cmetalbend
ArboristSite Operative
After a few questions regarding my wood elevator, I decided to give all the specs, likes, dislikes, things I would change and ones I did. And maybe a few helpful tips.
Wood elevator Basics
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cmetalbend
ArboristSite Operative
let's get started
Ok, the first thing you need to know is how big your general peices are going to be. My ideal peice's I decided were 16-18''. The pictured ele. is 21'' across between the frame rails. I can run 2 footers through it running lengthways, but they can get Kockeyed and jam ocasionally. This unit is almost 11 foot long, end of rail to end of rail. It's powered by a hydralic motor purchased at Baileynet.com Part #on the motor is DH160 or 151-2125 made by SAUR DANFOSS of Denmark. It's connected to the drive shaft by an everday "lovejoy coupler" 1'' shaft both sides. The lower shaft(drive) is 1 inch solid rod with a 1/4 keyway all the way across, so I could space the gears to the chain accordingly. The upper is the only peice( other then the chain) that I salvaged from a grain elevator it's 1,1/4 shaft. Both shafts are mounted in 2 bolt style pillow blocks. The upper has almost 8 inches of slack adjustment capability. The chain is a standard 35 dual chain, I think. However they are expensive to buy new, hence the salvage yard. The frame work is mild 1 inch square tubing. I wanted to mount it to the side of my splitter, so I braced it very strong at the bottom and added a peice of tubing across the rails under the bed to run the hydralic hoses through. the control valve was purchased also at Bailey.net, I belive the part # is 450-099. I simply hooked the output side of the splitter valve in the input side of the variable flow control valve. the excess fluid not being used to turn the motor is returned by the bypass outlet. Speed is adjustable from a crawl to faster then a 4 way wegde can split. Does it work? Absolutely, love it. Think for a minute, this device eleminates an entire step, loading it. everbody who has experence with a splitter know's that peices will build up around you. Not anymore. when I'm done splitting I hook the trailer up and go home.
Ok, the first thing you need to know is how big your general peices are going to be. My ideal peice's I decided were 16-18''. The pictured ele. is 21'' across between the frame rails. I can run 2 footers through it running lengthways, but they can get Kockeyed and jam ocasionally. This unit is almost 11 foot long, end of rail to end of rail. It's powered by a hydralic motor purchased at Baileynet.com Part #on the motor is DH160 or 151-2125 made by SAUR DANFOSS of Denmark. It's connected to the drive shaft by an everday "lovejoy coupler" 1'' shaft both sides. The lower shaft(drive) is 1 inch solid rod with a 1/4 keyway all the way across, so I could space the gears to the chain accordingly. The upper is the only peice( other then the chain) that I salvaged from a grain elevator it's 1,1/4 shaft. Both shafts are mounted in 2 bolt style pillow blocks. The upper has almost 8 inches of slack adjustment capability. The chain is a standard 35 dual chain, I think. However they are expensive to buy new, hence the salvage yard. The frame work is mild 1 inch square tubing. I wanted to mount it to the side of my splitter, so I braced it very strong at the bottom and added a peice of tubing across the rails under the bed to run the hydralic hoses through. the control valve was purchased also at Bailey.net, I belive the part # is 450-099. I simply hooked the output side of the splitter valve in the input side of the variable flow control valve. the excess fluid not being used to turn the motor is returned by the bypass outlet. Speed is adjustable from a crawl to faster then a 4 way wegde can split. Does it work? Absolutely, love it. Think for a minute, this device eleminates an entire step, loading it. everbody who has experence with a splitter know's that peices will build up around you. Not anymore. when I'm done splitting I hook the trailer up and go home.
cmetalbend
ArboristSite Operative
considerations
A few things to consider are 1)gpm pump is rated at, verses the size of cylinder usuage(The fluid amount used to op the cylinder) , the pictured unit revloves around 16gpm. Valve,pump,motor,vari flow motor valve are all rated to that. Now the speed of the chain is determined by several things, actual motor speed capability,fluid avaliable,drive gear size and valve setting. 2)angle. Exceeding 45 degree's without having wood travel back down can be difficult. This 11' is up about 2' off the ground and will fill the typical truckbed trailer easily right over the center. 3) Weight, well I don't know what it weighs, but I'd estimate 175-250 pounds. When extended any delivery angle one man can tilt up back upright. In the pictures you see chains holding the angle, I cought them on the splitter cylinder snapping them both. That had to go. I now use a Single cable to support it, and use the cylinder to do the lifting for me. 4)actual depth of the elevator can make a big difference this one has about 4-5 inches I think. 5) Chain- the stock chain had paddles ever 13'' I removed every other one so the peices would actually ride on the floor between the paddles. Oh, crap games about to start, Catch ya latter.
A few things to consider are 1)gpm pump is rated at, verses the size of cylinder usuage(The fluid amount used to op the cylinder) , the pictured unit revloves around 16gpm. Valve,pump,motor,vari flow motor valve are all rated to that. Now the speed of the chain is determined by several things, actual motor speed capability,fluid avaliable,drive gear size and valve setting. 2)angle. Exceeding 45 degree's without having wood travel back down can be difficult. This 11' is up about 2' off the ground and will fill the typical truckbed trailer easily right over the center. 3) Weight, well I don't know what it weighs, but I'd estimate 175-250 pounds. When extended any delivery angle one man can tilt up back upright. In the pictures you see chains holding the angle, I cought them on the splitter cylinder snapping them both. That had to go. I now use a Single cable to support it, and use the cylinder to do the lifting for me. 4)actual depth of the elevator can make a big difference this one has about 4-5 inches I think. 5) Chain- the stock chain had paddles ever 13'' I removed every other one so the peices would actually ride on the floor between the paddles. Oh, crap games about to start, Catch ya latter.
user 19670
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:spam:
I mean no disrespect and am not trying to start some kind of flame war.
All I can think of now is we are finding more and more ways to burn some kind of fossil fuel so we can save fuel by burning wood.
-saws
-splitters
-elevators
-transportation
May as well burn fossil fuel.
:spam:
I mean no disrespect and am not trying to start some kind of flame war.
All I can think of now is we are finding more and more ways to burn some kind of fossil fuel so we can save fuel by burning wood.
-saws
-splitters
-elevators
-transportation
May as well burn fossil fuel.
:spam:
cmetalbend
ArboristSite Operative
I hear what your saying ,but in this instance we're not actually burning more fuel the motor's already runnin to the splitter.
wdchuck
Addicted to ArboristSite
Keep up the good work, looks nice.
cmetalbend
ArboristSite Operative
what Don't like, what I do
alright half time, back to subject. what I don't care for is the chains and paddles. They're high maintance, need tighened often and Are somewhat difficult to shorten by link design. The unit as a whole does take up some truck bed space, but this may not be a concern for you. And with attached to the side, it limits me to what I can get between it and the splitter. But on the other hand when I'm done splitting, I'm done. Don't have to split then load and then go home. I've sold wood right off the elevator. Customer shows up, backs under the end and drives off. Simple as that. My fav.
alright half time, back to subject. what I don't care for is the chains and paddles. They're high maintance, need tighened often and Are somewhat difficult to shorten by link design. The unit as a whole does take up some truck bed space, but this may not be a concern for you. And with attached to the side, it limits me to what I can get between it and the splitter. But on the other hand when I'm done splitting, I'm done. Don't have to split then load and then go home. I've sold wood right off the elevator. Customer shows up, backs under the end and drives off. Simple as that. My fav.
cmetalbend
ArboristSite Operative
If I did it again, how much power does she have?
To make another one, I would change a few design flaws. Instead of using two chains I would turn the way The wood is loaded from perpendicular to parrallel with the elevator. Make it narrower say 6-10 inches wide between the rails, and use only one center chain. No it wouldn't be as tough, but I'd speculate more reliable and lighter for sure. And I might try a single belt, But those arent cheap either. Let me put it this way you can load a 18'' block in every open section while it's stopped and it will start up and send them right over the end no problem. When and if, I get a video recorder I'll post on youtube. Hopes this helps all and saves you trouble of my mistakes. Chris
To make another one, I would change a few design flaws. Instead of using two chains I would turn the way The wood is loaded from perpendicular to parrallel with the elevator. Make it narrower say 6-10 inches wide between the rails, and use only one center chain. No it wouldn't be as tough, but I'd speculate more reliable and lighter for sure. And I might try a single belt, But those arent cheap either. Let me put it this way you can load a 18'' block in every open section while it's stopped and it will start up and send them right over the end no problem. When and if, I get a video recorder I'll post on youtube. Hopes this helps all and saves you trouble of my mistakes. Chris
cabinman
ArboristSite Guru
What,?..
Hey gordie, Ive got an old horse that wont pull my wagon any more, and hes for sale,. should be of good use to u, Ive got an old two man cross buck saw that is worn out and wont cut any more, thats for sale to, and a couple of double ended axes that are near the end of there life, maybe you can use them as well, Iam trying to save fuel here and you seem like the guy to help our planet by recyceling, maybe we can work out a plan together
Hey gordie, Ive got an old horse that wont pull my wagon any more, and hes for sale,. should be of good use to u, Ive got an old two man cross buck saw that is worn out and wont cut any more, thats for sale to, and a couple of double ended axes that are near the end of there life, maybe you can use them as well, Iam trying to save fuel here and you seem like the guy to help our planet by recyceling, maybe we can work out a plan together
Tree Student
ArboristSite Member
Thanks Chris.
Other than the free chain and sprocket, what is the approximate price that you have invested in this elevator?
Other than the free chain and sprocket, what is the approximate price that you have invested in this elevator?
cjcocn
Tree Freak
Chris
Thanks for the pics and the text explaining the build and its pros and cons so far.
As for the extra fuel, sure it may burn more in some cases (not here as it is run off the splitter), but the way I see it - it allows one to process quicker so is more than favorable at the end of the day, IMHO.
Thanks for the pics and the text explaining the build and its pros and cons so far.
As for the extra fuel, sure it may burn more in some cases (not here as it is run off the splitter), but the way I see it - it allows one to process quicker so is more than favorable at the end of the day, IMHO.
cabinman
ArboristSite Guru
the horse
your gonia need to pull some weeds in the summer to hold him over in the winter, cuz I spoiled him on pasture grasses, and the thought of feedind him using any kind of fossel fuel is against our belefs, Ill send this on be half of a telegram, piggy back with my grocery order, oh , how did you get threw so fast with your comments,??????????? Ive herd of some fangled electronic mail, BUTT,,,that would be waisting some kind of fuel, ,...any way If you start walkin now by spring you might be withen yelling distance,..carefull tho thoes damn horseless carrages will run yer ass over if ya use there path,
your gonia need to pull some weeds in the summer to hold him over in the winter, cuz I spoiled him on pasture grasses, and the thought of feedind him using any kind of fossel fuel is against our belefs, Ill send this on be half of a telegram, piggy back with my grocery order, oh , how did you get threw so fast with your comments,??????????? Ive herd of some fangled electronic mail, BUTT,,,that would be waisting some kind of fuel, ,...any way If you start walkin now by spring you might be withen yelling distance,..carefull tho thoes damn horseless carrages will run yer ass over if ya use there path,
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redprospector
Addicted to ArboristSite
cmetalbend,
I like your basic design, and when I work some kink's out of mine I'll probably incorperate some of your idea's. I'm not sure going to a single chain will be as good as you think. That's what mine is and I'm thinking of changing it to a belt.
Andy
I like your basic design, and when I work some kink's out of mine I'll probably incorperate some of your idea's. I'm not sure going to a single chain will be as good as you think. That's what mine is and I'm thinking of changing it to a belt.
Andy
Tree Student
ArboristSite Member
Can you give us some details on yours, did you build it yourself?
I am in need of a conveyor for my firewood operation to cut down on my labor cost so I'm trying to get as much input as I can.
Thanks.
cabinman
ArboristSite Guru
Red
I have a elevator simular to that one you posted, Ive never used it, so, my question is, with such a narrow trough, what is wrong with a single chain?, what problems are you having with it,? what do you expect a belt to do to fix it, these parts arent cheap and past experence is pricless, Thanks T,C, E,J,
cmetalbend,
I like your basic design, and when I work some kink's out of mine I'll probably incorperate some of your idea's. I'm not sure going to a single chain will be as good as you think. That's what mine is and I'm thinking of changing it to a belt.
Andy
I have a elevator simular to that one you posted, Ive never used it, so, my question is, with such a narrow trough, what is wrong with a single chain?, what problems are you having with it,? what do you expect a belt to do to fix it, these parts arent cheap and past experence is pricless, Thanks T,C, E,J,
country boy
ArboristSite Operative
Wow that is some nice work there impressive . Is your splitter fastened to the truck ?
cmetalbend
ArboristSite Operative
You bet, 55mph at 20 below and pulls the trailer. Here's pics I've put up before but what the heck.
cmetalbend
ArboristSite Operative
splitter removal
You might have picked out the hydralic power supply at the front of the flat bed. What you didn't know is that the motor has four 9/16 nuts attaching it. lift it off and a trap door flops down leaving the pump/resivoir inbed. Then you can disconnect the quick connect fittings at the back. pull two pins and drive off. And your back to your flatbed with Bale spikes. Then I have a whole series of special spikes for different applications. Here's what I came up with when I roofed my house. Those dang archetectual shingles way 100 pounds a bundle Here's how to move a square at once to the roof. I parked right under the eve. Hit the lever in the truck and up they went. oh I forgot somthing the motor(eletric start) operates off the truck battery. You also have to disconnect one battery lead.
You might have picked out the hydralic power supply at the front of the flat bed. What you didn't know is that the motor has four 9/16 nuts attaching it. lift it off and a trap door flops down leaving the pump/resivoir inbed. Then you can disconnect the quick connect fittings at the back. pull two pins and drive off. And your back to your flatbed with Bale spikes. Then I have a whole series of special spikes for different applications. Here's what I came up with when I roofed my house. Those dang archetectual shingles way 100 pounds a bundle Here's how to move a square at once to the roof. I parked right under the eve. Hit the lever in the truck and up they went. oh I forgot somthing the motor(eletric start) operates off the truck battery. You also have to disconnect one battery lead.
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cmetalbend
ArboristSite Operative
Well let's just make a list with approx. price. Hydr motor 159.99-varable fow controller valve 59.99. hyd hoses 45, Disconnects 30 although not required. 4 pillow blocks 35, (4( peices of all thread 3/4 inch 15, lovejoy connecter 30, tubing 60' approx 50, sheet metal I'm guessing 35, other peices of steel 30, cable lift 20. . For all new. One shaft had gears, the other is has new gears 35. that's 550 ish. Is it worth it. He** ya if you use it alot. Expescially since it's transported so easily.
cmetalbend
ArboristSite Operative
cmetalbend,
I like your basic design, and when I work some kink's out of mine I'll probably incorperate some of your idea's. I'm not sure going to a single chain will be as good as you think. That's what mine is and I'm thinking of changing it to a belt.
Andy
Love that trailer, does it have hydralic dump? I'm working on that now.
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