why all the short bars on saws in this site ?

[ChrisF]

When you are standing next to an oak/maple/ash/birch/elm/popple waiting to be limbed and bucked, up to your nutz in snow (literally), you'll know why 20" is the most common logging bar around here.

Snow and ice change the game. You aren't walking to gracefully on ice covered timber with broad limbs, most limbing is standing on the ground.

Less cost, Less weight, less teeth to sharpen, less chance of throwing a chain, less chain to stick in the snow and hit rocks/dirt/ice with(hot chain can temper in the snow and ice), less bar and chain smaller area needs to be stamped down around the base of the tree to drop it (falling cuts are made low), cut fast in northern hardwoods coupled with a 70cc saw.

I am out of breath.

In short, weather conditions/terrain/type and size of timber dictate the bar you'll use.

This is what I've seen as true as well. That, combined with the fact that the trees don't get very thick (comparatively) in Norway means 20" of bar will do everything I need it to.

 

[Anthony_Va.]

all we have here in northwest ,mostly doug fir ,hemlock and alder and maple ,cant say ive ever limbed or cut oak yet ,woods pretty soft here so longer bars dont lose power like in a harder wood ,plus gabe prolly laugh me if saw little bar on my saw

Who's Gabe? R U an Axeman? :hmm3grin2orange:

You're gonna have to post pics to prove that.

 

[KansasTom]

When the in-laws and I would cut, the 046 w/ the 25" bar would basically just set because it felt like you were luggin around a whole lot of saw. We would use the 029, 039 and the 021 to do most of the work. Got a 20" bar for the 046 and man what a difference. Its now pretty much my go-to saw lately if I can get to it first. Now the 039 is kinda the odd man out.

 

[komatsuvarna]

Who's Gabe? R U an Axeman? :hmm3grin2orange:

You're gonna have to post pics to prove that.

I caught that too, and decided to roll my pants legs up.

 

[Trx250r180]

Who's Gabe? R U an Axeman? :hmm3grin2orange:

You're gonna have to post pics to prove that.

i went to school with gabe ,i know all the crew ,they buy parts from my salvage yard sometimes ,gabe stops in once and a while and bs with me he not like on the show thats all staged crap ,he actually real hard worker ,the film crews make him look bad in my opinion ,but he on tv not me so my hats off to em for his success

 

[promac850]

Yup to compensate for big wood.

Did you read the long post I made. It specificaly said there are bars for certain purposes. I.E. 20" is about the most needed for firewood cutting, while 36" or bigger is for felling trees, big trees.

My previous post was a joke implying you PNW loggers are equipped with small "twigs"... Jeez. It's not necessarily true.

I'm hoping you were oke: us, otherwise trouble looms...

 

[Cedarkerf]

Did you read the long post I made. It specificaly said there are bars for certain purposes. I.E. 20" is about the most needed for firewood cutting, while 36" or bigger is for felling trees, big trees.

My previous post was a joke implying you PNW loggers are equipped with small "twigs"... Jeez. It's not necessarily true.

I'm hoping you were oke: us, otherwise trouble looms...

:hmm3grin2orange: Buy the way Im not a logger just do side jobs for people

 

[woodyman]

When you are standing next to an oak/maple/ash/birch/elm/popple waiting to be limbed and bucked, up to your nutz in snow (literally), you'll know why 20" is the most common logging bar around here.

Snow and ice change the game. You aren't walking to gracefully on ice covered timber with broad limbs, most limbing is standing on the ground.

Less cost, Less weight, less teeth to sharpen, less chance of throwing a chain, less chain to stick in the snow and hit rocks/dirt/ice with(hot chain can temper in the snow and ice), less bar and chain smaller area needs to be stamped down around the base of the tree to drop it (falling cuts are made low), cut fast in northern hardwoods coupled with a 70cc saw.

I am out of breath.

In short, weather conditions/terrain/type and size of timber dictate the bar you'll use.

This is me last Sun. with my new 372xp with 20" pro-Lite bar in the snow & cold.Would not want a 28" for this.There is all kinds of stuff to trip on under that snow.

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[Jonsered2095]

Something people with short bars like to say.

Yes indeed. You could never cut a tree unless your bar is at least as long as it is wide. Besides, I could never handle anything bigger than my third leg! :blush:

 

[mdavlee]

Personally I like a 28-32" bar on everything. It is much easier on felling larger trees as in 40" or so. It also keeps you farther away from compressed twisted limbs in big oak and other large canopy trees.

 

[Cedarkerf]

Personally I like a 28-32" bar on everything. It is much easier on felling larger trees as in 40" or so. It also keeps you farther away from compressed twisted limbs in big oak and other large canopy trees.

I agree

A 120 foot side hilled doug fir can get a lotta energy loaded in it. I love the 32" also does work great on 40" + trees.

 

[mdavlee]

I used to cut everything with a 20" and a 25" occasionally until about 2 years ago when we cut a 40" pine at my old house. My BIL had a 32" stihl bar we used on my 044 I had at the time. After that I was sold on the longer bars. I'm hoping the new stihl light bars are stiffer than the oregon rw.

 

[thomas72]

i'd like to see you walk down a pin oak and limb it lol.

lol

 

[promac850]

:hmm3grin2orange: Buy the way Im not a logger just do side jobs for people

:hmm3grin2orange: By the way, I'm not a logger; I just do side jobs for people.

There, I corrected your grammatical errors. Now I can laugh...

Had to correct grammatical errors for proper reading and understanding of your post.

 

[homelitejim]

My fire wood cutting buddy's are always comparing the size of their bars. This should shut them up next year.
I'm going to have to buy a wider skidder.

 

[sawnami]

I guess I need to find a longer bar.:monkey:

<a href="http://s842.photobucket.com/albums/zz345/sawnami/?action=view&amp;current=IMG_1337.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i842.photobucket.com/albums/zz345/sawnami/IMG_1337.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

 

[2dogs]

Yes indeed. You could never cut a tree unless your bar is at least as long as it is wide. Besides, I could never handle anything bigger than my third leg! :blush:

Just curious here but let's say you had 3 or 4 large trees to cut down. They are snags in the 4' range. What would you use, saw and bar, to do this job?

 

[Jonsered2095]

Just curious here but let's say you had 3 or 4 large trees to cut down. They are snags in the 4' range. What would you use, saw and bar, to do this job?

Depends. What's the catch?

 

[GoRving]

Some of us were born with short bars...:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[slowp]

I'm not a guy. Twinkle and Barbie have 28" bars. Look at the picture. We have hardwoods here in the PNW too. But not a lot go to the mill. Most of the guys run 32" bars on the job.

A long bar keeps your head away from a spring loaded alder or vine maple or ___________fill in the blank.

Many times it is best to be able to cut from one side of the tree--on a cow face of a hill.

The production cutters limb by walking on the tree, making ONE pass down it and hopping off to buck it into the correct lengths. Since we only have real live fallers on steep ground anymore, it is to their advantage to be able to buck the logs from the UPHILL side only.

We also use them just to give the non PNWers something to discuss.