short bar + big saw = danger?

[L.R.]

I shifted from a 16'' bar to a 20'' for limbing and trimming, and what a difference it made. You don't have to bend as much, you can reach farther without throwing yourself off balance.....it's all good.

Sometimes 4'' is a lot and sometimes it isn't...

I had the same experience going from 12" to 18", really liked it better. But why not buy a shorter bar and chain and at least try it out? Different strokes, you know... I still keep the solid 13" that came with the saw around. I must say that the 18" sprocket tip does make a difference in weight, but more importantly it shifted the balance of the saw.

People who learn the trade over here always learn to do everything with a 12 or 13" bar, because it is safer that way - smaller, lighter and more controllable. Remember, there are also precious few mammoth trees here. If you are used to the saw, I'd say the learning curve isn't very steep (or whatever one says here?!).

 

[Brushwacker]

Honestly, I think you're making more work for yourself with a shorter bar. You're going to be doing more reaching, and not saving hardly any weight at all. The real weight is in the power head. Sell the saw and buy the 192, if that's what you want.

I agree.
You also be doing more walking around with the saw, tripping through the brush, climbing over or around logs if you buck anything much over 18" or so.
For me there are a few situations I prefer short bars (thats why I prefer having a few or more saws to chose from on any given day). Cutting firewood, 90+% of the time I prefer bars 20 to 25" all around limbing bucking and felling.. Pruning or limbing up in the air I prefer short bars or cutting stumps low to the ground extra bar length means more chain and bar maintnence so its nice to have a short bar that doesn't stick out far for those occasions.

 

[sawinredneck]

My .02:
If you can get a shorter bar for a decent price, go for it! Being a machinist myself, I can tell you that machining bars isn't all it's cracked up to be! They are hardened, it's all cobalt and carbide, the bosses get pissy when you use the good stuff on "personal projects"! Plus it's going to be a LOT of time on the mill for you.
Then, you still have an old saw, that wasn't built that good to start with, and near death every time you use it. (just stating the obvious here)
So you do 20hrs worth of machining and make a bar finally work, then get ten more hours of use from the saw before it dies?
I'm sorry, not a big fan of these saws.
I'd also advise against the 192, I've got one that is sitting on the shelf, has been for two years now. First the carb craped out, then it lost fire right after I rebuilt the carb. I'm not impressed!
I'd suggest watching for an MS170 when they go on sale again, soon, for around $170, or spend a bit more and get the MS180, which is a much better saw IMO.
Keep in mind, I've been around the block a time or two, so what I would do, you might not agree with. Just giving some other suggestions.

 

[gemniii]

Good thinking. Love that saw, well worth the 40 bucks! Is the safety on the chainbrake or what is that plastic zipper?

I made a big mistake, it was $24 for the B&C.
The ziptie held the tag that marked the saw down to $50.

 

[bitzer]

Run em long. For limbing (pruning is for bushes) a shorter bar is not going to help you. Reach is better than a stick in the eye. Also gets you farther away from limbs under pressure. I still don't get the limbing saw. Fell, limb, buck with one saw. You're not 90 are you?

 

[VINIFIREWOOD]

Short bars

Short bars have their place. I have a 16" for my 7900 and a 13" for the 024 and they both get used more than even I thought when I purchased them.
So you want a shorter bar I say go for it.
What I would advise against is the 192T, not that I have anything against them, it comes back the safety factor that you were concerned about in your first post. Top handles are not, were not designed for the normal limbing routine. You move that rear handle to the top of the saw and you loose all your leverage and kickback becomes even more of a danger.

 

[2dogs]

What I would advise against is the 192T, not that I have anything against them, it comes back the safety factor that you were concerned about in your first post. Top handles are not, were not designed for the normal limbing routine. You move that rear handle to the top of the saw and you loose all your leverage and kickback becomes even more of a danger.

Very good point. Top handle saws are made for work in the tree.

 

[Zombiechopper]

Short bars have their place. I have a 16" for my 7900 and a 13" for the 024 and they both get used more than even I thought when I purchased them.
So you want a shorter bar I say go for it.
What I would advise against is the 192T, not that I have anything against them, it comes back the safety factor that you were concerned about in your first post. Top handles are not, were not designed for the normal limbing routine. You move that rear handle to the top of the saw and you loose all your leverage and kickback becomes even more of a danger.

Big crock of bull.

 

[spacemule]

Big crock of bull.

I disagree.

 

[Gypo Logger]

Efco 3600 w/ 10" bar so I can swing it around when up in a tree,

Got tired of swinging a 16" bar to trim 10" limbs. Couldn't see spending $300 for a 192T versus $40 for a B&C for rare use.

That saw rocks, I wish I had one of those.
John

 

[Gypo Logger]

Just say no to KB and long bars. Most Sawyers have the big tall Paul complex.
Short bars out cut any of those with a Paul Bunyan complex. So sit on a stump, pack my gas, limb my trees and I'll show you how it's done. Lol
John

 

[2dogs]

Kb?

 

[Gypo Logger]

Kb?

KB equals kickback, just a thing our our limp wristed long bar woodticks. You usually see them running a 24" bar on a Husky 365. WTF you gonna cut with a stock 365 and a 24" bar? Look out air!
John

 

[2dogs]

KB equals kickback, just a thing our our limp wristed long bar woodticks. You usually see them running a 24" bar on a Husky 365. WTF you gonna cut with a stock 365 and a 24" bar? Look out air!
John

Duh! Got it, thanks.

 

[Gypo Logger]

Duh! Got it, thanks.

Lol, I've seen those kinda guys before, chest thumpers who think they could cut wood, but in reality, they couldn't get out of their own way. They just talk a good story. Just watch Axeman or Swamp Logger, it will make you puke. I hate bullchitters that try to make people think they are macho.
John

 

[Gypo Logger]

I think bar length has nothing to do with back pain. If you don't have a good back you have no business in the bush. Short bars rock, just spread your feet and let the saw do the talking.
John

 

[2dogs]

I think bar length has nothing to do with back pain. If you don't have a good back you have no business in the bush. Short bars rock, just spread your feet and let the saw do the talking.
John

I agree to a certain extent with you. Some people just should not be in the chainsaw running biz. I saw that in the fire service when skinny females who could run a marathon without breaking a sweat demanded their "rights" after they failed a physical agility test because they could not carry a hose pack or climb over a wall.

Still I like a longer bar so I don't have to bend over. I feel best, or maybe the most natural, with a MS460 or a 371 with a 28" bar. I can almost throw in a Humboldt without looking. I don't really even know why that length bar works so well for me. I prefer a 28" for trees from 20" to 3' in diameter.

But I switch to a smaller lighter saw like a 357 or a 361 at about 20" and smaller.

 

[pgg]

Big crock of bull.

Zomb, no, more a HUGE crock of bull...

 

[bitzer]

Just say no to KB and long bars. Most Sawyers have the big tall Paul complex.
Short bars out cut any of those with a Paul Bunyan complex.

Don't walk stems much? Pointless to argue, but there is no way. By the time I'd be topping you'd be just be rounding the stump to get to the other side. Don't give me the trees are too small to walk thing either. I walk hardwoods that are 10" or less sometimes without calks. Have fun with spring poles too and don't tell me you don't get any. I've seen plenty of your chaired pics. That being said, to each his own. You've got yours and I've got mine. I haven't had a stick in the eye in a long time when limbing. How about you?

I think the short bar boys have more of a complex. Its all about speed with them. What about enjoying the moment? ha. ha.

 

[MCW]

What I would advise against is the 192T, not that I have anything against them, it comes back the safety factor that you were concerned about in your first post. Top handles are not, were not designed for the normal limbing routine. You move that rear handle to the top of the saw and you loose all your leverage and kickback becomes even more of a danger.

Very good point. Top handle saws are made for work in the tree.

I disagree.

Top handles having an increased kickback potential sounds plausible in theory. The shorter radius needs more force to control it blah blah blah.
Then you actually USE a top handled saw and realise it's all a load of theoretical crap. In reality the only danger I've seen with top handled saws is for guys that get carried away cutting with one hand and accidentally stick there other hand/arm in the way when pruning. Nothing to do with kickback at all.
Top handled saws are excellent at ground level and guys who say that they have no place but up in a tree have never seen the 10's of 1000's of 192T/200T's sold to ground based pruning contractors within the horticultural industry in Australia - or more likely they have ever used one.
By the way I own a 200T and have never felt theatened
Unfortunately a lot of guys see a top handled saw and think there is something mystical about their use. They are just the same as any other chainsaw and many people other than qualified arborists climbing a tree are able to use them safely.

Big crock of bull.

Zomb, no, more a HUGE crock of bull...

Monstrous in fact...