Masterminded 32:1 mix requirement?

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Yah, that goes with your fear of making a turd. You are a rarity these days.

Quality has all been off-shored to India and China, where it has gone to zip.

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Bwahahaha, that's a good one man!
 
I truly believe in helping folks out. That will never change.

My small engine repair is mostly mowers, trimmers, blowers etc. Ive eaten a few jobs but I let the customer know in a nice way. The business I gain back from word or mouth/recommended to friends always pays it back quickly.
 
I sometimes wonder if people are beating on these ported saws to see what they got. All i see are vids of people cutting 1 inch discs off a log with these saws. Like they are in a hot saw competition. If you just use the saw for what its intended it probably would last forever. When I'm cutting rounds off a big log in the woods i try NOT to push my saws to there limit, I'm not racing anyone. if i pushed it hard on every cut i make i would not expect it to last long. I try not to over rev any of my equipment with an engine. I would guess alot of failures are from misuse. 80:1 would be a gamble in my opinion, and i am sure the oil company wont fix your saw when it breaks. And in the 066 grenaded thread could it have been the saw was just pushed to hard, even if it had enough oil and was tuned properly.
 
I agree that cutting cookies and racing are not the goals of a working woods ported or stock saw, but you have to compare them somehow. Timed cookie cuts are a good way to do that. I lever my saws hard when falling and bucking and cutting firewood. I also run them WOT in the cuts, which is how they are designed to run. A fully MM ported 660 must be a really mean beast to run, and I doubt that I could keep up with it or run it too hard, even with a 32 inch bar and full comp. I bet it would out-cut my ability to lever the crap out of it. I cannot imagine bogging one.

The bearing failure could have been the lean oil, or a fault in the bearing from the factory (they do fail), or a combination of them. MM has changed his user requirements to 40:1 as a result of this, which is prudent. The higher compression alone seemingly is not the fault, as there are a lot of 660 MM modified saws out there. Hard to say exactly w/o a full failure analysis of the bearing. I run 45:1 in all my 2-strokes for better ring seal and better low end lube, and have for a long time now. Its 10% more oil than required by the factory. Err on the side of caution.
 
This thread is great. From now on I'm running 35.7142857142-1 in both MM saws ;) works out to 140ml in 5 litres. 50-1 is 100ml, 40-1 is 125ml and 32-1 is 150ml. Can't get hp ultra as stihl just stock mineral, found some mobil 1 racing 2t syn so might try that

Sent from my GT-I9210T
 
It makes sense...more oil is better ! So what are some of the down-sides to using too much oil in your mix. I was always under the impression that more oil in a 2 stroke creates more heat . So will it overheat things ? Foul spark plugs ? Or at some point are you just blowing unused oil out the exhaust and plugging up muffler screens ? I know this would have to be an extreme mix ratio..but Im curious !
 
I just mixed the last of my mobile 1 2t. I think I'm going to try Maxima k2 now that the mobile 1 is no longer available.
 
Ok- so I have 36 bottles of Woodland Pro Synthetic to use. Since I have a 2188 and a 2171 (both listed above) should I go ahead and start using 32:1? I have been using 40:1. Or should I not use them at all and move onto the Belray? I dont want any saw failures due to my ignorance.

Baileys full synthetic is excellent oil. I use it in my own saws, if not running one of the motorcycle oils. I ported a 441 that had been used a LOT for milling. The saw was 100% stock, including the carb limiters. It was obvious that it had been HOT...a LOT. But, there was not a hint of scoring. The saw had been run on Baileys full synthetic. That one testimonial was enough to convince me that it's a very good oil. I run all of my saws at 32:1. I recommend to everyone that I port a saw for, that they run the full synthetic oil of their choosing at 32:1, no less than 40:1. 50:1 would probably be fine in most cases, but it's simply not worth the risk.

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It makes sense...more oil is better ! So what are some of the down-sides to using too much oil in your mix. I was always under the impression that more oil in a 2 stroke creates more heat . So will it overheat things ? Foul spark plugs ? Or at some point are you just blowing unused oil out the exhaust and plugging up muffler screens ? I know this would have to be an extreme mix ratio..but Im curious !

With the oil I use at 32:1, I have experienced none of those things.....

 
Better safe than sorry if there are no side effects from it !! So did the 50:1 ratio that most manufacturers require now...come about due to the EPA . Seems like less oil in the mix=less emissions .
 
So we have concluded any good 100% synthetic 2-stroke oil between 32-40 to 1 is acceptable for ported saws right. And so not to have to many cans of mix @ its OK to use in stock saws to.:givebeer:
 
Thats what I gather as well . One can of 32:1 or 40:1 (which ever you feel more comfy with) For everything . Sounds better to me than 2 or 3 different cans :)
 
So we have concluded any good 100% synthetic 2-stroke oil between 32-40 to 1 is acceptable for ported saws right. And so not to have to many cans of mix @ its OK to use in stock saws to.:givebeer:

Sounds reasonable. More oil=better lubrication! What will they think of next??
Until the next oil thread(debate) is started in a few days!!
 
My sons run the dog snot out of the Simonized MS460, it is tuned to run a at 15,600 rpm, it is set up with a 25" bar most of the time, occasionally a 32". They have cull logs delivered to their firewood site, so no limbing is involved. The majority of the wood runs 18"-24" in dia and is all oak or hickory. The saw runs on 91 oct no ethanol and Ultra at 40:1. The saw is run in wood most of the time at wot, with the bar buried at 80% -90% of it's length most of the time. Looking at the piston and cylinder thru the exhaust port and spark plug hole I have no reason to believe there is any premature wear on the cylinder. It has done this over a year and a half. I see no reason to shy away from a properly modded saw, for us it has increased their production, taking less time to block up their wood and allowing for more time to split and load. The 460 came back 43% faster than stock, it prolly translates in them being at least 30% faster in production. It offsets the increases fuel consumption imho.
Although it doesn't translate to the majority of members on this site, when you work on saws everyday you realize most don't give a rat's azz about the quality of fuel or have a clue of what ratio they are running. We empty the gas out of every saw before working on it, always testing it for ethanol content, not for warranty issues but to educate the customer. Most people run their mix extremely thin, and the ethanol has absorbed a ton of water, just pathetic, some looks more like goat pizz than chainsaw mix. It is amazing what a saw will run on and the abuse they will take. Had a FS 70 trimmer this summer, the guy had run his six pack of Ultra thru the trimmer and then his son straight gassed it, came in cuzzing and saying way a piece of **** it was, it kept locking up after a few minutes of running, had locked it up at least three times, broke the piston loose, no real scoring, filled it up with 40:1 and it's been running every since.
 
So do I run a tank of oil before or after the 32 tanks of petrol....?? :)

Sent from my GT-I9210T
Obviously both, If you have already run 32 tanks of straight gas, then it's time for a tank of oil-------but if you just ran a tank of oil, then it's time to flush it with straight gas, a:chop:nd I thought you folks were pro's.
 
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