Zama carb rebuild

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Well what do I have to do to get rid of 'Junior Member" My list of saws alone should get me up there a bit...how about guy that stabbed Saw Jesus with a spear? or Saw Judas
 
Your symptoms can be carb, but are most likely an air leak leading to loss of impluse. I'd be checking the impulse hose, crank seals, cylinder bolts, then manifold boot etc. A simple pressure test would identify anything except possibly seals - for those you'd need to test vacccum also.

Before you do anything though, check the the fuel hose inside and out of the tank, and the tenk vent.

So the fuel line didn't hold vaccum, no idea how to check other problems. HELP!
 
ok, what do I need to test? did the fuel line...didn't hold vacuum...what next? How so?
 
The short answer... and assuming you don't have a carb manifold test block.

You need to loosen the muffler and carb, slip a rubber down behind each and retighten. Move the impulse connection away from the carb first. Plug your pressure tester into the exposed impulse line and pump the engine up to 8lb. It should not leak. The repeat with your vac tester to -6lb - should not leak. If it leaks on pressure, use soapy water to find the leak. If it leaks on vac, but not pressure, put oil on the crank seals and it will either stop leaking or get sucked into the engine. Rotate the crank while performing the latter.

If you have a a decomp valve, remove it first and plug the hole. You can get the plug from your stihl dealer.
 
The short answer... and assuming you don't have a carb manifold test block.

You need to loosen the muffler and carb, slip a rubber down behind each and retighten. Move the impulse connection away from the carb first. Plug your pressure tester into the exposed impulse line and pump the engine up to 8lb. It should not leak. The repeat with your vac tester to -6lb - should not leak. If it leaks on pressure, use soapy water to find the leak. If it leaks on vac, but not pressure, put oil on the crank seals and it will either stop leaking or get sucked into the engine. Rotate the crank while performing the latter.

If you have a a decomp valve, remove it first and plug the hole. You can get the plug from your stihl dealer.

this guy knows what he talking about i need to check this on my 020t stihl that has isssues i have started a thread on it but this helps more than the thread so far.:greenchainsaw:
 

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