Would like a parts list for Aux oiler.....

[CaseyForrest]

I know a few of you guys have put together your own oilers. I just got a couple 36" chains because I have some logs big enough to warrant the 36" bar. I know Im going to need more oil then the oiler on the saw, as it just keeps up with the 28" I use.

I would like to stick with fittings and such I can get locally, like TSC, HD and Lowes.

I plan on not drilling the bar, and letting it dribble onto the bottm side of the bar/chain just past the nose. I think Ill use clear tubing from the tank to where I mount it on the mill, and then from there Ill use bendable copper. Or I may use Copper all the way. What makes a good tank? Ive seen some made out of PVC pipe. Or maybe a Nalgene bottle.....

Suggestions anyone. Oh...and pics of your homemade Aux Oiler would be nice too!!!

Thanks.

 

[aggiewoodbutchr]

I'm sure you have seen these already.

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=37090

I had this initially set up to dribble on the bar as well. It wastes a lot of oil and I'm not confident it gets everywhere it needs to be BUT it's better than nothing. I had a brass ball valve on it at first but it always vibrated to wide open. The plastic valve that's on it now works much better. If you would like to see more angles of mine let me know and I'll get more pics up.

 

[woodshop]

I dunno Casey... I planned on putting an aux oiler on my 36" csm when I got it also, but after using it for a while I found that I really didn't need any if I turn up my 395 oiler all the way. I always have a ton of buildup down on the inside of the csm guard consisting of bar oil mixed with that fine dust a csm gives off. That tells me I have oil down there at the end of the bar. My ripping chain is not as oily as if I was cutting normally and had the oiler full blast, but it's not dry either. Curious what chainsaw you are using on that 28" that "barely keeps up"? Maybe my 395 just puts out a ton of oil, and another saw might not work. Although my Stihl 460 oiler also keeps up with its 32 inch bar on the csm when its oiler is turned all the way up. I use only Stihl bar oil... maybe that makes a difference too.

 

[CaseyForrest]

Woodshop, Im using a 660 with the HO oiler upgrade. It oils fine with the 28", but for what I think is enough oil, its just enough. I always err on the side of more oil as opposed to chain wear and bar wear. Not sure if you remember reading where I said Ive had the bar and chain so hot I couldnt touch them. I do use Stihl oil as well.

Most of what I have to mill is hardwood. So the saw is usually wound up for awhile per cut. If Im lucky, I can get 2 8' cuts per tank of fuel. And the oil tank is usually still at least 1/3 full.

 

[CaseyForrest]

I'm sure you have seen these already.

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=37090

I had this initially set up to dribble on the bar as well. It wastes a lot of oil and I'm not confident it gets everywhere it needs to be BUT it's better than nothing. I had a brass ball valve on it at first but it always vibrated to wide open. The plastic valve that's on it now works much better. If you would like to see more angles of mine let me know and I'll get more pics up.

Aggie, what do you have in the way of parts there? Thats sort of what Im thinking.

Did you drill and tap threads into the bottom of your reservoir? I see you ended your tube into a brass 90. Did you route the last part of your oiler through your plastic block that you made to fix the discrepancy in the mill?

 

[dustytools]

I saw a picture somewhere of a homemade oiler. It was made from a small lawnmower gas tank which was already set-up for a tube or line for feed. It had a shutoff valve to control the flow of oil and a copper tube at the end of the rubber line to direct the oil properly. It was mounted to a small post with large radiator clamps similar to the one that Granberg sells.

 

[CaseyForrest]

I saw a picture somewhere of a homemade oiler. It was made from a small lawnmower gas tank which was already set-up for a tube or line for feed. It had a shutoff valve to control the flow of oil and a copper tube at the end of the rubber line to direct the oil properly. It was mounted to a small post with large radiator clamps similar to the one that Granberg sells.

I thought of the same thing. I dont want to spend what Im sure will be a months pay for a new gas tank!!! LOL

Ill have to check TSC and see if they have anything on the shelf.

 

[poleframer]

Anyone else try stihl "winter weight" bar oil? Came in a blue jug I think. I ran a jug, seemed thinner than reg. oil, but yet sticky like bar oil should be. I liked the way it flowed, but my local dealer didnt get more than a case or two.Nobody liked it I guess. I did. Might be worth trying.
Russell

 

[oldsaw]

Casey, run the oil into the groove using a drilled bolt like Granberg. Dribbling the oil on the bar isn't going to work as well, but will make a bigger mess. All they do is drill out a 1/4" bolt, drill about a 3/32" hole crosswise, and then you drill the bar at the back side of the groove...easy. Grind off the top threads, but leave enough to get a nut and washer on.

You can use anything for a tank. I believe someone here used PVC even, a piece of pipe with two caps. You will need a tight valve with a hose barb output, and you are in business. Mount it with big hose clamps.

Mark

 

[Freakingstang]

I haven't built one yet, but I have a couple plastic fuel tanks from various small briggs and other engines. they hold about 1 quart of fluid and I would think they would make a good addition to a CSM aux oiler setup. It is plastic and doesn't weigh as much as the older metal tanks. I think it even has a 5/16" barbed fitting on the end of it....just need a valve, some hose, and a little stand to mount it on and you;d be in business!

 

[CaseyForrest]

I think the gas tank is going to be the way to go.

Ill see about drilling the bar, but I only have 1 36" bar. I cant see how drilling a hole in the rail will hurt it for regular use, but will it?

 

[flht01]

I think the gas tank is going to be the way to go.

Ill see about drilling the bar, but I only have 1 36" bar. I cant see how drilling a hole in the rail will hurt it for regular use, but will it?

I use a drilled 36" bar for regular use and the holes won't make any difference, they just plug up with chips. Just take the oiler bolt out for regulear use and put it back for milling. (I do have to use compressed air to clean the holes out.) I was using bar oil at first but have since started using old motor oil (for the aux oiler) and it works fine. The oiler bolt has holes drilled in it to distribute the oil in the groove and it does a good job of regulating the flow rate. I'll try to get a few pictures before the weekend's over.

 

[CaseyForrest]

Anyone else try stihl "winter weight" bar oil? Came in a blue jug I think. I ran a jug, seemed thinner than reg. oil, but yet sticky like bar oil should be. I liked the way it flowed, but my local dealer didnt get more than a case or two.Nobody liked it I guess. I did. Might be worth trying.
Russell

I do use winter weight, well, in the winter!!!

I did use it for awhile because I thought it may flow easier. After a few tanks, I noticed I wasnt using any more oil then if I had regular weight in the tank.

 

[CaseyForrest]

Casey, run the oil into the groove using a drilled bolt like Granberg. Dribbling the oil on the bar isn't going to work as well, but will make a bigger mess. All they do is drill out a 1/4" bolt, drill about a 3/32" hole crosswise, and then you drill the bar at the back side of the groove...easy. Grind off the top threads, but leave enough to get a nut and washer on.

You can use anything for a tank. I believe someone here used PVC even, a piece of pipe with two caps. You will need a tight valve with a hose barb output, and you are in business. Mount it with big hose clamps.

Mark

Hey Mark, can you elaborate on the oiler bolt?

If im getting this right, take a 1/4" bolt, drill it out so its hollow? Where does the 3/32 come in?

 

[Freakingstang]

If I can explain my thoughts....Here is what I think he means:

Take the bolt, with the head on the bottom of the bar, 3/32 hole gets drilled both perpendicular and parallel to the bar. The hose will slip over the bolt and feed (the hollow part of the bolt) then the cross hole will allow it to hit the chain channel on the bar.


That is my interpretation of his setup, and might work quite well. I could be totally off base, though.

 

[aggiewoodbutchr]

Aggie, what do you have in the way of parts there? Thats sort of what Im thinking.

Did you drill and tap threads into the bottom of your reservoir? I see you ended your tube into a brass 90. Did you route the last part of your oiler through your plastic block that you made to fix the discrepancy in the mill?

I didn't have a 12" NPT thread tap so I threaded it by drilling a slightly undersized hole and force threading a brass fitting into it. The plastic valve threaded into the "threads' left by the fitting and seals very well. The oil does pass through the plastic block and into the short piece of tubing that touches the bar. I'll get some pictures of the parts later today.

 

[hautions11]

Oiler

Freak, that is my read as well. Grinding the threads on the end of the bolt, so the tube will slip on the end. Leave threads on the bolt near the bar, so you can tighten the bolt on to the bar. You could get real slick and try to tap the bar, but with the groove in the bar there may not be enough "meat" left to get a good set of threads.

 

[aggiewoodbutchr]

I use the cheapest 5w-20 motor oil I can find in the auxiliary oiler. I've tried bar oil and various weights of motor oil and this one works the best for me. IMO the tacking agent really isn't necessary in this setup because you are supplying oil on both sides of the chain. Plus, the thinner oil seem to work it's way into the chain better when enough is present. I still use regular bar oil in the saw.

 

[flht01]

Hey Mark, can you elaborate on the oiler bolt?

If im getting this right, take a 1/4" bolt, drill it out so its hollow? Where does the 3/32 come in?

I've got the aux kit from granberg and will see if I can find the installation instructions. If I'm not mistaken, it shows the bolt and instructions on installing it along with instructions/dimensions on drilling the bar.

My grandson has me busy today so it might be a day or two before I get it posted. I'll measure my bolt and get a few pict's if I can't find the instruction sheet.

kevin

 

[oldsaw]

Hey Mark, can you elaborate on the oiler bolt?

If im getting this right, take a 1/4" bolt, drill it out so its hollow? Where does the 3/32 come in?

You want a bigger hole drilled through the bolt lengthwise, the 3/32 holes are cross drilled near the head of the bolt, one bar rail height above the head. Run a nut onto the bolt, then grind off some of the threads on the end so the tube can seal without leaking.

That way the hole drilled in the bar is just behind the bottom of the rail. On one bar I got it a bit too far into the bar and had to drill a hole through the bottom of the bar groove to allow oil to pass. Only missed by about 1/32". The 3/32" holes will feed the inside of the groove.

Make more sense. You can even buy the bolt, and nut from Granberg for a few bucks. That's what I did for my second bar.

Mark