Masterminded 32:1 mix requirement?
- Thread starter windthrown
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
F
fuzz1500
Guest
Thanks for posting that link .Very good info by the looks of it . Ill have read more later 
windthrown
361 Junkie
Interesting, but that article covers water cooled TCW oils, the outdated API standard oils, and not a lot about the newer air-cooled JASO and/or ISO standards for oil. I wrote and posted this on AS many years ago... I have updated it for posting here:
TCW-3 is a standard that was developed by the National Marine Manufacturers Association, and designed for water cooled engines that run at lower RPMs. It will work in a pinch in air cooled chainsaws and will usually keep them from scoring and seizing. Longer term they are not good for using in saws, as they are ashless and are designed for cooler running engines. Also many 2 stroke oils out there claim to be for any 2 stroke engines, marine or land use, but most of these are TCW rated. TCW rated two stroke oils are by far the most common, as the two stroke marine engine oil demand dwarfs the two stroke air-cooled engine demand by about ten to one. Avoid using them in chainsaws.
The standard developed for high revving air cooled 2 stroke engines was originally created by the American Petroleum Institute(API). API only has one standard for 2 stroke oil, which is API TC. This standard is no longer reviewed and it has not been updated since 1993. However many companies still use it for specifications and it still remains in effect. It is roughly equivalent to JACO FB and ISO-L-EGB, which are defined below. So the most basic thing to look for when buying oil for your air cooled chainsaw is a API TC rated oil. I would avoid any non-rated oils, unless they are from a reliable company.
More recently to reduce exhaust smoke and improved cleanliness and lubrication in air-cooled 2-stroke engines in Japan and Asia, the JASO (Japanese Automobile Standards Organization) oil standards were developed. The levels of these standards are (from low to high): JASO FA, FB, FC, and FD. FA was the original specification established regulating lubricity, detergency (self cleaning capacity), initial torque, exhaust smoke and exhaust system blocking. JASO FB has increased lubricity and detergency, reduced exhaust smoke and exhaust system blocking requirements over FA. JASO FC has the same lubricity and initial torque requirements as FB, but with far higher detergency, exhaust smoke and exhaust system blocking requirements over FB.
In Europe, engine manufacturers demanded even greater detergency and improved spark plug fouling than provided by JASO FC standard quality oils. This led to the development of the Global ISO-EGD standard (ISO is the International Standards Organization). As a result of that, the JASO FD standard was added as an equivalent. JASO FD is the same as JASO FC with a far higher detergency requirement. Basically, these are the equivalences between the JASO and ISO standards:
ISO-L-EGB – same tests and requirements as JASO FB.
ISO-L-EGC – same tests with slightly higher detergency requirements (piston varnish) as JASO FC.
ISO-L-EGD – same tests and requirements as JASO FD.
So when you buy 2-stroke oil, look at the label to figure out what it is made for and what level of testing has been done. Use an oil that is rated for air-cooled engines, and preferably a higher rated oil like JASO FC/FD, or ISO EGC/EGD. Generally the 100% synthetic oils are certified to these standards, they will not foul your plugs, they will smoke less or not at all, and they have superior lubrication and detergent qualities.
Last edited:
Cannon51
ArboristSite Operative
For the last few years I have been mixing 3.5 oz oil, 1 oz Seafoam to a gallon of 10% ethanol gas. The oil/gas ratio is about 36/1 and I have believed in the past that the Seafoam did not effect that ratio but I don't know if Seafoam has any combustion or lubrication properties. I use the same mix in all my 2 stroke equipment from old XL-12 to new Husky blower. I'm not having any problems with any of them but wonder if anyone has any opinion on the Seafoams effect on the mix ratio?
Cannon
Cannon
I think Gary retired just in time.
There was a old man that built race saw back in the 80's he worked for husq. And built saw to race he had me to run them for him because he couldn't because he worked for husq. I don't know anything about building a race saw or a woods port but he all ways said mix 32:1 he didn't trust the quality of fuel he would check every time for water in the fuel it showed any amount of water he wouldn't use it he said if I blow the saw up it wouldn't be because of lubrication at that time he was getting husq oil from Sweden because there was a was difference Then the oil over here if the saw went south the first thing he would check was the fuel to make sure I checked for water I Remember I smoked a saw one time because I was running late to a race and didn't check my fuel he chewed on my butt because it checked for water his saw were his kids and you didn't mess with his kids
Philip Wheelock
Finis Origine Pendet
Given that chainsaws have a limited professional service life (2000 hrs, 2 years, pick a number), providing more lubrication than 50:1 seems a common sense way to maximize service life, particularly for ported saws. Price difference/gallon for Stihl Ultra going from 50:1 to 32:1 is 92¢, MA sales tax incl.
Last edited:
Trx250r180
Saw polisher
we need the funny icon back lol
HuskStihl
Chairin'em for the sound
I think that may be the first time I've ever seen truely spelled that way on AS
mainewoods
Addicted to ArboristSite
That's because it's spelled with a southern drawl.
Oil threads suck! Lets talk about pie
Last edited:
windthrown
361 Junkie
Pie? How does pie help saws from self destructing? Seems like they would just get fat running with it, and my 441 is already fat enough. Then SawTroll would complain about all the added saw weight, lower power to weight ratio, and then we would just be back to arguing about saws again.
This is AS, home of evil oil threads. Gary save us!
This is AS, home of evil oil threads. Gary save us!
MarkEagleUSA
ArboristSite Guru
If you're eating pie you can't be running the saw.
I like legit oil threads. Does that make me a sadistic monster, lol
MarkEagleUSA
ArboristSite Guru
It's not the oil threads, Brad...I like legit oil threads. Does that make me a sadistic monster, lol
windthrown
361 Junkie
I like legit oil threads. Does that make me a sadistic monster, lol
That's the Darth Snellerizer in you...
.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Aug 8, 2010
- Messages
- 14,732
- Reaction score
- 84,744
- Location
- Plymouth, Mass. America's Hometown
Startron is better!!
windthrown
361 Junkie
Hmmm, off on anther tangent to oil here. The stabilizers do not affect the fuel mix much as they are added in such small amounts to gas. Like 4 oz. per 10 gallons, or 1:230. The people at Fuel-Testers dot com do not recommend Seafoam as it has alcohol in it, like most gas additives out there. There are several issues with these stabilizers, in that they are more commonly sold to keep E10 ethanol gas from phase separation and the like. Seafoam, Startron and Sta-Bil green are designed more for E10 gas in a marine environment. Some Starbrite/Startron products also have methanol in it and you do not want that in an aluminum engine. I do not use E10, so I only use a stabilizer to keep the gas octane up.
I have used Sta-Bil red for years and have had no problems with it. The gas stays fresh, no sludge or varnish in my saw carbs, even after a year of not being used. I use E0 premium gas though. No ethanol in there.
I have used Sta-Bil red for years and have had no problems with it. The gas stays fresh, no sludge or varnish in my saw carbs, even after a year of not being used. I use E0 premium gas though. No ethanol in there.
Last edited:
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
Only if the tank is more than 1/2 full.
