Nik's Poulan Thread

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New to me it runs but needs help. Smokes at low idle clears wide open I have read old posts (what I could find ) I need to look for check valve in one of the elbows ?
Duck bill ? Witch elbow ?I found Lombard with AV only one pic on google.
Going to run Vac/Pressure this week P/C look good 2 big rings .
Smoke is from bar oil being sucked in crank ?


I don't know that model specifically. Remington used a similar setup, whereby through a 90 elbow fitted on the tank , it was pressurized through a duckbill receiving a pulse from the bottom of the cylinder. Flywheel and ignition had to come off though to access the fitting. The likely fix is a Poulan duckbill in that fitting with bill facing toward the oil tank. You may need to manufacture something to hold the bill?

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/lombard-chainsaws.232298/#post-4231750

Good repair video giving a general idea of how these setups work.

Good luck. That is a sweet looking machine.
 
I don't know that model specifically. Remington used a similar setup, whereby through a 90 elbow fitted on the tank , it was pressurized through a duckbill receiving a pulse from the bottom of the cylinder. Flywheel and ignition had to come off though to access the fitting. The likely fix is a Poulan duckbill in that fitting with bill facing toward the oil tank. You may need to manufacture something to hold the bill?

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/lombard-chainsaws.232298/#post-4231750

Good repair video giving a general idea of how these setups work.

Good luck. That is a sweet looking machine.

thank you this should help
 
I got out my PP260 today, and after its cleaning and new fuel lines it was running great. One pull restarts, just ripped through the oak branches........then disaster struck. Apparently the previous owner had not put the rope on the recoil correctly and somehow got tangled in the flywheel. Messed the starter up. What a bummer. So anyone have a cheap recoil for a 260 out there?
 
image.jpeg
image.jpeg Red colored Craftsman 3.7 had a lot of PTO bearing radial play, about 0.050" and the shaft seal of course, was toast. The side play was over an eighth of an inch.

Tore it down and it ended up being a 4 piece (busted) brass thrust washer and one missing bearing needle (WTF?), but what really dissappoints me is that it's got a 3800 with fat rings and chromed piston top end.

Someone had been there before, as there was black silicone over the factory clear on the case halves and the one missing needle was stuck in the gap between the seal and bearing face. I'm surprised the top end was still in very good shape.

Craftsman model number 358.354831 saws used the 3800 top end as OEM, had to look that up on Sears direct website.

After a new Koyo BH-108 bearing, two CR6119 seals, a 5300 15354 thrust washer and some ultra black sealer, it was back in business.

Set the side play to about 0.012-15" by multiple driving sessions on the new PTO side bearing, and then checking the play after temporarily putting the crank in & the case halves back together..."I have a potty mouth"!
 
I was filling the oil tank with the bar off of my 5400 on Saturday and the oil was running out of a hole in the middle of the bar pad.

Does anyone know what is supposed to be there to prevent that from occurring?

When the bar and chain are installed there are no problems, runs and oils correctly.

Thanks

Mark
 
The P245/306 & P3400 both series used a cotter pin in the oil tank vent hole to slow the leak down. I'll check an IPL on the 5400, as I don't own one (yet).

EDIT
No detail on the IPL, but if it's open vent hole it needs a pin.
Look at post #40732 above, that 3700 has an extra long cotter in the top left side of case pic...

Without splitting the case, I'd imagine you could drag one in backwards with a piece of wire or
dental floss through the oil fill hole, providing that you had clearance room on the pad area to
nip it off & spread the legs. I don't know why people pull those out, but you can't fix stupid.
 
Hi Mark,

There's supposed to be a sintered plug in there. Oil tank breather hole. I don't see a PN anywhere for it so it must come with the case. The hole looks a little large for a duckbill valve but you may want to try that if you can't find the right size sintered plug.

DSCF2972.JPG
 
I have no idea
it's still available (was listed a day ago),
if the seller would be willing to ship it,
or if it's all original (some of y'all will know),

but a clean Poulan 44 bow saw that "Runs Good" (per the seller) for $110.00 sound like a good deal.

http://houston.craigslist.org/grd/5732571560.html
 
Hi everyone!
I have a Poulan 8500 that I just started working on. The problem I'm having is whenever I start the saw and start to adjust the carb, or whatever, the clutch will spin off after about 30 seconds. Put it back on and hit it lightly with an impact wrench, and yep, it comes off again. Anyone else ever have this problem? I just replaced the seals, but it did it before, too.....
 
Hi everyone!
I have a Poulan 8500 that I just started working on. The problem I'm having is whenever I start the saw and start to adjust the carb, or whatever, the clutch will spin off after about 30 seconds. Put it back on and hit it lightly with an impact wrench, and yep, it comes off again. Anyone else ever have this problem? I just replaced the seals, but it did it before, too.....
If you are running the saw without the bar and chain on this can happen, put the bar and chain back on and set the chain brake to tighten the clutch.
 
I've started on an S25DA today. Manual oiler works great; auto doesn't work one bit. I've read there's a diaphragm that's likely ruptured & that I'll have to make a new one.

What sort of material should I make it from?

And if it pulses based on crankcase pressure, wouldn't that make for a huge vacuum leak? Saw doesn't run like it has an air leak...

Thanks!

--JC
 

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