fearofpavement
Trying them all
Does anyone have any insight on the air filter issue I mentioned previously? Am I missing a part or else, how is the filter retained?
Yikes, now I'm not sure what I bought!
- Thread starter fearofpavement
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roncoinc
Official Stihl Disser
On the carb.
you probly got the "wat" kit.
has stuff for the "wa" model and the "wt" model.
black rectangle rubber fuel pump goes next to carb body then gasket.
round gasket on other side goes next to carb body and round rubber diaphram with center button to meter lever on last.
metering lever flush with surrounding area.
pull low needle and squirt some carb cleaner in,you should see it come out little holes in carb throat,if not your idle circuit is dirty.clogged and you wont get an idle.
start with screws 1 1/4 turn out and should run "ok".
get it to stay running as slow as you can and turn saw slowly to both sides.an air leak will change rpm's of the saw if in the seals.
hope this is of some help and i havent been redundant.
you probly got the "wat" kit.
has stuff for the "wa" model and the "wt" model.
black rectangle rubber fuel pump goes next to carb body then gasket.
round gasket on other side goes next to carb body and round rubber diaphram with center button to meter lever on last.
metering lever flush with surrounding area.
pull low needle and squirt some carb cleaner in,you should see it come out little holes in carb throat,if not your idle circuit is dirty.clogged and you wont get an idle.
start with screws 1 1/4 turn out and should run "ok".
get it to stay running as slow as you can and turn saw slowly to both sides.an air leak will change rpm's of the saw if in the seals.
hope this is of some help and i havent been redundant.
ncfarmboy
Addicted to ArboristSite
fearofpavement
Trying them all
Thanks ronco for the carb tips. I blew carb cleaner through all the orifices and they all appeared clear, I will check the metering rod level (I think that is how i put it)
I will also review the carb assembly. I have instructions and followed those, they just weren't as clear as they could have been.
Regarding the air filter, mine has a captive screw but the screw is over the bore of the carb when installed and nothing to screw it into. I also don't see how a filter would snap into position either.
Oh, after thoroughly reading the instructions today it stated to not run the saw without the bar and chain installed as the clutch may come off. Doh!
I will also review the carb assembly. I have instructions and followed those, they just weren't as clear as they could have been.
Regarding the air filter, mine has a captive screw but the screw is over the bore of the carb when installed and nothing to screw it into. I also don't see how a filter would snap into position either.
Oh, after thoroughly reading the instructions today it stated to not run the saw without the bar and chain installed as the clutch may come off. Doh!
fearofpavement
Trying them all
In up to my elbows now
Well, I pulled the Husqvarna 55 saw apart today to do further investigation. I took another compression check and it was lower than before: 115 then 120 cold. So I decided to pull the cylinder. The piston is going to need replacing for sure. On the ring, the width of the ring is .065 near the ends and in the middle it is .032. I never saw a ring with that much wear (over 50% of the width) without breaking.
I do have the 46mm piston, and the cylinder and piston are both Mahle. There is some scoring in the cylinder. It is mostly below the exhaust port and I sanded on it some and took off any high spots. I am pretty sure it will be fine. The piston itself had a very worn skirt on one side. ie, one measurement on the bottom of the skirt was .065 and the other side of the piston skirt measured .029. Again, very significant wear. So my plan is to go with an aftermarket piston and ring, use the original Mahle cylinder. Oh, I should add that the cylinder wear seems very minimal with the piston installed upside down, there wasn't much clearance or out of round visible.
I will also need a clutch bearing, and I hope to get a 3/8 rim and .058 bar eventually so I can use up all those chains I have. Ironically, I also have a couple spare chains that will fit this saw so may not go with the bar and rim until I have used those up.
I think that the saw is pretty original other than the recoil. The filter issue just seems to be the incorrect one. So I guess I am going to need a filter too. Oh, and a chain brake set up or maybe just the whole cover/brake assembly.
Thanks to those who provide the useful info.
One other question, is the 51/55 series related to the later 55 Rancher? And is that what became the 455 Rancher?
Well, I pulled the Husqvarna 55 saw apart today to do further investigation. I took another compression check and it was lower than before: 115 then 120 cold. So I decided to pull the cylinder. The piston is going to need replacing for sure. On the ring, the width of the ring is .065 near the ends and in the middle it is .032. I never saw a ring with that much wear (over 50% of the width) without breaking.
I do have the 46mm piston, and the cylinder and piston are both Mahle. There is some scoring in the cylinder. It is mostly below the exhaust port and I sanded on it some and took off any high spots. I am pretty sure it will be fine. The piston itself had a very worn skirt on one side. ie, one measurement on the bottom of the skirt was .065 and the other side of the piston skirt measured .029. Again, very significant wear. So my plan is to go with an aftermarket piston and ring, use the original Mahle cylinder. Oh, I should add that the cylinder wear seems very minimal with the piston installed upside down, there wasn't much clearance or out of round visible.
I will also need a clutch bearing, and I hope to get a 3/8 rim and .058 bar eventually so I can use up all those chains I have. Ironically, I also have a couple spare chains that will fit this saw so may not go with the bar and rim until I have used those up.
I think that the saw is pretty original other than the recoil. The filter issue just seems to be the incorrect one. So I guess I am going to need a filter too. Oh, and a chain brake set up or maybe just the whole cover/brake assembly.
Thanks to those who provide the useful info.
One other question, is the 51/55 series related to the later 55 Rancher? And is that what became the 455 Rancher?
The 55 did evolve into the 55 rancher and parts are mostly interchangable. Some 55s had a closed port piston and cylinder where all ranchers were open port. The 455 replaced these saws in Husqavarna's line up but it is an entirely different saw. In the case of your cylinder wear, try a coating of muratic acid in between sandings to help soften the transferred aluminum and make sanding more productive. If there are any high spots left, you will be replacing your new ring shortly. If you can feel a raised place..................keep sanding. Good luck and let us know how it turns out. Ax.
fearofpavement
Trying them all
There was no metal transfer in the cylinder. It didn't look like it from studying the piston and cylinder both but I had run a little acid on it just to make sure and it is just scoring. I have the cylinder in satisfactory condition. The piston isn't so much scored up as it is worn down. It'll have to go as it served out its usefulness.
fearofpavement
Trying them all
whatsa closed port?
Could someone inform what a closed port vs open port is?
Could someone inform what a closed port vs open port is?
On a closed port cylinder there are 2 upper transfer windows above the standard ports and the piston has windows through it. These are a little more powerful due to the extra porting. This thread shows pictures of a closed port piston and cylinder.
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/167778.htm
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/167778.htm
MechanicMatt
Cut Split Stack Burn
fear, if you want to see it in person pull the cylinder off of your 026.
fearofpavement
Trying them all
I may do that someday if it ever needs it.
The photos were helpful that Roanoker had taken. I understand now. I have never encountered one that looked like that. Mine is the open port then.
fearofpavement
Trying them all
Making chips now.
Got it together and running today. Still waiting on a chain brake. Ran two tanks through it today. Found out that model is pretty worthless for noodling. It clogs within one second. Didn't buy it to noodle with, just needed something to cut and wasn't in a cookie mood. I shortened up some small logs I had lying around and adjusted the length of some almost too long wood. I have the saw idling now so apparently the failure of it to idle previously was due to the poor compression. I haven't rechecked that since running it. When I assembled it, the compression prior to running was about 115 but I figured the ring would seat in and I'd be getting something higher later. Sure hope so, it had that when I took it apart...
It was sure nice to hear it make noise. Gotta sharpen the chain now, dulled it on something. I wanna run one more tank through it before I consider it woods worthy.
Got it together and running today. Still waiting on a chain brake. Ran two tanks through it today. Found out that model is pretty worthless for noodling. It clogs within one second. Didn't buy it to noodle with, just needed something to cut and wasn't in a cookie mood. I shortened up some small logs I had lying around and adjusted the length of some almost too long wood. I have the saw idling now so apparently the failure of it to idle previously was due to the poor compression. I haven't rechecked that since running it. When I assembled it, the compression prior to running was about 115 but I figured the ring would seat in and I'd be getting something higher later. Sure hope so, it had that when I took it apart...
It was sure nice to hear it make noise. Gotta sharpen the chain now, dulled it on something. I wanna run one more tank through it before I consider it woods worthy.
Captain Crunch
ArboristSite Operative
Congrats on getting a classic running!
I have noodled a lot with mine, it plugs up some, but keeps cutting. I try to pull the back from the log as much as I can to leave a gap for the noodles to escape, helps on the 50 and the "big boss".
I have noodled a lot with mine, it plugs up some, but keeps cutting. I try to pull the back from the log as much as I can to leave a gap for the noodles to escape, helps on the 50 and the "big boss".
