Just wondering how warm your air from your registers is I know there are a bunch of variables but just curious on differences between( epa and non epa). I have a Daka and just checked it and it is putting out 110 degree air its the shortest run but you get the idea.:msp_smile:
Wood furnace owners
- Thread starter ajr
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
stihly dan
Addicted to ArboristSite
112* low fire, low fan.
Your right about the variables, there are many. I keep one of those indoor/outdoor thermometers with the long wire attached to the outside probe in the register in my bedroom. That way I can monitor the register temp from the little console on my nightstand. Over time you can get a idea of what temps the furnace is putting out vs the status of the fire inside of the furnace. Your temps are in line with what mine are reading on a normal basis. The bedroom is the furthest vent from the furnace and thats the only one I keep track of. On a good hot fire I will be in the 120's for a while. These readings are nearly the same temps I get from my LP furnace. But seldom will the LP put out in the 120's
homemade
Certified Chainsaw Tester
I have a 1971 steel king add on wood furnace. I put a chimney thermometer on the vent stack about two feet from the furnace. I can get it constantly over 150 and after loading with a high fire it just peaks at 200.
laynes69
Addicted to ArboristSite
Because of the call for heat and different stages of the fire, it varies quite a bit. Anywhere from 90* on the tail end of a burn to 115*+ on a hot fire. Waking up in the single digits to low teens, 20 minutes to a half hour from loading is able to bring the home up a couple degrees. The old woodfurnace could put out 130+ degree heat, but doing so brought brutal temperature swings. With temps in the teens to low 30's, we can maintain a set temperature on the thermostat. I now prefer the softer heat over the old, just a higher comfort level. We are burning a 1950 Hotblast (PSG Caddy).
brenndatomu
Hey you woodchucks, quit chucking my wood!
I thought a Caddy and a Hotblast were 2 COMPLETELY different furnaces?! :msp_confused:
I checked my register temps with an infrared therm. this AM, which may have given me varying accuracy on my results due to the color/texture/etc. of the registers I checked. But for what it's worth, they ranged 80-90* furthest to closest register to the furnace. BTW this was with furnace on low fire, after a reload, gravity only (no blower running)
EDIT: I checked temps with furnace on high fire and blower running. They ranged 105* furthest away to 135* closest.
Last edited:
centennial60
ArboristSite Member
Yep there are a lot of variables. Blower CFM, duct restriction, duct length, etc. I can read 140°F at the furnace plenum but only 100° at the register of my longest run.
For a short while PSG made furnaces for US Stove. It basically was the Caddy and called the Hotblast 1950. It was dark green in color.
brenndatomu
Hey you woodchucks, quit chucking my wood!
Ahah! That clears a few things up! A while back layne69 referenced youtube videos of his furnace, when I went to watch them it said Hotblast 1950 and he was showing a good secondary burn goin. I thought this was video of his old furnace (prior to the Caddy) that he had modded with secondary air tubes or something. I couldn't, for the life of me figure out how he was getting those secondary flames with the door of the Hotblast wide open! Now I see, Caddy with glass...:bang:
PLAYINWOOD
ArboristSite Guru
I've never recorded this with a temp measuring instrument, but, when my Newmac was new, and i didnt have a A/C coil in the plenum, with the shortest run of duct from the furnace being in our ensuite bath I have warped the plastic register vents...and I have had the house 90F in 0F weather.
All this by mistake.
All this by mistake.
The Max Caddy has a variable Multi Speed motor. The electronics monitor plenum temps to keep them at around 160 F constant. It varies the blower speed to maintain those temp. What this means is that at every stage of the fire there is no chance of condensation (creosote) since it will not cool the fire box too much. It also means it has great heat exchange efficiencies.
We will soon be introducing an ECM (DC) motor option for the Caddy. While this will be expensive, it will boost efficiencies and you'll be able to run the furnace on a car battery in case of power outage.
We will soon be introducing an ECM (DC) motor option for the Caddy. While this will be expensive, it will boost efficiencies and you'll be able to run the furnace on a car battery in case of power outage.
brenndatomu
Hey you woodchucks, quit chucking my wood!
I was just looking into what it would take to retrofit a variable speed motor and a way to control it to maintain a target temp. I dislike the blower kicking on and off once the secondary burn takes off for a couple hours after a reloading. Too much heat for gravity to deal with, not enough to keep the blower on for more than a minute or two!
Going to DC would simplify executing my other idea, battery backup for the blower to cool the firebox down if the power went out during "high fire," takes a bit to cool the beast down! Gonna be pricey, huh?
stihly dan
Addicted to ArboristSite
ECM motors are the cats meow. Are going to have the logic as well to keep the fan constantly monitoring supply temp, for exact temps?
You're way ahead of me... dont know much more. As soon as I get more news will share with you folks.
stihly dan
Addicted to ArboristSite
That would be a whole new world in wood furnaces. Should be able to stay within a degree of set point..
Similar threads
