Yes another chain/saw question

[sb47]

And that chain was used on the old sprocket?

That chain has only one tank on it. It's poring rain right now, I'll have to get back to you on the pic.

 

[sb47]

If there is a way to get the same type chain in bulk roles and the tools and parts to make up chains. How and where would I get them? Chain I'm using is 26RM - 81 Part # 3686-005-0081

 

[farmer steve]

If there is a way to get the same type chain in bulk roles and the tools and parts to make up chains. How and where would I get them? Chain I'm using is 26RM - 81 Part # 3686-005-0081

I believe the sthil dealer can/could get chain in bulk. Baileys sells the tools. Probably other places too.

 

[farmer steve]

This a pic from my 2 year old Baileys catalog to give you an idea of price.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

If there is a way to get the same type chain in bulk roles and the tools and parts to make up chains. How and where would I get them? Chain I'm using is 26RM - 81 Part # 3686-005-0081

Your Stihl agency that sells you loops can sell you chain rolls and all the tooling to take them apart and put them back together- but the fact of the matter is, if only using less than a dozen chains or so per annum- the tooling cost takes a long time to recover versus buying loops of the correct size. For only a few chains per season, you can break them with a grinder or file, new link rivets can be peened with a ball peen hammer- very simple cheap tooling that works just fine.

I kind of skipped over all the above replies, but A: count the drive links on the new chain and make sure they match the count on the new bar. B: compare old chain to new, hanging from the same nail and see if the new one is a link or two longer. C: do the same with the old bar/new bar.

 

[sb47]

Your Stihl agency that sells you loops can sell you chain rolls and all the tooling to take them apart and put them back together- but the fact of the matter is, if only using less than a dozen chains or so per annum- the tooling cost takes a long time to recover versus buying loops of the correct size. For only a few chains per season, you can break them with a grinder or file, new link rivets can be peened with a ball peen hammer- very simple cheap tooling that works just fine.

I kind of skipped over all the above replies, but A: count the drive links on the new chain and make sure they match the count on the new bar. B: compare old chain to new, hanging from the same nail and see if the new one is a link or two longer. C: do the same with the old bar/new bar.

I have asked several dealers in my area about the tools and parts to take chains apart and put them back together and none of them have them or can get them. I cut and split over 100 cords a year so I tend to go through a number of chains per year and If I'm only getting half life that doubles my chain count for the year. At 30+ bucks a loop it wouldn't take long to recoup my money.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

I have asked several dealers in my area about the tools and parts to take chains apart and put them back together and none of them have them or can get them. I cut and split over 100 cords a year so I tend to go through a number of chains per year and If I'm only getting half life that doubles my chain count for the year. At 30+ bucks a loop it wouldn't take long to recoup my money.

Then I suggest your dealers are being a bit tongue in cheek whilst telling you that- owing to the fact that if they DID supply you with such things- you would not be back to buy loops by the handful and they will miss the markup they add by turning 100'rolls of chain into loops out the back of the shop.

If you have old 72 drive link chains worn out that used to work a year ago- compare them to the new ones and see if they ain't 73 link, so you only get half the adjuster travel before you have to return to the shop and buy another new loop to repair the half worn one.
Or simply check count the DL's on the new chain loops and ensure they are selling you 72DL chains in the first place!

 

[HarleyT]

I have a setup similar to this, but I never bother using the punch/breaker, only the spinner.

 

[Overlooker]

I'd like to learn how to do this since I have several chains with a similar problem. Source of 'repair link'? Photos of process?

"The Chainsaw Guy shop talk chain repair" on Toutube is a good how-to video. I get my repair links from my local Stihl dealer for about $2. I use my vise instead of the pocket tool he uses in the video. O

 

[sb47]

Then I suggest your dealers are being a bit tongue in cheek whilst telling you that- owing to the fact that if they DID supply you with such things- you would not be back to buy loops by the handful and they will miss the markup they add by turning 100'rolls of chain into loops out the back of the shop.

If you have old 72 drive link chains worn out that used to work a year ago- compare them to the new ones and see if they ain't 73 link, so you only get half the adjuster travel before you have to return to the shop and buy another new loop to repair the half worn one.
Or simply check count the DL's on the new chain loops and ensure they are selling you 72DL chains in the first place!

I'm sure you are correct about the dealers. I'm sure most people in my area are weekend worriers that don't cut a lot of wood. When the rain lets I'll head back out to the shop and count the links on some of my old chains.

 

[sb47]

"The Chainsaw Guy shop talk chain repair" on Toutube is a good how-to video. I get my repair links from my local Stihl dealer for about $2. I use my vise instead of the pocket tool he uses in the video. O

Looks easy enough. Thanks.

 

[SteveSr]

I have all the oilers cranked up on all my saws.

This is a good start. If the sprocket is new and the bar tip is good you might have excessive bar rail wear caused by insufficient oil and cutting with a somewhat dull and/or sharpened chain. Is the bar getting hot when you are cutting bar buried? This would be a clue.

What kind of bar oil are you using? Assuming that both oil and gas tanks start at full how much oil is left when the gas tank is empty?

The newer Stihl oilers are kind of known for being stingy with oil. On top of that sawdust that gets into the oil tank can collect in the oil pump and significantly reduce the oil flow. The metal pumps can usually be disassembled and cleaned out. The best thing to do is to brush off the area around the oil cap with a 1" paint brush before opening.

 

[sb47]

This is a good start. If the sprocket is new and the bar tip is good you might have excessive bar rail wear caused by insufficient oil and cutting with a somewhat dull and/or sharpened chain. Is the bar getting hot when you are cutting bar buried? This would be a clue.

What kind of bar oil are you using? Assuming that both oil and gas tanks start at full how much oil is left when the gas tank is empty?

The newer Stihl oilers are kind of known for being stingy with oil. On top of that sawdust that gets into the oil tank can collect in the oil pump and significantly reduce the oil flow. The metal pumps can usually be disassembled and cleaned out. The best thing to do is to brush off the area around the oil cap with a 1" paint brush before opening.

I get the same result even with all brand new parts. New bar, sprocket and chain. So it's not an oiling issue.

 

[ChasSC]

SB
Do you have an old bar you can compare the length, holes and slots with the new bar? Maybe it's the bar itself and not the chain?

 

[dboyd351]

buy a loop of chain from a different manufacturer and check the fit

 

[HarleyT]

Running the new chain on an old wore out sprocket quickly damages the "new" chain.

 

[John Stryker]

Granberg Break-n-Mend is what I use to make my loops. It is a handheld breaker-spinner that you could use to take out a link. I re-use the rivets and side plates if I'm careful. Also a punch and ball-peen hammer could do the job.

 

[dave ensign]

Did the new sprocket have the same number of teeth as the old one?

 

[Trailsawyer]

I blow out my sprocket nose bars all the time with air and it does not harm anything. They are already spinning 13,000 rpm's or more when on the saw.

If your 7 tooth drive sprocket is running at 13,000 rpm the 11 tooth bar nose sprocket is "only" turning about 8,300 rpm.

 

[3000 FPS]

If your 7 tooth drive sprocket is running at 13,000 rpm the 11 tooth bar nose sprocket is "only" turning about 8,300 rpm.

OK. I was just making a point that using compressed air to blow out the sprocket nose does not hurt anything.
So no argument here.