Will an MS660 top end bolt straight onto an MS440?

[altair]

Just bought a Stihl MS440,very strong runner, but compression is down, using the pull cord test..as in sitting the saw on the ground and pulling the cord results in the pull cord coming up without the saw......yet it starts easily!

Will be buying a new Piston and cylinder kit, so got me wondering....have heard the MS660 P and C kit bolts straight on to the MS440, is this true?
If that was the case I'd go for the 660 top end..or am I looking for trouble? Would be going from 70cc to 90ishcc.

Don't want to lose the reliability, or overstress the bottom end...I want this saw to last a while. Not interested in porting etc, and here in NZ I don't think it gets done much anyway. Most I'd do would be to open the muffler a little.

Will be running a 26inch bar at most.

Any thoughts, experiences etc very much appreciated!

 

[deye223]

nope thats a 064 650 or both

 

[tlandrum]

the 660 will not fit,i can do you a ported "wicked work saw" kit and send it out to you to put that whipped 440 back to screamin.

 

[mdavlee]

I don't think it would be cost effective to do that. It would take machine work to accomplish it if the crankcase could accept it. You could do a 460 top end with a little bit of work and have a nice saw.

 

[altair]

Hi sorry I meant MS460

don't know where the hell I got MS660 from....so what is required to fit the MS460 topend, is it worth it for another 6cc?

 

[deye223]

more torque = yes

 

[FATGUY]

more torque = yes

hmmm, wouldn't it be an increase in HP and not torque? After all, stroke is staying the same...

 

[pioneerguy600]

don't know where the hell I got MS660 from....so what is required to fit the MS460 topend, is it worth it for another 6cc?

Very much so to us that have them.

 

[GBD]

A "bigbore" (52mm) 044 AM cylinder is another possibility. No machine work required, but you may want to port it to make its full potential.

 

[altair]

Okay, so is it a simple case of buying the MS460 P&C and bolting straight on? No modifying of anything required?

Thanks..sorry for all questions but this is my first "bigger" Stihl...have a newish 65cc Solo but it just will not pump enough bar oil...I know the Stihls do...so I can see myself becoming a Stihl supporter!

 

[altair]

Thanks for the big bore idea, but want to stay away from porting to keep things stock. Thank you though.

 

[FATGUY]

I hate to say it, but Stihl oilers can be a little miserly.

 

[mdavlee]

You will have to elongate the holes in the base just a little to get it to fit. There's several threads on here for the conversion.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Okay, so is it a simple case of buying the MS460 P&C and bolting straight on? No modifying of anything required?

Thanks..sorry for all questions but this is my first "bigger" Stihl...have a newish 65cc Solo but it just will not pump enough bar oil...I know the Stihls do...so I can see myself becoming a Stihl supporter!

It is not a simple bolt on, the holes in the base of the 046/MS460 are a little wider apart, you will need to move the holes inward on an X axis to make it fit the 044 base.

 

[CATDIESEL]

I hate to say it, but Stihl oilers can be a little miserly.

the newer the Stihl, the more stingy they are w/the oil. they are easy to remedy though.

 

[altair]

Okay, thanks guys for all replies! Think I'll stay with the standard 440 P&C, don't want to try changing anything as I'm not really set up to do it.

I'm sure a standard, well tuned 440 will pull a 25" bar& chain okay.

Cheers!

 

[deye223]

hmmm, wouldn't it be an increase in HP and not torque? After all, stroke is staying the same...

ok i'll say more GRUNT :msp_thumbup:

 

[fearofpavement]

OP, are you basing the need for cylinder work purely on how it feels when you pull on the starter rope? If so, you need a better diagnostic system before pulling the saw apart. Check the compression, pull the muffler for a visual check, etc. Your engine may be perfectly fine and your "repair" may just get you back to the start point.

 

[splitpost]

OP, are you basing the need for cylinder work purely on how it feels when you pull on the starter rope? If so, you need a better diagnostic system before pulling the saw apart. Check the compression, pull the muffler for a visual check, etc. Your engine may be perfectly fine and your "repair" may just get you back to the start point.

well said.

 

[woodgrenade]

the newer the Stihl, the more stingy they are w/the oil. they are easy to remedy though.

How so? Different internals or drilling the hole in the bar a tad larger?