starting a MS361

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THALL10326 said:
Brad, Sawtroll, I'm surprize at both of ya. I would request you go take the air filter off your 361 and pull it all the way down in the choke position. Look at the choke flap, it will be fully closed. Come up one notch on the lever and watch the flap. It will open but not all the way. Now pull the trigger while watching the flap, it will then and only then open fully. Thats why we dealers call the first notch up on the lever half choke fast idle. True on most all Stihl's the choke flap opens fully once you raise the lever up one notch from choke. The 361 is one that does not, it does indeed have a half choke position. Thats why the 361 will load up on fuel and smoke in fast idle position. You have to get it off that position sooner than most Stihls. The 441 is the sameway, it too has a half choke position that doesn't open fully until the saw is in the idle position. The 441 choke flap barely opens at all on the fast idle position. Both the 361 and 441 will load up on fuel in the fast idle position because both are in half choke, though the 441 is close to being in the full choke even at one notch up. We at the shops just call that one notch up half choke fast idle to make it easy for everyone to understand.
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Sorry, thought it was like most other saws in that respect - with a streight fast idle......:greenchainsaw:

I never had any reason to look into it.
 
Good job Tommy! Saved me having to make that 361 half choked correction post... (which reminds me of a guy in Bankok!)

You get three Elvis stars.

:clap: MS361 junkies unite! :clap:
 
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blsnelling said:
I stand corrected. Sorry to disappoint you, lol:)
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LOL, I forgive ya. Fact is the real reason most dealers call that one step up half choke fast idle is due to how differant types of equipment other than chainsaws are started. We try to keep the starting procedure uniform throughout the entire line up as best we can. Alot of folks buy the saw, blower and trimmer, not just the saw. Explaining it as a four step process, choke, half choke fast idle, idle and off seem to cover the trimmers, blowers and saws pretty good...
 
windthrown said:
Good job Tommy! Saved me having to make that 361 half choked correction post... (which reminds me of a guy in Bankok!)

You get three Elvis stars.

:clap: MS361 junkies unite! :clap:
Click to expand...

Thankya , thankya very much. Someone fire up the Lisa Marie, we're going to Bankok,LOLOL
 
blsnelling said:
So does my 361 still have a half-choke position even with a 044 carb?:greenchainsaw:
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Does it have the David Carradine 044 carb model? If that's the case, the half choke will tend to slip to a full choke position (tha-dump-thud). Oh, and don't try to start it in the closet...
 
I work with a bunch of different saws at work, but the one I always have in the truck with me is a 361. Yes, it can be a bit temperamental at times, but it always runs. I've even used it in fires. Doesn't have the oomph of an 044/440 and I can't swing it around as long as I can a 260, but it's perfectly sufficient for a little of everything, which is pretty much what I need. I keep a 20" bar on it, with a 25" in reserve in case I need it. All in all, it's sort of The Little Saw That Could.
 
blsnelling said:
Jim's deaf, for real:) Well no wonder, lol:) Sorry, I didn't know that:cry: I have had stock 361s that were very hard to hear the pop on. As you said, harder than probably any other Stihl.

What do you think of this? So Jim is deaf? Let him pull the saw cold. You'll obviously be there to hear it pop. I bet when you tell him it popped he'll have felt it and be able to recognize it from then on. If you're just pulling my leg...we'll then you just got me good. That's OK too:)
Click to expand...

You got to go back and read the threads. Yeah I am deaf but I started the saw before when I had the first flooding. I know I had another flooding cuz I could smell the gas waffing about. Yesterday evening I went to start the saw again but I left the wet plug in the saw for two days. When I tried to start it I put the switch on the run position and cranked three times and the saw started (might add a puff of smoke came out of the saw...white/blue color and think this is normal?). I thought I had the procedure down when I got it running after the first flood. After a few days the saw flooded again and this is when I used the decomp. As someone said, the decomp maybe makes it harder to feel the pop? However I am able to see the decomp pop up...its real easy to see the difference when the decomp is pressed in as opposed to not being in.

I will try to start the saw again this evening but without the decomp and see if it starts better. Heck the saw is supposed to start better with the decomp but it appears to be the decomp is better suited for saws that are hard to pull. The 361 does not seem hard to pull at all but I will try it with the decomp and see how hard it is.

Question for you guys. Last night I started the saw (the decomp was still in from previous failure to start) and the postiton was run. How come I am able to start the saw without it being in the choke position (bottom position?) unless the flood was still there and the choke did not need to be set. Also when a saw is flooded I understand you got to clean the wet plug and try again but if you left the plug in, I presume the plug will dry after a day...apparently this is what happened to me.

Its not a problem if I got a flood saw especially if I can wait a day. But if I am in the field and encounter this flood issue...I would need to get it up and running pronto haha so I would have to try to clear up the flood.

Oh...yeah Tom did the demo saw and he would not let the saw out of his shop if he could not start it...kudos to that! Now the blame is squarely on me. No I am not digusted at this saw...its a beautiful saw that has a mind of its own....exactly like my wife... :)
 
THALL10326 said:
Well ya gotta remember Jim is deaf and can't hear the engine pop. Far as temperamental the 361 is the saw that comes back in my door flooded more times than any other pro Stihl. Each and every time its a first time buyer. Sometimes I think its due the 361 being so quiet even guys with good hearing do not catch that first pop and wind up flooding the saw. Tant no biggie though, all that come back flooded rarely ever come back with it flooded again. Must be that 20.00 per crank I charge,LOL
Click to expand...

Tom,

You make a good point. But I had a saw that I started previously (prolly 2 days before) and decided to try again. I pushed in the decomp and tried starting and the decomp did not pop out with 5 or 7 pulls. The decomp is my indicator. So if the decomp does not pop out in 2 or 3 pulls then should I move to the half choke? This is what threw me off...the decomp did not pop out and I think with more cranks it just flooded. So is it possible that the decomp will not pop and I can move from full choke to half choke and crank the saw? In my case and from numerous posts, I presume the saw will fire on the second or third pull but what if the decomp does not pop up after the third crank? Should I keep trying?

I will have to try this without the decomp...it may work better for me because simply when the full choke is on and two or three cranks I should move to half choke so not to flood the saw any more.
 
I don't listen

As you can see...I do not listen but I know I have felt the saw fire...it feels like it turned over a bit faster than the crank I gave it. But after much discussion I was using the decomp as my indicator. to me when the decomp does not release that means the saw did not fire...is that right? If the saw does not fire then the decomp does not pop up so that means I have to keep trying and the result...a saw flooded :cry:
 
tommy

Tommy...I will pay you a visit just to shoot the breeze. However I will saw that when the saw has run a bit and is hot it is easy to start 2 minutes later. The problem I have is starting a cold saw....come to think of maybe I'll put my baby next to my wife and see if it is easy to fire up :clap: :cheers:
 
LHJim said:
Tom,

You make a good point. But I had a saw that I started previously (prolly 2 days before) and decided to try again. I pushed in the decomp and tried starting and the decomp did not pop out with 5 or 7 pulls. The decomp is my indicator. So if the decomp does not pop out in 2 or 3 pulls then should I move to the half choke? This is what threw me off...the decomp did not pop out and I think with more cranks it just flooded. So is it possible that the decomp will not pop and I can move from full choke to half choke and crank the saw? In my case and from numerous posts, I presume the saw will fire on the second or third pull but what if the decomp does not pop up after the third crank? Should I keep trying?

I will have to try this without the decomp...it may work better for me because simply when the full choke is on and two or three cranks I should move to half choke so not to flood the saw any more.
Click to expand...

Well if the engine fires the deco valve should pop. Now I must say that I myself never use a deco valve on any of my saws cept my 880. I have no choice on that dayumm thing, its stronger than me. Even so I got maybe a better method for you.

Jim I've been thinking and maybe this will work for you better than watching the deco valve. First off you need to get that saw started one more time. We need to make sure there is no excess fuel laying in the bottom of the engine. If you get it started, run it for awhile and then cut it off with the switch. Now put the saw away. The next day grab the saw and try this.

1. Remove the gas cap and release all the pressure that my be in the fuel tank. Fill it full of fuel while your at it.
2. Put the cap back on and shake the saw some. This will create pressure in the fuel tank and force fuel up the fuel hose to the carb.
3. Set the choke lever all the way down to full choke.
4. Crank the saw TWICE. Don't worry whether it fires or not.
5. Raise the choke lever up one notch to the half choke fast idle position.
6. Crank the saw. Within two or three cranks I think it will be running.


Using this method, if the saw starts for you, this would be your cold starting procedure. This bypasses the ear, the deco valve altogether. Whether you use the deco valve or not is up to you. Try that procedure and let me know if it works.
 
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LHJim said:
Tommy...I will pay you a visit just to shoot the breeze. However I will saw that when the saw has run a bit and is hot it is easy to start 2 minutes later. The problem I have is starting a cold saw....come to think of maybe I'll put my baby next to my wife and see if it is easy to fire up :clap: :cheers:
Click to expand...

Too much info there,LOLOL

Come on by when you get a chance, we'll fire up some 361's together whether you bring your 361 or not,:cheers::cheers:
 
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madhatte said:
I work with a bunch of different saws at work, but the one I always have in the truck with me is a 361. Yes, it can be a bit temperamental at times, but it always runs. I've even used it in fires. Doesn't have the oomph of an 044/440 and I can't swing it around as long as I can a 260, but it's perfectly sufficient for a little of everything, which is pretty much what I need. I keep a 20" bar on it, with a 25" in reserve in case I need it. All in all, it's sort of The Little Saw That Could.
Click to expand...


Try a 16" bar with 3/8"x8 on the 361, and you may forget that 260....:)
 
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THALL10326 said:
....

1. Remove the gas cap and release all the pressure that my be in the fuel tank. Fill it full of fuel while your at it.
2. Put the cap back on and shake the saw some. This will create pressure in the fuel tank and force fuel up the fuel hose to the carb.
3. Set the choke lever all the way down to full choke.
4. Crank the saw TWICE. Don't worry whether it fires or not.
5. Raise the choke lever up one notch to the half choke fast idle position.
6. Crank the saw. Within two or three cranks I think it will be running.


Using this method, if the saw starts for you, this would be your cold starting procedure. This bypasses the ear, the deco valve altogether. Whether you use the deco valve or not is up to you. Try that procedure and let me know if it works.
Click to expand...

:agree2: considering he can't hear if it wants to stort, or not - if it doesn't work, he could try another pull on choke - etc.....

My hearing is really bad, but I sort of have developed a sence for when a saw wants to start, "pop" or not.......:)
 
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SawTroll said:
:agree2: considering he can't hear if it wants to stort, or not - if it doesn't work, he could try another pull on choke - etc.....

My hearing is really bad, but I sort of have developed a sence for when a saw wants to start, "pop" or not.......:)
Click to expand...

You mean you have a 6th sense? Musta be nice to have another hideous sense.

Tom...I am going to be at ur shop one day in the next 2 weeks. And I am going to bring my saw with me...gotta try to get in this situation I am always in when you are there and maybe you spank my saw bad boy! LOL... I really think its a matter of time by encountering different scenarios and know what to get out of them. Funny thing is when I flooded my saw last time. I tried starting at the run position and it did not work. Then one or two days later it will fire up on the run position...Maybe the spark plug dried off some while it was in da hole :confused:
 

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