Nik's Poulan Thread

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Mark, can you date this box?
he3yraba.jpg


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No, not for certain. I do think that style logo was not really used in print media after about 1970, but it was still used on bars etc till maybe 1975.

If they had a stock of those boxes they probably would have used them up till all gone so you might have seen them later. .
 
Well got my dirty 4000 cleaned up and running. Have to install a bar and fine tune carb, but she seems to run and oil ok. I did have to make an oil pump diaphragm and though the material is a little thicker than oem it seems to work fine. This is the second one I've done. Checked comp after a few minutes of run time and cool down and it was 175. Don't know how I originally got 135 after the rebuild. Think I didn't have the hose completely tight on the cylinder. Put some picture up later using my Ipad. Much easier.
 
Well got my dirty 4000 cleaned up and running. Have to install a bar and fine tune carb, but she seems to run and oil ok. I did have to make an oil pump diaphragm and though the material is a little thicker than oem it seems to work fine. This is the second one I've done. Checked comp after a few minutes of run time and cool down and it was 175. Don't know how I originally got 135 after the rebuild. Think I didn't have the hose completely tight on the cylinder. Put some picture up later using my Ipad. Much easier.

Wow. If its pumping 175 psi that saw should pull like a mack truck
 
Wow. If its pumping 175 psi that saw should pull like a mack truck
Yea, Joe. It pumped 150 before I tore it down. Replaced cylinder w/o a gasket and ended up at 175. A little more run time and I'll recheck it to be sure the assembly lube is cleaned out of the cylinder. I'm a little skeptical but I know the tester is accurate.
 
Wow that 4000 sure cleaned up nice. Congrats! :bowdown:
I haven't run across any of them in my neighborhood. If I do I sure will try to snag it. Several guys here say it is their all time favorite firewood saw.:rolleyes:
Seems to run okay but I can't seem to get wot rpm's above 9900 - 10,000. Have Hi needle 7/8 open and am concerned about going leaner. May have to pull carb and recheck metering lever. Believe its level with carb body. Maybe I need to go an smidgen higher. I know max rpm's isn't in the 11,000 area but would like to get to 10,500 or close to that.
 
What is the part number for the piston rings on a 5400? The ipls I can find reference the 5200 rings. I thought the 5200 and 8500 were thick ring and the 5400 was thin ring?
 
What is the part number for the piston rings on a 5400? The ipls I can find reference the 5200 rings. I thought the 5200 and 8500 were thick ring and the 5400 was thin ring?
My piston application chart from Poulan shows the 5200, 5400 and 8500 as using the same piston PNY 530010531
 
Yea, after thinking it over ,maybe there is too much fuel getting to the carb causing it it run rich. Seems to smoke quite a bit. Regarding the diaphragm material, it really pushes out the oil. Almost too much as it's all over the top of the clutch cover.

I noticed that on my 3700. I was wondering if a short piece of small diameter Tygon line inserted in the oil line to restrict flow might help.
 
Yea, after thinking it over ,maybe there is too much fuel getting to the carb causing it it run rich. Seems to smoke quite a bit. Regarding the diaphragm material, it really pushes out the oil. Almost too much as it's all over the top of the clutch cover.

I ran into a similar problem on a 395 I built about a month ago. I had a ton of fuel coming back out of the carb, so much that the back of my hand got covered. I know that metering lever is set to low, leaving the rod above the seat letting too much fuel in. Just gotta tear into it again.
 
Anyone interested in a Wizard 314 (Poulan 25 in orange drag)? It has been lingering at our shop for two years now. Came in with loose cylinder base nuts. Runs fine now, and not shredded too badly. The bar stud has been replaced with an Allen bolt, but the rest is proper. Repair ticket on it is about $45 plus actual shipping from 30179. I'll snap some pics if anyone is interested. Hit me up with a convo.
 
Yea, after thinking it over ,maybe there is too much fuel getting to the carb causing it it run rich. Seems to smoke quite a bit. Regarding the diaphragm material, it really pushes out the oil. Almost too much as it's all over the top of the clutch cover.

Bob, I have found these old Poulans will really put out the oil, especially when ya just rev the things in the shop. :laugh:LOL If ya put that saw in the wood, it drastically reduces the excess oil getting all over things. :D To be honest, the more oil the better, the way I see it. Just makes me feel better knowing it is lubricating while cutting wood. I just wish all saws had both a manual oilier and an adjustable auto oilier.

As much as I run these 3400/4000 style saws, i automatically pump the oilier while cutting, don't really think about it. Just has become second nature. Its funny when I use a saw without the manual oilier. My thumb starts reaching to give it a few pumps...and no lever there..LOL Kinda like when I drove manual shift vehicles most of my life, then got a truck with automatic. For some time, my left foot was always reaching for the clutch that wasn't there. :oops:

Gregg,
 
Anyone interested in a Wizard 314 (Poulan 25 in orange drag)? It has been lingering at our shop for two years now. Came in with loose cylinder base nuts. Runs fine now, and not shredded too badly. The bar stud has been replaced with an Allen bolt, but the rest is proper. Repair ticket on it is about $45 plus actual shipping from 30179. I'll snap some pics if anyone is interested. Hit me up with a convo.

I could be wrong, but I think all the 25's had an allen bolt instead of a stud. None of mine have studs.
 
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