Newbie Looking for Advice (or reassurance)....

[johnny5ny]

I gotta say BA-your persistance is impressive, but you're getting easier and easier to spot...

 

[OnTheRoad]

I gotta say BA-your persistance is impressive, but you're getting easier and easier to spot...

Is this Butt Rape again? Pathetic loser with a serious mental issue to spend the effort he does trolling this site. Wonder which one of his parents touched him in his special place when he was young.

 

[anlrolfe]

It sounds like this OPE is going to sit for long time between useage. As a side note, you may want to stock up on ethanol free pre-mix gas and run the saws dry before storage. Concerning storage, you may want to consider a ConEx box for the property. Not sure what you've got for storage/cabin on site but these transit containers are all but brinks truck security. Keep most of your camping gear and perhaps 4-wheelers there and save some hauling back & forth. People do some really creative stuff with these boxes. Drop it on some level gravel and your set for years of trouble free storage. As far as saws go, I'd go for >50cc class saw and some kind of multi-tool/combi-system that can accept a pole saw and string/brush trimmer. I think this will be helpful for your trail clearing as well as opening "fields of fire" for hunting. Until you find a real dealer grab something cheap off the shelf with a complement of spare bar(s) and chains. Remember that a spare bar is almost as good as a spare saw if you get pinched.

 

[brtt485]

I like Stihl, and would recommend the MS261C. Also take a look at the Echo CS590 and CS620P.

I do like the Echos but for some reason am drawn to either the Stihl or Husky. I like the M-Tronic and AutoTune features. May seem trinkety, if you will, to some but something I would like to have.

The dealer makes all the difference, I've found. Maybe there's a good one near your NH property or on the way there? We're fortunate in Uxbridge (MA) to have two good dealers in town; one sells Stihl and the other sells Husky & Echo.

I own a non-Mtronic MS261 and have demo'd a 550xp at the Husky shop and would be happy with either one. The MS261 is one pound heavier, has a great air filter system, runs reliably with excellent power, and not required repairs in the two years I've owned it, except for a broken chain brake lever after it got clipped by some falling wood. The 550xp handles like a dream and spools up quicker than the MS261. I like the Husky oil/fuel cap design better; the Stihl caps can be fussy and the fuel caps tend to leak after awhile. My preference for 50cc saws is a 16" bar/chain for all-around balance and handling for limbing, bucking and felling. 24"ø Oak is doable if need be.

Also, you will need a backup saw for the inevitable pinched bar or breakdown. 75 acres isn't exactly a carrot patch...

This is good info, thank you. I know Uxbridge, we take the kids to the Southwick Zoo. Any thoughts on how the Husky air filter systems differs or is inferior to the Stihl?

I wouldnt disregard the Husqvarna 555. Similar to the 562xp but for a closer price to the 550xp. I have the 555 and while I like the inboard clutch of the 261, the 555 revs faster and I think holds the speed better through the cut. For the limited time that I am dealing with the outboard clutch in the 555 it does not bother me. I have bucked up a 34 inch maple using mine with a 20" bar. I know it would be faster with a larger saw but I only would need a larger saw once or twice a year.

That said you would be fine with either of the saws that you mentioned.

So this is interesting because I printed out info on this saw as well. From the comparison sheet online, it appears the only differences in features between the 550xp and the 555 is the combined choke/stop control and the oil pump. As a newbie, you lost me at the clutch differences. Can you explain?

Very first saw I bought was back in 1994, a Husky, and it cost me a little more than $400. I remember that as my wife was furious over how much I spent. My BIL still has it running.
I bought off ebay because the Husky dealer here didn't know anything about larger pro-grade saws. It wasn't a case of being rude or laziness, they just never sold a saw larger than 50cc I guess. People around here don't have a lot of money, so a small less-spendy saw sells.
I bought a trashed 394 that still ran, bought some parts off Partree.com, and found this place. I lurked for a year or two but by then CAD had bittten.
You don't really need a dealer; though they are useful if you need parts and they have them in stock.
Just get a saw, get the repair manual (Husky has them online), and get to cutting. Anything happens, you can get the answer on here.

This is one of the things pulling me towards Husky, the availability of parts. And I have found with even basic mechanical skill the knowledge in these forums can help you get the fix done!

It sure sounds like the dealer you spoke to was a certain TrueValue hardware store north of Boston and IMO you'll be better off calling dealers along the I-93 corridor between Salem and Manchester NH. If your property is somewhere near the Lake Sunapee area there is also a Husqvarna dealer around Chester VT that a few locals I'd met swore by although I've never been there or dealt with them personally so take that with a big grain of salt.
What's the typical size and type of tree on your lot?
I have 2 x 550XP and while I have both 16" and 20" bars I almost always use the 16" because the balance of the combo is so good and don't find much use for the longer bar unless I am limbing. With a $600 budget I'd suggest you look at a 545 instead of a 550XP and use the $100 saved to get some proper PPE. You should have just about enough left over in your budget to be able to also pick up a 20" bar with chain if you really wanted one.

You nailed the hardware store. I live in Wilmington and they have always been great about household stuff, I just dont think these saws are something they sell many of.

My property is just north of Keene so I will check and see what dealer options are in Keene. It seems to me based on opinions here that dealer is very important and I understand why but if I were to buy a saw from a sponsor on here then either fix problems myself as they arise or if need be bring it to a dealer I didn't buy it from, would that be of concern?

Based on your use of both a 16" and a 20", would an 18" be a good compromise if only buying 1 saw or can you not really look at it that way?

Is this Butt Rape again? Pathetic loser with a serious mental issue to spend the effort he does trolling this site. Wonder which one of his parents touched him in his special place when he was young.

Being new to the site I am going to assume this is an 'inside joke' of sorts?

It sounds like this OPE is going to sit for long time between useage. As a side note, you may want to stock up on ethanol free pre-mix gas and run the saws dry before storage. Concerning storage, you may want to consider a ConEx box for the property. Not sure what you've got for storage/cabin on site but these transit containers are all but brinks truck security. Keep most of your camping gear and perhaps 4-wheelers there and save some hauling back & forth. People do some really creative stuff with these boxes. Drop it on some level gravel and your set for years of trouble free storage. As far as saws go, I'd go for >50cc class saw and some kind of multi-tool/combi-system that can accept a pole saw and string/brush trimmer. I think this will be helpful for your trail clearing as well as opening "fields of fire" for hunting. Until you find a real dealer grab something cheap off the shelf with a complement of spare bar(s) and chains. Remember that a spare bar is almost as good as a spare saw if you get pinched.

Sorry, when in the office I can respond quickly but once I leave here its pretty much daddy duty until I get back to the office the next day! The ConEx box idea is a great one. In fact, when we first bought the property that was our plan. Rig up a couple of bunks, plenty of storage, and secure as can be. Problem was accessibility. They arent readiy available here, as far as we could find, and then the transport cost to get them to the middle of nowhere where we are didnt make sense. We bought a 38' travel trailer circa 1988, parked it, leveled it out on blocks and it will do until we build our barn/shed/loft.

 

[brtt485]

Took the advice of Philip Wheelock and looked into some NH dealers. Does anyone have any experience with Bunten's Saw Shop in Concord, NH?

 

[Philip Wheelock]

...This is good info, thank you. I know Uxbridge, we take the kids to the Southwick Zoo. Any thoughts on how the Husky air filter systems differs or is inferior to the Stihl?...

My property is just north of Keene so I will check and see what dealer options are in Keene. It seems to me based on opinions here that dealer is very important and I understand why but if I were to buy a saw from a sponsor on here then either fix problems myself as they arise or if need be bring it to a dealer I didn't buy it from, would that be of concern?

Based on your use of both a 16" and a 20", would an 18" be a good compromise if only buying 1 saw or can you not really look at it that way?

I just know that the air filter system on my MS261 is way better than my other Stihl saws. Haven't heard of any particular issues with the filtration on the current Husky saws, though; not sure if there's that much difference.
Some folks are interested in learning about saw repair and find satisfaction in repairing their saws; others, like me, would rather be cutting. So it depends on your preference. As far as finding information on this site, for every member who really knows his/her stuff, there are twenty who will waste your time with useless advice. Something to consider.
As far as bar size, it depends a bit on your cutting style. A 16" bar balances well on my MS261 front-back and is seems about right for burying the bar in hardwood. Handier for limbing, too. For 20" ø and up, I use a 70cc saw w/20" bar (hardwood) or 25" bar (softwood).

 

[brtt485]

I just know that the air filter system on my MS261 is way better than my other Stihl saws. Haven't heard of any particular issues with the filtration on the current Husky saws, though; not sure if there's that much difference.
Some folks are interested in learning about saw repair and find satisfaction in repairing their saws; others, like me, would rather be cutting. So it depends on your preference. As far as finding information on this site, for every member who really knows his/her stuff, there are twenty who will waste your time with useless advice. Something to consider.
As far as bar size, it depends a bit on your cutting style. A 16" bar balances well on my MS261 front-back and is seems about right for burying the bar while stumping hardwood. Handier for limbing, too. For 20" ø and up, I use a 70cc saw w/20" bar (hardwood) or 25" bar (softwood).

Again, thank you for the info. I think I might stick with the 18" bar as a compromise. I do like to tinker and learn how to repair/fix things, I figure in the long run I get my kids able to do things on their own and outdoors away from video games.

 

[Philip Wheelock]

...Does anyone have any experience with Bunten's Saw Shop in Concord, NH?

Sounds promising. Explain your situation, let them make suggestions & see whether it all makes sense.

 

[brtt485]

Sounds promising. Explain your situation, let them make suggestions & see whether it all makes sense.

Around here, I figure any place with "Saw Shop" in their name is going to be better than what I have come across so far!

 

[MustangMike]

Both the saws you are considering are excellent and will meet your needs, but don't overlook the 60 cc saws either. A little heavier & more money, but they will also cut faster. The Echo is generally a good saw, less expensive, but a little less performance/wt.

You can get parts for anything on the internet, and the knowledge on this site is priceless.

I think you should go to the stores and heft (or use if possible) the saws you are considering, then make your decision.

The external clutch (Husky) is said to balance better, but it makes it more difficult to change the chain (in must go over the clutch) and far more difficult to remove your power head if your bar gets pinched in the cut. Something that may be a consideration working in remote locations.

Either saw should give you many years of trouble free use.

 

[brtt485]

The external clutch (Husky) is said to balance better, but it makes it more difficult to change the chain (in must go over the clutch) and far more difficult to remove your power head if your bar gets pinched in the cut. Something that may be a consideration working in remote locations.

Understood. Thank you for explaining.

 

[FlyingDutchman]

I'd say shop more by weight and chain than just the saw. If. You got two saws, it would be nice if bars clutches and chains exchanged but this is rare to find with a mid/small and a big saw. Are you driving around with a truck or carrying the saw?

From my experience with my crappy property, you need three tools to wreck the jungle. Straight shaft trimmer with a saw blade on, smaller hedge trimmer for blazing trails into the thorns, and a smaller chainsaw with safety chain. Heavy brush is dangerous to run a big saw in. All my close calls are in the brush and moving to a small saw that doesn't kick I believe has saved me from injury. Clearing snagging underbrush with the trimmers increases the safety.

Speaking of that, does the 600 budget include chain files, chaps, ear protection?

 

[brtt485]

I'd say shop more by weight and chain than just the saw. If. You got two saws, it would be nice if bars clutches and chains exchanged but this is rare to find with a mid/small and a big saw. Are you driving around with a truck or carrying the saw?

From my experience with my crappy property, you need three tools to wreck the jungle. Straight shaft trimmer with a saw blade on, smaller hedge trimmer for blazing trails into the thorns, and a smaller chainsaw with safety chain. Heavy brush is dangerous to run a big saw in. All my close calls are in the brush and moving to a small saw that doesn't kick I believe has saved me from injury. Clearing snagging underbrush with the trimmers increases the safety.

Speaking of that, does the 600 budget include chain files, chaps, ear protection?

No truck but ATV/Walking primarily. We generally machete our way through the brush/thorns but the 3 tools you mention above sounds like a better tactic!

The $600 does not include those other items. I have eye and ear protection and I assumed I would need to buy some accessories after the fact.

 

[nitehawk55]

What type and size of trees will you be cutting ? I always factor that into choosing the type of saw needed .

 

[brtt485]

What type and size of trees will you be cutting ? I always factor that into choosing the type of saw needed .

Mostly spruce, pine, birch, and some smaller hardwoods (10-20" diameter), and whatever else gets in the way.

 

[Cope1024]

Mostly spruce, pine, birch, and some smaller hardwoods (10-20" diameter), and whatever else gets in the way.

Stihl MS262/362 or the Husqvarna equivalent would do nicely.

 

[malk315]

As far as dealers go I can't say enough good about Chapel Tractor in Milford, NH. They service saws for logging companies, home owners, whatever -- they have a knowledgeable saw service dept. and took great care of my 372 when it had a stalling issue that they isolated to where the fuel line goes through the tank collapsing under vacuum. It was an intermittent / subtle sort of problem. They did every possible test (lower leak etc.) and after a new line all set -- saw is my favorite to run lots of power. They should have no problem handling autotune if they have to plug a laptop in.

What's nice about them is they are both a Stihl and Husky dealer. They have wood out back you can test cut and they will get you into the right saw.
I would think a 550XP or a 562XP would be a great match for your 75 acres in NH. 562 might be above budget, but I also love running my 262 which is also 60cc class. For whatever reason I enjoy running the bigger saws -- we have 346's and a 350 but really enjoy the 262 and 372. If it were me I would be into a 562XP.

Good luck!

 

[burnses]

First off I want to say that I am aware these kinds of questions have been asked plenty of times by people looking to buy a first or new saw but I felt some of my reasoning behind the direction I am leaning was unique to me and therefore wanted to see what input I could gather from this crowd and appreciate your thoughts in advance.

I am in my mid-thirties with 2 young kids. I live outside of Boston, MA and have no need for a chainsaw at home, however, I do own 75 acres in NH where we hunt, camp, maintain, etc... I have minimal time operating a chainsaw though it is something I have done before. I am handy, mechanically inclined and like buying the right tool the first time (budget conscience of course). That said here is where I am at:

I want an all around chainsaw, firewood, limbing, occasional felling/trail clearing and cutting. I want something light and easy to carry and maneuver. I like technology so the AutoTune/M-Tronic features are of interest. I have used a handful of 455 Ranchers, local friends and my father have that saw. Seems like a fine piece of equipment but my research here has led me to believe that a saw from the 'pro lines' is more likely to yield a lifetime tool I can use 15 years from now and beyond or can hand down to my son for his use.

So, my research and $600 budget have led me to the Husky 550XP and the Stihl MS 261 C-M. I originally had planned on a 20" bar but I have started leaning towards an 18" bar, also based on reading I have done on this site so any input there would be great as well. I know the Stihl vs Husky debate is akin to a Ford vs Chevy debate so that isn't what I am looking for. I am more interested in the features unique to these saws and if anyone has any reasoning as to why those features make one of these saws a better fit for me over the other. Keep in mind, the saw will more than likely stay in its stock form for its entire life.

Or, am I way off base and in need of considering other saws!!!

Given where I live, and the calls to local dealers I have made so far, I am not overly optimistic that either my Stihl or Husky dealer is going to sway the debate.

Thank you again in advance.

find the local chain saw shop closest to your property in nh and go with them....your gonna be taking it there when it needs to be fixed/serviced and you might as well get to know the locals as well when you really need some help...good to establish a relationship with the shop

good luck

 

[MustangMike]

The only time I needed to take a saw to a shop is when it got crushed by a tree, and none of them said it was worth fixing so I went on line and found a new tank handle myself (also new bar/chain, and I straightened out the handle [almost like new]).

There is almost nothing you will need to get from a dealer than you can not get on line.

 

[brtt485]

As far as dealers go I can't say enough good about Chapel Tractor in Milford, NH. They service saws for logging companies, home owners, whatever -- they have a knowledgeable saw service dept. and took great care of my 372 when it had a stalling issue that they isolated to where the fuel line goes through the tank collapsing under vacuum. It was an intermittent / subtle sort of problem. They did every possible test (lower leak etc.) and after a new line all set -- saw is my favorite to run lots of power. They should have no problem handling autotune if they have to plug a laptop in.

What's nice about them is they are both a Stihl and Husky dealer. They have wood out back you can test cut and they will get you into the right saw.
I would think a 550XP or a 562XP would be a great match for your 75 acres in NH. 562 might be above budget, but I also love running my 262 which is also 60cc class. For whatever reason I enjoy running the bigger saws -- we have 346's and a 350 but really enjoy the 262 and 372. If it were me I would be into a 562XP.

Good luck!

Great info! I will definitely give them a call. Thank you!