would appreciate some advice on root pruning

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mjellison

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I'll be doing a job with an air spade and doing quite a lot of root pruning. I've never done it before. do you trim them using the same techniques employed in the crown of the tree? such as trimming back to a suitable lateral or do you just cut them off anywhere you want? I know the importance of making clean cuts on roots but that's about all. any advice would be appreciated. thanks
 
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I'll be doing a job with an air space and doing quite a lot of root pruning. I've never done it before. do you trim them using the same techniques employed in the crown of the tree? such as trimming back to a suitable lateral or do you just cut them off anywhere you want? I know the importance of making clean cuts on roots but that's about all. any advice would be appreciated. thanks

You always try to make cuts at a lateral. Less is definitely more when root pruning. The biggest concern is girdled, or roots that will be girdled. Also remember that any problems you create with bad cuts underground will not only have effects at that spot and be unsightly but Will also adversely affect the crown of the tree, and be noticeable there (in the crown) too.

I am sure some of the more experienced guys will be right along to help out WAY more.
 
Beside being the food system for trees, roots are the support system also. Cut to much and you have a serious problem. As each situation is different, questions like why are cutting the roots and species of the tree all have to be answered. Also the overall condition of the tree before cutting has to be evaluated. In general smooth cuts to laterals is correct.
 
From what I've been told the trees are sycamores and they have been pushing up sidewalks, curbs, and is tearing up the asphalt in the parking lot. Many of them we just planted in places that were way to small for mature trees (4' by 4' parking lot islands) and we will probably be removing several of them but we want to try and save as many as we can without seriously damaging the root system and potentially causing the trees to fall over. They are about 60' tall now and it would be a shame to remove all 30 of them. My boss also mentioned installing root barriers on the ones that we root prune. I have never done that either. Sorry I haven't been out there to take pictures. I'm thinking that removing too many roots within the drip line of the tree just would be too rough on the tree so we would remove those and try to save the others.
Thanks for the attachments they are interesting. I like learning new stuff.
 
Under the conditions you describe, restricted planting areas, curbs, sidewalks, etc. I would highly recommend removing everything and replanting using something such as Bio-Barrier or other root barrier type material.

To try so sever a root pruning as would be required to limit further damage to the curbs, sidewalks and pavement would highly compromise the health of the tree. By starting over, with the root barriers, you would be establishing trees with a much healthier future and a longer life.

These root barrier type materials have a well proven track record and are used in many municipalities across the country. http://www.biobarrier.com/
http://www.deeproot.com/index.php
 
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thanks for the info on the different types of root barriers. We probably will end up cutting most of these trees down. I'm always amazed at the amount of trees that are planted by landscapers and landscape designers who have no concept that these trees will get bigger. I think my job would only be part time if it wasn't for these people. I just had to remove a big leaf maple, one of the largest deciduous trees in Oregon that was planted literally one foot from the side of a garage and one foot from a parking lot on the other side, at first I thought maybe it was just a volunteer but after looking at the other spaced out maples all over I concluded somebody actually planted it there. It's too bad when these trees start to get nice and mature they have to be removed and then start all over again. what a waste of money, trees and time.
 
We probably will end up cutting most of these trees down. what a waste of money, trees and time.
Before you waste all that, look at alternative pavement and also growth regulator and reduction pruning. Platanus is very tolerant of disturbance. Probably a combination of treatments can retain most trees.

Doesn't the owner have an opinion on this???
 
One thing that I did was to become a member of my towns "Tree Commission" which is a mayorally appointed position that reviews developers plans and makes recommendations to the local planning and zoning board on changes that should be made to have them become a more tree friendly plan.

This has involved the creation of some new or, changes in, statutes as far as the size of planting islands in parking lots, and the width of the green space between the curb and sidewalks. This has gone a long way to altering the look of our town. We also had written into the books that developers had to plant one shade tree for every 10 parking spaces and there could be no more than 16 spaces between planting islands.

It won't be easy, but with patience it can be done. Getting town officials to think in terms of 50 - 100 years into the future is the toughest. Politicians are perpetually short sighted. Just looking forward to the next election. Never concerned with the long term health of their community.

Like you, a good portion of our business was correcting the errors of the "Landscape Designer" or "Landscape Architect" types. I don't regret the work, but I would have preferred to have been doing something else. Some real tree "care" and not just removals. One of the worst we had to deal with was an internationally recognized landscape architect that was brought over from England 4 times a year at one of our major clients. He over planted on a major scale. OK, yes. The plantings did look fabulous right away. Grand scale. Huge statements. But within 2 - 3 years the trees were running out of growing space because he had specified too little separation between plants. Then the question was, prune or selective removal?

This L.A. thought nothing of planting 6" - 8" DBH trees, sometimes larger, at a huge expense, only to have some removed in less than 3 years. He selected specimen trees from all over the globe. But this is another issue. Properly selected native species plant material inherently does better with less maintenance.
 
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