Will the MS 251C be good for my needs?

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clydesdale6

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My younger brother, who is a chainsaw novice, needs a saw for around his house for tree maintenance, storm cleanup, and general light use. The dealer is recommending the 251 or 251C and is leaning towards the 251C. I just want to make sure there are no major issues with this model. Any thoughts?
Thank you
 
If he is not doing a bunch big wood that saw should work fine. I used a MS250 for years to cut firewood and no issues. I'd go with the 251 and not the c model. 16" bar with the picco chain.
 
My younger brother, who is a chainsaw novice, needs a saw for around his house for tree maintenance, storm cleanup, and general light use. The dealer is recommending the 251 or 251C and is leaning towards the 251C. I just want to make sure there are no major issues with this model. Any thoughts?
Thank you
Also not a fan of the "C" variants... added weight, added bulk, lost flexibility (bar flip) for no advantage. +1 on the 16" picco B&C. NOTE: this is NOT standard and he will have to ask the dealer to set it up this way. These normally come with 0.325 B&C.
 
For the same or less money, buy a better saw (way, way better): A Makita ea4300. Get THAT with the lopro 3/8" if you can.

My 420 Dolmar will kick the pants off an ms250. It has pro-construction and is smoooth. No comparison at all.

Yet the MS250 is a pretty good saw..
I forgot about that one
 
For the same or less money, buy a better saw (way, way better): A Makita ea4300. Get THAT with the lopro 3/8" if you can.

My 420 Dolmar will kick the pants off an ms250. It has pro-construction and is smoooth. No comparison at all.

Yet the MS250 is a pretty good saw..
I'll second and third the Makita/Dolmar ea4300/ps421. Great saw, more more poke than the stihl, better build etc.

Having said that the 251 will probs do.

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I think he is going to go with the local Stihl dealer because he needs the dealer support. So, you guys say go with the 251 over the 251c with the tool less chain adjuster? That chain adjuster does have me concerned as something that could go wrong. Thoughts? Thanks again.
 
I’d actually go with the 250 over the 251 if the dealer has one. Either way do not go with the tool less chain tensor or easy start. My FIL has a 251c and the toll less seems real flimsy. If you can’t learn how to adjust the chain with 2 nuts or aren’t strong enough to pull the starter rope you shouldn’t be running a saw period.
 
My understanding was that the ms250 had slightly more torque, almost negligible, but did not have the same anti vibration system and therefore not as nice to run.
 
My understanding was that the ms250 had slightly more torque, almost negligible, but did not have the same anti vibration system and therefore not as nice to run.
Yes it was rubber Av on the 250's. I used a ms231. It felt nice for what it was. I nearly kept it but a ms241 came up in nearly new condition straight gassed for less than the ms231 made me.

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The MS 250 cuts above its weight in my opinion. In my opinion, it cuts much better than a MS 290. The 250 can be easy to flood if not careful but it’s a good saw.
 
I'll be the voice of reason for your brother here among enthusiasts; Get the 251 with 16" bar. Keep the standard .325 chain so he can buy a new one from any store as he's not likely to to sharpen when dull. Don't get a 250 because the air filter requires much more maintenance than a 251, and the antivibe is better on a 251. The standard pullstart is more reliable than the Easystart. But if you have arthritis or any other issues, Easystart is the way to go. No opinion on the toolless chain adjuster. I've used it and I've flipped the bars no problem. You should give him a gift of premixed non-ethanol fuel with his purchase.
 
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