Would you run this chain?

[Moparmyway]

So in your opinion where does that line lay? I've never had noticeable bogging and I really don't push I hold it and it feeds itself for the most part. Like I said though I haven't noticed. And just because I don't notice doesn't mean it isn't happening.


Regards-Carlo

That line is different for each person along with the saw, chain, and wood being cut.
What works for one saw could kill another saw
What works with one type of wood will chatter, jump, and snap a crank on another type of wood

Allowing a saw to self feed is easiest on a saw, however that chain shows a hamfisted reefer dude treated it very differently.

A proper sharpening along with some clean gullets would allow you to run taller rakers and get the same self feeding result, yet keep the cutters sharper for a longer amount of cuts

 

[strtspdlx]

Okay. I'm glad I posted this now. I was going to ask about chain sharpening in another thread but it seems all my questions are being answered so far. I'll admit I suck at sharpening. After all the jigs and what it I've used I can never get a chain to do what I want. Aside from my most recently sharpened chain on my 455. It self feeds. Holds up for longer then others I've done and cuts good compared to others I've done.


Regards-Carlo

 

[Moparmyway]

Okay. I'm glad I posted this now. I was going to ask about chain sharpening in another thread but it seems all my questions are being answered so far. I'll admit I suck at sharpening. After all the jigs and what it I've used I can never get a chain to do what I want. Aside from my most recently sharpened chain on my 455. It self feeds. Holds up for longer then others I've done and cuts good compared to others I've done.


Regards-Carlo

Start reading and looking at the pics in this thread
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/gtg-chain.278046/

 

[strtspdlx]

Moparmyway
I've been following that thread. I just realized I have a full chisel chain loop that I thought was semi. I may have to go get some new files and a bar.


Regards-Carlo

 

[RAYINTOMBALL]

Looks like if some of those rivets are peened much their going to be riding in the bar. Looks like that chain has been pushed hard. If it was me. New chain, practice sharpening, don't lower rakers as much. If it starts throwing dust and not chips resharpen. And let it feed itself don't lean on it. But that's just me.

 

[Adirondackstihl]

Most of that side plate wear is from an extremely worn sprocket IMO

 

[strtspdlx]

I was looking at the bar yesterday and noticed a good bit of wear to the tip. I could see atleast 1/16" of the driver. I have to really go through the bar and chain. I'm not sure I really want to use it. Id love to put a 25" setup on it but that may have to wait a bit.


Regards-Carlo

 

[Rx7man]

Most of the bars i've seen show a bit of the sprocket out of the tip... the clutch side sprocket is most likely the culprit as that's taking a lot of abuse

 

[strtspdlx]

Alright I may just grab a new one. They're fairly inexpensive.


Regards-Carlo

 

[Trx250r180]

I would get a new one ,the rakers look way to low from what i can see ,and different depths in the images ,it will be a grabby sob if you,plus the cutters are all different lengths ,you can even it back up with a grinder ,but a lot of the chain will have to be ground off to match those rakers being so low

 

[strtspdlx]

Well I went to a smaller file and left the rakers alone. In some nice old oak. Probably about 4-5 years old it cut the best out of anything I've sharpened so far.


Regards-Carlo

 

[Philbert]

Couple of things going on with that chain. One is that someone used parts from a different brand of chain to make or mend that chain into a loop. Might hold up; might be a failure point.

Chains are held together by rivets that are spun over to mushroom the ends. Peening over the heads with a hammer is a field option, when you don't have a chain spinner available. There is really no 'master link'; just identical parts that are used to join the chain into a loop: the tie straps, the rivets, and a 'pre-set', which is just a tie strap with the rivets pre-installed on one side to make things easier.

As noted by a few other comments, the gullets in those cutters could use cleaning out to help clear chips. The peening on the bottom of your tie straps suggests that the chain has been run too loosely, causing it to slap against the guide bar as it goes around at 60 MPH. Could also indicate a worn drive sprocket..

Take a close look at a new chain and compare your cutters, the profile, angles, etc. Decide what you want them to look like before you file or grind them. Lots of good information, including troubleshooting chain wear, in here: http://www.oregonproducts.com/pro/pdf/maintenance_manual/ms_manual.pdf

Philbert

 

[strtspdlx]

Philbert
I had thought it may have been a pieced together chain. More or less I'm going to use it as my r&d chain. I set the rakers real low and everyone said it would be grabby and whatnot. It isn't grabby much more then any other chain I've used if at all. I really need to learn proper cutter filing as I'm to cheap to buy a grinder and for what I'm doing it would be overkill. I'm just trying to
Make the best of what I've got. I do want to replace this b&c combo in the very near future with a bigger setup. Something like a 25"-28" would fit the bill perfectly for what I need it for. I started reading the Oregon guide you linked me too. Very good source of information. Now I just have to comprehend it all.


Regards-Carlo

 

[strtspdlx]

Bringing this back up. I finally found time to pull the saw apart a little and inspect the drive ring and chain. Drive ring seems okay. I have ran a lot worse. And the drivers in the chain are a good bit worn if I remember correctly how they're supposed to look. I'll put up pictures anyway


Regards-Carlo

 

[Big_Wood]

the chain is fine and the presets/tie straps just wear like that. the stihl chain don't wear as bad as the oregon as well. all my well used/finished off chains have presets/ tie straps that looks just like that. even ones ran on new bars with a new sprocket when the chain was new. saws oiling just fine and my chains are razor sharp. PSP's might find the wear odd but they probably haven't worn a chain out in their whole life sawing LOL

 

[Philbert]

the chain is fine and the presets/tie straps just wear like that. . . .PSP's might find the wear odd but they probably haven't worn a chain out in their whole life sawing . . .

I see chains worn to the nubs with little wear on the tie straps, and some with maybe a single sharpening that have their tie straps peened with a vengeance. I don't know the history of these 2 chains, but somebody got some use out of them.

The gullets are not impressive on the top chain; and the wear on the center of the tie strap suggests a worn drive sprocket; but the heels and toes of the tie straps are not worn too bad for that amount of use. Bottom chain shows wear on the heels, but not much peening. even when worn until the cutters flew off.

On one hand, if the tie straps last the life of the cutters, users may feel they have done their job. But the tie straps on the OP's chain look beat, with some peened almost to the rivet, and he has almost half of his cutter life left. The OP did not get this chain new, but I would keep an eye on chain tension if that was happening a lot.

Philbert

 

[Big_Wood]

I suppose your right again philbert. My chains when completely shot are like that. Sometime not as bad and sometime the same. All depends what I was running it on for sprocket or bar I suppose but if I run all new in the beginning it ends up like that but maybe not quite as bad. My Stihl chains end up way better then the Oregon ones when full worn out. Maybe I'm just running new sprockets whenever I get a new Stihl chain? I should start paying closer attention to it. I just make sure the chain is sharp, bar dressed, sprocket not worn passed serviceable limits, and saw is oiling. Other then that I don't worry about it.


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[Philbert]

Oregon says to buy new chains, and a new sprocket, and run them together, so that they wear together. That can work if you have one saw and 2-3 chains.

I don't do that. But I watch for the signs of wear, and the root causes.

Philbert

 

[Deleted member 83629]

i run the chain till it is so worn out it breaks a cutter and rims i dont change them till the chain cuts them in half from wear
but im cheap

 

[Big_Wood]

Oregon says to buy new chains, and a new sprocket, and run them together, so that they wear together. That can work if you have one saw and 2-3 chains.

I don't do that. But I watch for the signs of wear, and the root causes.

Philbert

Same here. Heck, I got 10 or more chains for some bar lengths LOL all just get circulated til finished off and I just keep adding new to the circulation. Replace sprocket every 70-80 tanks



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