Newbie Looking for Advice (or reassurance)....

[brtt485]

The only time I needed to take a saw to a shop is when it got crushed by a tree, and none of them said it was worth fixing so I went on line and found a new tank handle myself (also new bar/chain, and I straightened out the handle [almost like new]).

There is almost nothing you will need to get from a dealer than you can not get on line.

This is kind of what I was thinking but if there is a good shop close, it would make sense.

 

[malk315]

Great info! I will definitely give them a call. Thank you!

I bought my 372XP X-torq saw there in 2012 and a friend of mine picked up an MS460 at the same time so they gave us a good deal. I think I paid $780 w/ no tax w/ 24" B/C included for my saw (I think anything under $800 at the time for the 372 is a good price). The 460 is a 76CC saw I believe -- the 440 is more comparable to 372. If you search for threads started by me you can see the whole story from when the 372 had it's fuel in issue -- I've got a picture of the old line showing the collapse on it.

I was looking closely at the 357XP at the time and very happy I went with the 372 instead.
If you are liking the 550 you might want to try a 562 since as an all around saw you can do light felling, limbing, firewood all day but have a bit more power and 20" bar is nice for that occasional bigger stuff.
Again I like larger saws (I'm a big guy 6' 3' and pushing 300 lbs) so I enjoy the comfort of 24" bar when bucking. Whenever I pickup a 346 or the 350 and start cutting something up I miss the comfort of not bending over as much w/ the 372 even though the 372 is heavy. If I'm picking the saw up to waist level or higher for limbing a tree top section and a 346 / 350 / 262 is handy I reach for those as the arms become jello slinging a 372 around all way. The guys that do this daily can probably use a 372 as their goto saw but I'm a desk jockey... writing software pays my bills and allows me to own some toys... err... saws.

If you aren't far from Lancaster, MA at anytime you are welcome to come by and try some of our saws. A good 346 should compare well to a 550, the 262 is on Randy's bench today getting the works... so that saw will be more of an animal than a stock 562XP. And the 372 if you get into a round that you can bury the bar you might catch CAD after you are up to your knees in chips.

If you are a newbie like I'm thinking you are -- learn how to sharpen (I recommend hand file since you can do it anywhere). There is nothing like taking a really strong saw that you can barely push thorugh the wood making dust and give a once over w/ a good file and raker setting -- go back at it and chips are everywhere it will always put a smile on your face.

 

[MustangMike]

No doubt, a sharp chain makes your saw look strong!

 

[SEAM]

...my research here has led me to believe that a saw from the 'pro lines' is more likely to yield a lifetime tool I can use 15 years from now and beyond or can hand down to my son for his use.

So, my research and $600 budget have led me to the Husky 550XP and the Stihl MS 261 C-M.

If "lifetime tool" is a prerequisite, I doubt you'll be happy with a modern saw. I prefer saws from the 90s over any saw after 2002 (give or take a few years) as manufacturers were not able to predetermine obsolescence as precisely as nowadays.
Your budget would probably allow you to acquire a nice combo of used saws in the 40 and 60 cc classes...

 

[Philip Wheelock]

... if there is a good shop close, it would make sense.

I've found my local dealer to be the best source of information on maintenance, repair, etc.

 

[MustangMike]

I think both the new & old saws will last a long time. Many of the new saws have the technology to make tuning the carb obsolete, and they also have technology that will keep the air cleaner "cleaner", and better AV technology. Also, the new air cleaners are more efficient, and I've upgraded all my older saws with HD-2 filters. It does make a difference in performance.

As much as I like my 044s and 046, I like my 362-C just as much, and I don't see any signs it will not last as long. I also don't have to clean the air filter as frequently, a plus.

 

[brtt485]

I bought my 372XP X-torq saw there in 2012 and a friend of mine picked up an MS460 at the same time so they gave us a good deal. I think I paid $780 w/ no tax w/ 24" B/C included for my saw (I think anything under $800 at the time for the 372 is a good price). The 460 is a 76CC saw I believe -- the 440 is more comparable to 372. If you search for threads started by me you can see the whole story from when the 372 had it's fuel in issue -- I've got a picture of the old line showing the collapse on it.

I was looking closely at the 357XP at the time and very happy I went with the 372 instead.
If you are liking the 550 you might want to try a 562 since as an all around saw you can do light felling, limbing, firewood all day but have a bit more power and 20" bar is nice for that occasional bigger stuff.
Again I like larger saws (I'm a big guy 6' 3' and pushing 300 lbs) so I enjoy the comfort of 24" bar when bucking. Whenever I pickup a 346 or the 350 and start cutting something up I miss the comfort of not bending over as much w/ the 372 even though the 372 is heavy. If I'm picking the saw up to waist level or higher for limbing a tree top section and a 346 / 350 / 262 is handy I reach for those as the arms become jello slinging a 372 around all way. The guys that do this daily can probably use a 372 as their goto saw but I'm a desk jockey... writing software pays my bills and allows me to own some toys... err... saws.

If you aren't far from Lancaster, MA at anytime you are welcome to come by and try some of our saws. A good 346 should compare well to a 550, the 262 is on Randy's bench today getting the works... so that saw will be more of an animal than a stock 562XP. And the 372 if you get into a round that you can bury the bar you might catch CAD after you are up to your knees in chips.

If you are a newbie like I'm thinking you are -- learn how to sharpen (I recommend hand file since you can do it anywhere). There is nothing like taking a really strong saw that you can barely push thorugh the wood making dust and give a once over w/ a good file and raker setting -- go back at it and chips are everywhere it will always put a smile on your face.

I apologize for the delayed response, I was traveling for the long weekend. This is some very good info. I like the idea of a bigger more powerful saw but I dont see the 562 falling into my budget. Keep in mind, I started my research with a 455 Rancher budget!

I appreciate the offer to test the saws and as much as I would like to, a trip to Lancaster isnt likely to happen. Unforunately, because something tells me would get along just fine!

You're thinking of me as a newbie in that light is right on! I have a lot to learn and am looking forward to it.

 

[malk315]

No worries on delayed response at all.
I still consider myself quite the greenhorn too just sharing what I've learned from my own experience.
I used to rely on a dealer w/ a grinder to sharpen or have my brother do it for me but now I've gotten a little more "mad scientist" about it -- trying to be precise with the cutters using one of Homelite410's chain vises along w/ a husky roller guide --it makes running saws that much more fun.

Certainly let everyone know on here what you end up with -- post pictures.

Good luck.

 

[brtt485]

Ok, so I am making progress. I am going Husky! Unfortunately for me and my budget, malk315 has talked me into including the 562XP though I would be very appreciative of someone who could convince me it inst necessary compared to the other 2!

Here is where I am at: http://www.husqvarna.com/us/product...ffesional-chainsaws/?nid=502135,502061,502808

My understanding is that the 555 is a slighly 'detuned' 562XP much like a 545 is a slightly 'detuned' 550XP and there are some obvious differences here, power, weight, bar length (I would go 18" on the 550XP and 20" on the 562XP or 555), but there are some other differences I was hoping you guys could chime in on:

• RevBoost - of the 3 saws, it is only on the 562XP. What's your take on the cost vs the performance increase?
• Combined choke/stop control - I am assuming this is not something to base a decision on and simply means one saw may have two separate controls for the choke and kill switch while the XP saws use the same control for both. Am I wrong here?
• One item in particular I was hoping for some feedback on was the 'Oil pump type', the 550XP says 'Automatic' whereas the 555 and 562XP say 'Adjustable flow'. Can someone elaborate on the differences between the two systems before I jump to conclusions?
• Weight - there is a 2.2lb weight difference between the lightest and heaviest of the 3 saws. This certainly doesnt seem like much but I am guessing it is significant as it represents an almost 20% weight difference! Thoughts on this knowing that full days spent using the saw are going to be scarce if ever?

Again, I appreciate and value everyone's input and I may be beating this to death but I just so happen to be a very analytical person who digs into these things before making a purchase decision.

 

[MustangMike]

Go by wts that members have posted, the wts on the website are wrong and change.

 

[CentaurG2]

The only real saw shop I know of in MA is in Essex. You will find MPP inc with a search of the stihl web site. They are the only stihl dealer in Essex. Might be worth your time checking them out and you can always grab some clams. Plenty of shops in NH as mentioned and you avoid MA tax.

In all honesty, for what you say you are trying to do, a quality bow saw (Bahco) and/or a good handsaw (silky) and a pair of loppers might really be all you need. If you have a Home despot in the area, you could rent a chainsaw for a day ($50) if you had any major trees you wanted to remove or block up.

 

[gomoto69]

I haven't used any of the saws you mention, but i will say after a lifetime of buying tools and equipment, even boots, that the times i pay more initially for something that is of higher quality, i am rarely disappointed, and the times i buy lesser quality to save a dollar, i am almost always disappointed, you can't go wrong spending a bit more for a tool designed and built to be used daily by pros, whether its a wrench, a pair of boots, or a chainsaw

 

[brtt485]

I haven't used any of the saws you mention, but i will say after a lifetime of buying tools and equipment, even boots, that the times i pay more initially for something that is of higher quality, i am rarely disappointed, and the times i buy lesser quality to save a dollar, i am almost always disappointed, you can't go wrong spending a bit more for a tool designed and built to be used daily by pros, whether its a wrench, a pair of boots, or a chainsaw

I couldnt agree more and this is the main reason I am here gathering the info I need!

 

[OnTheRoad]

Ok, so I am making progress. I am going Husky! Unfortunately for me and my budget, malk315 has talked me into including the 562XP though I would be very appreciative of someone who could convince me it inst necessary compared to the other 2!

Here is where I am at: http://www.husqvarna.com/us/product...ffesional-chainsaws/?nid=502135,502061,502808

My understanding is that the 555 is a slighly 'detuned' 562XP much like a 545 is a slightly 'detuned' 550XP and there are some obvious differences here, power, weight, bar length (I would go 18" on the 550XP and 20" on the 562XP or 555), but there are some other differences I was hoping you guys could chime in on:

• RevBoost - of the 3 saws, it is only on the 562XP. What's your take on the cost vs the performance increase?
• Combined choke/stop control - I am assuming this is not something to base a decision on and simply means one saw may have two separate controls for the choke and kill switch while the XP saws use the same control for both. Am I wrong here?
• One item in particular I was hoping for some feedback on was the 'Oil pump type', the 550XP says 'Automatic' whereas the 555 and 562XP say 'Adjustable flow'. Can someone elaborate on the differences between the two systems before I jump to conclusions?
• Weight - there is a 2.2lb weight difference between the lightest and heaviest of the 3 saws. This certainly doesnt seem like much but I am guessing it is significant as it represents an almost 20% weight difference! Thoughts on this knowing that full days spent using the saw are going to be scarce if ever?

Again, I appreciate and value everyone's input and I may be beating this to death but I just so happen to be a very analytical person who digs into these things before making a purchase decision.

Revboost is a marketing gimmick.

I can only speak to the saws I own so I'll compare the 550 and 562.

When they are sitting side by side without bars it's difficult to tell the difference from 15 feet away. Holding one and then the other, again without bars, the difference in weight is barely discernable. Running both of them in wood, the difference is obvious immediately. The 562 is an absolute beast. The 550 is strong but they are a long ways apart in bigger wood.

For you, the 555 is probably the ticket. I only got the pro saw because I wanted it. Rational decision making goes out the window when I want something. Check out pricing on the bay. I got my 562 plus the hard case for $170 less than the local dealer and since they had to order it, the delivery time was the same.

 

[brtt485]

I only got the pro saw because I wanted it. Rational decision making goes out the window when I want something.

I know this feeling all too well!

I can only speak to the saws I own so I'll compare the 550 and 562.
When they are sitting side by side without bars it's difficult to tell the difference from 15 feet away. Holding one and then the other, again without bars, the difference in weight is barely discernable. Running both of them in wood, the difference is obvious immediately. The 562 is an absolute beast. The 550 is strong but they are a long ways apart in bigger wood.

Thanks for the input. I like to be a 'buy the right one' the first time around kind of guy. My take is that the 562 will do anything the 550 can and then some but that doesnt work the other way around. Problem is my budget!

 

[OnTheRoad]

I know this feeling all too well!


Thanks for the input. I like to be a 'buy the right one' the first time around kind of guy. My take is that the 562 will do anything the 550 can and then some but that doesnt work the other way around. Problem is my budget!

Well, if you're like me you know what to do. You'll never be happy if you don't buy the biggest baddest saw you can possibly justify. That's the 562.

The 550 is a great saw, make no mistake. Truthfully, the best setup is a 70cc (372xp) and 50cc (550xp) but for one saw the 60cc (562xp) is the move. And frankly for a homeowner, anything that a 562 can't handle should be outsourced.

 

[brtt485]

Well, if you're like me you know what to do. You'll never be happy if you don't buy the biggest baddest saw you can possibly justify. That's the 562.

The 550 is a great saw, make no mistake. Truthfully, the best setup is a 70cc (372xp) and 50cc (550xp) but for one saw the 60cc (562xp) is the move. And frankly for a homeowner, anything that a 562 can't handle should be outsourced.

DAMN IT!

 

[gomoto69]

Get the xp! I don't know the price difference, but what, like $200 at the most? Spread that out over how long you plan to have the saw, at least 10 years, so $20 dollars a year, maybe you cut wood only 10 days per year, an extra $2 each time you're out? Pretty good deal for a more powerful, higher quality tool! I'm very good at justifying spending a little more upfront for my own stuff, just thought i would pass my techniques along to you! Feel free to adjust the numbers in my estimate to fit your situation! Oh i almost forgot, resale value is always higher on the xp models, when u decide the bigger xp models are what you 'need' next!

 

[brtt485]

Get the xp! I don't know the price difference, but what, like $200 at the most? Spread that out over how long you plan to have the saw, at least 10 years, so $20 dollars a year, maybe you cut wood only 10 days per year, an extra $2 each time you're out? Pretty good deal for a more powerful, higher quality tool! I'm very good at justifying spending a little more upfront for my own stuff, just thought i would pass my techniques along to you! Feel free to adjust the numbers in my estimate to fit your situation! Oh i almost forgot, resale value is always higher on the xp models, when u decide the bigger xp models are what you 'need' next!

DAMN IT!

 

[malk315]

This is great -- he's got ya thinking! Only other thing I could recommend is to go to a dealer and test run both saws in some wood out back or whatever.
You said your budget is $600 -- if you can get the saw in NH there will be no tax so I would think it would be under $700 with 20" bar and chain since the retail is $740 and I couldn't imagine paying full retail price.
I would think $675 with bar and chain would be a good price and $650 could be a great price.

Quick google search I'm seeing 555's going for around $650 and 562's going for around $700 but one or two places $650... they are really close in price I think... street prices seem to be w/in $50 of each other, not $100 but I could be wrong.

Did you get any quotes from dealers like Chapel in NH? They should give you some prices over the phone I would think.

OnTheRoad thinks exactly like me -- he's right a 70cc + 50cc is a great two saw plan, he's confirmed w/ direct experience the 60cc is a great one saw plan.
My first 10 years of running saws was a one saw plan -- the 262XP at 62CC.
Now I'm at a 3 saw plan... something like 9 saws when you put mine and my brother's together....

Good luck!