winch for my dump trailer

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Ok I got tired of lifting wood by hand when I don't have the Kubota . Harbor freight 12000 lb Badlands winch got on sale for 299 had a coupon for 20% off . Used 3/16 box steel for the mount welded to the frame . Was going to put it in the box but would have had to use long cables from the winch to the bed pivot then back to the battery at the tongue then used a Rough country quick disconnect What you can't see is the 2 in reciever so i can take it on and off or use it on the truck. I have used it twice with 10 foot oak logs . Works great next thing I am making for it is some type of lifting arch to load the logs higher . Right now I can stack two rows, I'll post some more detailed pics later unnamed.jpgcableset_7676.jpg
 
You will either bend those bars or twist the trailer frame unless you have some braces I'm not seeing. Need to tie the two upright together near the winch and put a support going down to the trailer deck or tongue.

What is the winch bolted to, a plate welded between the uprights?
 
I agree, it looks like it needs some beefing up. really cool idea though!!!!
 
I have a similar set up. I see you set your tubing on a 45 degree angle. That adds a lot of strength. I assume you also have it butted up against your bulkhead, which dependent on how high and strong it is will also add strength. If you see that you need something extra, a short piece of chain triangulated down to the tongue with a load binder for adjustment works well. You can remove it quickly, keeping the winch portable as you stated. That is what I do. Read up on parbuckling? You can roll logs onto the trailer as high as you can stack them, of course the logs need to be cut shorter and go on 90 degrees to your current method. I did that for a while, till I built my crane.
 
Got one like that on ford 250 . You are going to need something other that that little bitty steel you got that thing sitting on you will fold that down the first good pull . and when you got your cable out cut about 20 foot off it. cause it will never wind up like that again, and will bind-break the cross brackets you got your control box mounted on. wont hurt a thing the most foot pounds of pull come closer to the drum anyway. They are a heck of a winch, just be prepared to tear some $**** if things get tight.
 
Well I have done 4 loads of 22"to 24" oak 10 ft lenghts so far no twisting or deflection. According to my calculations the rounds are between 3400 lbs to 4000lbs. The 1018 2x4 3/16 box steel has a minimum yeild strength of 250 MPa and tensile of 400-550 MPa. 36000 lbs and 55-80000 lbs . I have thought of using a chain to the tongue if it's an unusually large piece. But the again I can just cut the trunk shorter.
 
You will either bend those bars or twist the trailer frame unless you have some braces I'm not seeing. Need to tie the two upright together near the winch and put a support going down to the trailer deck or tongue.

What is the winch bolted to, a plate welded between the uprights?

I used this for the winchimages.jpg
 
Well I have done 4 loads of 22"to 24" oak 10 ft lenghts so far no twisting or deflection. According to my calculations the rounds are between 3400 lbs to 4000lbs. The 1018 2x4 3/16 box steel has a minimum yeild strength of 250 MPa and tensile of 400-550 MPa. 36000 lbs and 55-80000 lbs . I have thought of using a chain to the tongue if it's an unusually large piece. But the again I can just cut the trunk shorter.

A 4000lb log dragging across the dirt is a pretty hard pull. Let's say 8-10,000lbs I can't tell the length of your tubing but at 3ft, that is 24-30,000lbs of force on the bottom, with a potential for 48,000lbs of pull.

It's not so much the size of the tubing, but that it's a big lever. That why I said it needs to be braced.
 

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