wood shed

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dave_376

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I am currently working on gathering supplies now.I want to build it big 8x24 -12x24 but we will see how much money I have to spend. I was thinking about having the shed off the ground 18" to allow extra of air flow using boards as decking leaving 1" space. On the walls I was considering using boards in a staggered pattern 1 outside 1 inside,1 outside 1 inside. To allow more airflow while keeping any driving rain or snow out of it. There is a local guy with a bandsaw mill and cheap prices on wood, any input on what kind of wood I should use for siding, flooring, roof? I will be using cedar posts (logs/trees) and pressure treated for the floor joists. I haven't decided on shingles for the roof or tin, leaning towards shingles only because of cost. Any input will be appreciated, point me in the best direction because I only want to do this once and I want my wood to season rather than get punky.
 
id just go with rough cut hemlock/pine
its cheap and it lasts a long time as long as its not in the dirt.
keep the bottom up off the ground an inch or two and atleast go around the edge of the building with stone, to keep the dirt from splashing up when it rains you should be fine...
 
I store my wood in an old corn crib. The siding is pine boards that have the top and bottom edges ripped at 45 degree angle. There is a 3/4 inch gap between boards, but the angles overlap so rain/snow don't get in. The thin edge along the bottom of the board faces outward so when it rains it dries quickly and doesn't rot. Mine is 60 plus years old with no rot.
 
I store my wood in an old corn crib. The siding is pine boards that have the top and bottom edges ripped at 45 degree angle. There is a 3/4 inch gap between boards, but the angles overlap so rain/snow don't get in. The thin edge along the bottom of the board faces outward so when it rains it dries quickly and doesn't rot. Mine is 60 plus years old with no rot.

I assume both edges; top and bottom, of the board have a 45 degree angle on them. kind of like this View attachment 289796
 
the cedar posts I will be cutting out of my back yard. I only have a few that are dead and none are bigger than 8" dia.

I was saying the cedar, sourced from the bandsaw mill guy if he has it. If not, whatever is cheapest. As long as the wood can dry, like said above, anything will last a long time. Our old cabin is real dang old, unpainted pine boards.
 
id just go with rough cut hemlock/pine
its cheap and it lasts a long time as long as its not in the dirt.
keep the bottom up off the ground an inch or two and atleast go around the edge of the building with stone, to keep the dirt from splashing up when it rains you should be fine...

Yup, I also agree with rough cut pine or hemlock. Both excellent wood for using when building sides on a barn, woodshead, etc.
 
Look at the thread titled Post pictures of you woodpile/splitting area under this Forum...it will take you a while to go through the pages, but you will get all sorts of ideas.
 
I've been going through the options for this exact size woodshed. I don't think you can buy the materials to build one for what they will install one of those steel carports for. $695 will get a 12X21 installed. Another couple hundred makes it a little bigger or gets you boxed eves.
 
I've been going through the options for this exact size woodshed. I don't think you can buy the materials to build one for what they will install one of those steel carports for. $695 will get a 12X21 installed. Another couple hundred makes it a little bigger or gets you boxed eves.

that is what I wanted to do but the Misses said it was too WT for her and definitely no!
 
I know this is not wood but have always thought one of these be greaat for fire wood , leave the bottom 3-4 ft outside metal off to allow for air circulation. around here see them all over on old farms abandoned. guessing could move it if it was small enough with out to much trouble. View attachment 289815
if it was painted black would think the heat generated inside might even aid in drying wood!!
 
I know this is not wood but have always thought one of these be greaat for fire wood , leave the bottom 3-4 ft outside metal off to allow for air circulation. around here see them all over on old farms abandoned. guessing could move it if it was small enough with out to much trouble. View attachment 289815
if it was painted black would think the heat generated inside might even aid in drying wood!!

Wouldn't work, the rings are actually the structure. With the bottom ring left off it would just be one ring shorter. :bang:

To the OP, I have been thinking of building one like you mentioned, with boards staggered in and out. Looks like a good way to keep weather off and let air through.
 
View attachment 289833

I've been storing wood in a metal grain bin for years. Dries quite well as I have mine sitting on blocks to aid airflow. I'm putting a wooden floor in it this year to see if it helps the bottom pieces get better circulation. Heavy rains made the floor pretty wet the past couple days, but it's almost empty so not a big deal. It is 14 feet across and holds about 7 cords.
 
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View attachment 289833

I've been storing wood in a metal grain bin for years. Dries quite well as I have mine sitting on blocks to aid airflow. I'm putting a wooden floor in it this year to see if it helps the bottom pieces get better circulation. Heavy rains made the floor pretty wet the past couple days, but it's almost empty so not a big deal. It is 14 feet across and holds about 7 cords.

your floor looks wet and muddy. I would add crushed stone and then wood floor or pallets on top of that.
 
your floor looks wet and muddy. I would add crushed stone and then wood floor or pallets on top of that.

We've had several inches of rain the past couple days resulting in that wet spot which is actually a small spring that pops up only when it's really wet. This is only the second time since 2005 this has been an issue. I have 4-6 inches of gravel as a floor now. I am putting cement blocks under 2x12s to eliminate this as can kind of be seen in the pic.
 
Floor seems to be unnecessary to me. Used plastic pallets or sapling poles on concrete blocks will let air move under the wood better with less cost.
 
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