Cutting in the winter while the sap is down really helps the wood be dry by the next winter. Maple here always takes a minimum of 12 months, I let it go for 2 years before I burn it.
I cut down to maybe wrist-sized limbs, the main trunk/limbs get split just small enough to get through the door on the furnace. A mix of sizes is real handy when packing the stove.
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Stack Stabilizing
Seems like I never have enough kindling. I generally stack 8' high and two or three rows abreast. Crisscross stacking helps stabilize the pile on both the ends and the center. I think it also improves air circulation.
I always save a few small, short kindling sticks and spitter chips as pile stabiizers. These I ram into voids and that tightens up the stack. As you cabn see, I take my time stacking my firewood. That's just as important as any other part of the entire wood-burning process.
Yep. I use the small stuff for kindling and for a little packing around the "all nighter" when I hit the hay. The smaller pieces help heat up the big log and cook it.Holy cow, you cut right down to 1 inch or smaller wood!
If I piled mine that high, it'd tip over when the ground thaws out in the spring!
Seems like I never have enough kindling. I generally stack 8' high and two or three rows abreast. Crisscross stacking helps stabilize the pile on both the ends and the center. I think it also improves air circulation.
I always save a few small, short kindling sticks and spitter chips as pile stabiizers. These I ram into voids and that tightens up the stack. As you cabn see, I take my time stacking my firewood. That's just as important as any other part of the entire wood-burning process.
Mkarlson
ArboristSite Operative
We have a retired guy that works part-time for us in the spring and fall. We cut wood together once in a while and its a perfect partnership. I cut larger trees and stop at about wrist size . He starts at about thigh size working down to pinky. Not much left of a tree when we are done. I often joke with him telling him I left the Richardwood( his name is Richard) at such and such a place and that he better go get it.
Europeans have too much time on their hands. I would never waste my time trying to do that. It sounds like it will topple over easier than the american way lol
Nuzzy
Trail Gnome
There are some pics floating around here of it. General consensus is that it dries about the same.
**Edit**
http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=59534&d=1194541206
Search for "Holz Hausen"
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There are some pics floating around here of it. General consensus is that it dries about the same.
**Edit**
http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=59534&d=1194541206
Search for "Holz Hausen"
Thats pretty wierd..
Vibes
Addicted to ArboristSite
I just make a big pile of what I get. No stacking. I cover it at the beginning of August. I make my piles according to the month I get it. I stack it latest in the back, oldest in the front.
I try to season all my wood for 2 years, but that doesn't always happen. I try to save my best wood for the coldest weeks like what were about to get this weekend. I have a nice pile of locust to break into for this coldsnap.
I try to season all my wood for 2 years, but that doesn't always happen. I try to save my best wood for the coldest weeks like what were about to get this weekend. I have a nice pile of locust to break into for this coldsnap.
Holy cow, you cut right down to 1 inch or smaller wood!
If I piled mine that high, it'd tip over when the ground thaws out in the spring!
Or fall over in the first earthquake :biggrinbounce2:
Nothing wrong with cutting the little stuff, it burns great. Just takes longer to cut it.
Dok
ak4195
ArboristSite Operative
Around here(southcentral alaska) we have a mix of primarily birch with spruce.I prefer to split my wood in the winter.i dont like to let my birch logs sit for more than a year before at least bucking them.i like to season/dry for 2 yrs,so Im always thinking several years ahead.If we get a long stretch of stable sunny weather Ill pull the tarp back,as we should get a stable SW wind in the summer.I have runners on the ground to keep the fruits of my labors from rotting from ground moisture.Downed trees/logs will rot surprisingly quick without protection from moisture,one way or the other.I like to square up the ends of the stacks with the crisscross method,maximize product in a given space.
If the winter weather is warmish(bobbling around 30) but no precipitation,Ill pull the tarps back as well,youd be surprised how much moisture is being thrown off.Youll see it in the morning(assuming below freezing nights) on the inside of your tarps.
ak4195
If the winter weather is warmish(bobbling around 30) but no precipitation,Ill pull the tarps back as well,youd be surprised how much moisture is being thrown off.Youll see it in the morning(assuming below freezing nights) on the inside of your tarps.
ak4195
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