Get a grip. Water vapor does not turn into creosote. The green wood put in on top of the hot fire will be dried in the extreme heat before it's burned. Creosote is made when a fire is allowed to slowy smolder. I burned nothing but green wood last year, and my chimney is fine. Cleaned the stove pipe 2 times, and it wasn't even bad. There's a reason the old timers always had a hot fire going; Less creosote.
You can build a dangerous amount of creosote with bone dry wood too if you don't burn it hot enough.
And last, I am not trying to convince anyone to do anything. Just sharing 40 years of keeping a fire going, lots of times with green wood.
In post#6 you said you put a chunk of"green"red oak on a hot fire.In post #14 You said you put a few sticks of green wood on.In post #23 you said you used green wood once or twice out of necessity. In this post you said you burned nothing but green wood last year. Kind of makes you wonder.
At 63 I am not an old,old timer,but I am pretty old. I put a fire in and it pretty much stays in until April,unless we get a couple really warm days.I burn what I consider to be a pretty warm fire. But I can not just let it go hot and leave it hot,I control it by the air and the amount of wood I put on it
I cut 6 cords of mostly red oak back in Feb., is sitting in the shed. Still stinks! That will be used late this winter.
I say every year that I'm gonna get ahead and never do. I always end up cutting as I need.
The only good thing is that there is enough dead elm, ash, and other dead trees that are "seasoned on the stick" as I call it, to pretty much not have to burn much green.
My OWB doesn't seem to do as well as many others with green wood. I will burn green often enough due to having to cut something that has fallen in the creek or something. I just have to have some HOT burning stuff under it. Does work well in the spring and fall though to slow the fire down.
I will agree that it can in SOME wood burning set ups, Lengthen the burn time.
I will also say that it is a bit tiresome getting the "seasoned wood only" shoved down our throats like it's the gospel. Sure it's the better way to go for many reasons but I doubt God will strike us down for it.
Have you heard the comment I mix in green wood to get a longer burn time.
It may work that way but the btu's available drop off greatly with wetter wood. Here's a chart...
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...0_-0qS_IlYF1EjYTg&sig2=1akWnaNK_uovkJQzyRDQoA
Juca also has this link that explains HHV vs LHV which may help consumers to understand ratings when purchasing a new appliance.
The Amount of Energy in Wood
Here's another set of intel that's helpful.
In the laboratory it is possible to get a heat value of 8,660 Btu/lb from wood fuel. This "high heat value" is obtained only with perfectly dry wood with 0% moisture content and in an atmosphere of pure oxygen. For laboratory use this is a useful number handy for theoretical problem analysis. But for the practical world it is unrealistic.
When wood is alive and fresh it consists primarily of water, i.e. most of the weight is actually water. After being cut to length and stacked for a year or two the average moisture content generally drops to approximately 20%.
In the combustion process water is evaporated and the temperature is raised to flue gas temperature.
Condition of Wood Approximate Combustion Values
btu/lb kJ/kg kcal/kg
Wet 4,000 9,300 2,220
Dry 7,000 16,300 3,890
6.3 lbs dry wood = 1 Boiler Horse Power
11.6 lbs wet wood = 1 Boiler Horse Power
Moisture Content and Usable Energy
Moisture Content and Usable Energy
Moisture Content
% Energy by Volume Unit
% Energy per Weight Unit
%
0 (oven dry) 100 100
20 (air-dry) 97 81
50 (green) 92 62
100 (wet) 85 42
Note that
by volume wet wood has about 85% of the energy of oven-dry wood
by weight wet wood has less than half - 42% - of the energy of oven-dry wood
One weight unit of wood has enough energy to evaporate 6 weight units of water.
John has an excellent article here that every novice should read.
http://www.hrt.msu.edu/energy/Notebook/Burning_wood_may_offer_heat_savings_by_Bartok.pdf
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