Why we talk about burning dry wood

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Get a grip. Water vapor does not turn into creosote. The green wood put in on top of the hot fire will be dried in the extreme heat before it's burned. Creosote is made when a fire is allowed to slowy smolder. I burned nothing but green wood last year, and my chimney is fine. Cleaned the stove pipe 2 times, and it wasn't even bad. There's a reason the old timers always had a hot fire going; Less creosote.
You can build a dangerous amount of creosote with bone dry wood too if you don't burn it hot enough.
And last, I am not trying to convince anyone to do anything. Just sharing 40 years of keeping a fire going, lots of times with green wood.

In post#6 you said you put a chunk of"green"red oak on a hot fire.In post #14 You said you put a few sticks of green wood on.In post #23 you said you used green wood once or twice out of necessity. In this post you said you burned nothing but green wood last year. Kind of makes you wonder.
At 63 I am not an old,old timer,but I am pretty old. I put a fire in and it pretty much stays in until April,unless we get a couple really warm days.I burn what I consider to be a pretty warm fire. But I can not just let it go hot and leave it hot,I control it by the air and the amount of wood I put on it
 
Now - now Oldtimer. As I tell my 9 year old son, "That was rude!"

This is still a free country. Everyone is entitled to their own opinion and are free to do as they wish. But name calling, even if just implied as you have done, is low and uncalled for. There is no reason we can't all share our experiences and opinions on this forum and in some cases just agree to disagree. Passions will flare, but we can remain civilized at the same time.

I for one agree with the dry wood science and understand the physics involved. My background is in science and physics and I have a well above average understanding of Thermodynamics. So I will believe what I know to be true and you can believe whatever you think. I openly disagree with you yet hold no ill will against you. I wish you the best in your chosen method of heating with wood and sincerely hope nothing bad comes of it.
 
In post#6 you said you put a chunk of"green"red oak on a hot fire.In post #14 You said you put a few sticks of green wood on.In post #23 you said you used green wood once or twice out of necessity. In this post you said you burned nothing but green wood last year. Kind of makes you wonder.
At 63 I am not an old,old timer,but I am pretty old. I put a fire in and it pretty much stays in until April,unless we get a couple really warm days.I burn what I consider to be a pretty warm fire. But I can not just let it go hot and leave it hot,I control it by the air and the amount of wood I put on it

When I said once or twice, I was being sarcastic. Burned green wood as much as dry in my time.
When I said a few sticks, or a piece I was meaning as needed to go overnight or keep the green wood burning by allowing the water to cook off in the heat. It's why I said to put a piece in as soon as there's room for it.
Not trying to be difficult. Obviously, dry wood is the best wood.
I did burn green wood all last year, sad, since I am a logger. I had a bunch of dry stored up and sold it because I wanted the cash and I knew I could burn green and be OK. Not sweating in my undies, but OK. Persecuted the ash pretty heavily.
 
this last winter had plenty of seasoned oak to burn for the entire winter.
we had an extra cold winter in Tulsa and ended up burning about 4.5 cords.
used about 40% green oak by choice. had plenty of seasoned and green on hand.

most of the seasoned wood was burned early for small hot fires early season.
seasoned wood is used to get fire good and hot.
then green wood goes on using bottom red hot logs to get green logs up to temp.

from once fire gets good and hot. then if I want to JUCA will run nicely on green logs only.
proof of the pudding is what comes out your chimney. Almost no smoke with green logs at full tilt.
JUCA's internal angles increases draft speeds much like a forced air fan.
end result is a very HOT fire.

there are disadvantages of JUCA's open burn system. one is short burn times if you don't load large chunks of wood. loads of identical weight of wood will burn completely differently depending on how wood is in logs or smaller split wood. unless wood is over 18in diameter x 24in or approaching too large to handle. wood is not split but burned in log form to extend burn times.
 
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I say every year that I'm gonna get ahead and never do. I always end up cutting as I need.
The only good thing is that there is enough dead elm, ash, and other dead trees that are "seasoned on the stick" as I call it, to pretty much not have to burn much green.

My OWB doesn't seem to do as well as many others with green wood. I will burn green often enough due to having to cut something that has fallen in the creek or something. I just have to have some HOT burning stuff under it. Does work well in the spring and fall though to slow the fire down.
I will agree that it can in SOME wood burning set ups, Lengthen the burn time.

I will also say that it is a bit tiresome getting the "seasoned wood only" shoved down our throats like it's the gospel. Sure it's the better way to go for many reasons but I doubt God will strike us down for it.
 
I say every year that I'm gonna get ahead and never do. I always end up cutting as I need.
The only good thing is that there is enough dead elm, ash, and other dead trees that are "seasoned on the stick" as I call it, to pretty much not have to burn much green.

My OWB doesn't seem to do as well as many others with green wood. I will burn green often enough due to having to cut something that has fallen in the creek or something. I just have to have some HOT burning stuff under it. Does work well in the spring and fall though to slow the fire down.
I will agree that it can in SOME wood burning set ups, Lengthen the burn time.

I will also say that it is a bit tiresome getting the "seasoned wood only" shoved down our throats like it's the gospel. Sure it's the better way to go for many reasons but I doubt God will strike us down for it.

God will probably let you slide, but the EPA, and your local PCA will probably say otherwise.. ;)
 
dry wood indeed!!

Have you heard the comment I mix in green wood to get a longer burn time.
It may work that way but the btu's available drop off greatly with wetter wood. Here's a chart...

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...0_-0qS_IlYF1EjYTg&sig2=1akWnaNK_uovkJQzyRDQoA

Juca also has this link that explains HHV vs LHV which may help consumers to understand ratings when purchasing a new appliance.
The Amount of Energy in Wood

Here's another set of intel that's helpful.
In the laboratory it is possible to get a heat value of 8,660 Btu/lb from wood fuel. This "high heat value" is obtained only with perfectly dry wood with 0% moisture content and in an atmosphere of pure oxygen. For laboratory use this is a useful number handy for theoretical problem analysis. But for the practical world it is unrealistic.

When wood is alive and fresh it consists primarily of water, i.e. most of the weight is actually water. After being cut to length and stacked for a year or two the average moisture content generally drops to approximately 20%.

In the combustion process water is evaporated and the temperature is raised to flue gas temperature.

Condition of Wood Approximate Combustion Values
btu/lb kJ/kg kcal/kg
Wet 4,000 9,300 2,220
Dry 7,000 16,300 3,890
6.3 lbs dry wood = 1 Boiler Horse Power
11.6 lbs wet wood = 1 Boiler Horse Power
Moisture Content and Usable Energy
Moisture Content and Usable Energy
Moisture Content
% Energy by Volume Unit
% Energy per Weight Unit
%
0 (oven dry) 100 100
20 (air-dry) 97 81
50 (green) 92 62
100 (wet) 85 42
Note that

by volume wet wood has about 85% of the energy of oven-dry wood
by weight wet wood has less than half - 42% - of the energy of oven-dry wood
One weight unit of wood has enough energy to evaporate 6 weight units of water.

John has an excellent article here that every novice should read.
http://www.hrt.msu.edu/energy/Notebook/Burning_wood_may_offer_heat_savings_by_Bartok.pdf

Very well said crappie keith some people just dont get it
 
I'll bet if I dump a 1/2 gallon of water in the gas tank of my car that tank will last a LOT longer. Maybe I should save a pile of snowballs to throw in the boiler this winter too. Personally I don't even like seasoned wood to get any rain or snow before burning.
 
Green Mulberry Experience

I recall one of my good friends trying to burn green mulberry about four years ago. I told him not to do that. He said, "Forget it. My stove burns hot." He plugged his chimney three times during the winter. After that, he let it sit for a full year before he loaded it into the stove.

No more plugged chimney.
 
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