Nik's Poulan Thread

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Install seals before or after I install the crank and put the cases together? Case is already tapered for the crank seals.

Steve Sidwell, Samsung On5 using Tapatalk

Install the crank and button up the crank case and then I would install the seals when you know the crank is turning nice and free with no issues.
 
At the recommendation of Poge I bought a tube of Dirko HT, came to me for around $11 with free shipping. Pretty sure it came from Bulgaria...

Great advice on the seals Roger. The McCulloch 10 Series use the same 6119/6120 seal on the PTO side and I normally start it before assembling the "clamshell" halves on those to avoid issues getting the seal to start in the bore. I was able to remove and replace the seals in a 3400 recently without splitting the case using the Lisle 58430 tool, actually worked pretty well. I find that good quality seals like SKF have a slight chamfer on the rim that helps them slide into the bore. I also have some cheaper one, not sure of the brand, but without a chamfer you cannot get them to slide into a bore as the sharp edge catches and cocks the seal. No more cheap ones for me.

http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?product=365

Mark
 
Well my Franken Poulan 505 I tore back down because it was not running right. I decided while I had it apart to install a Stihl MS660 piston. I bought one of the meteor pistons and installed with a stock base gasket. The old OEM piston was worn pretty good and I noticed a lot of slop around the skirt. Saw now has a little better squish and is now taching 14,200 and still 4 stroking good. I am not sure who figured out that conversion but all in all it was pretty simple to do.

This time I pressure checked and vacuum checked the crank case. Passed with flying colors. It turns out the issue with it not running right was the carb. The last thing I expected. So now it has a Jonsered fuel tank the Poulan 505 crankcase and a MS660 piston. Really is a Franken saw now, but it is a runner.

IMG_1002.JPG
 
Well my Franken Poulan 505 I tore back down because it was not running right. I decided while I had it apart to install a Stihl MS660 piston. I bought one of the meteor pistons and installed with a stock base gasket. The old OEM piston was worn pretty good and I noticed a lot of slop around the skirt. Saw now has a little better squish and is now taching 14,200 and still 4 stroking good. I am not sure who figured out that conversion but all in all it was pretty simple to do.

This time I pressure checked and vacuum checked the crank case. Passed with flying colors. It turns out the issue with it not running right was the carb. The last thing I expected. So now it has a Jonsered fuel tank the Poulan 505 crankcase and a MS660 piston. Really is a Franken saw now, but it is a runner.

View attachment 588407

Is that pic near where you get your firewood?
 
This is the paint I got for it.
d44b4cc618a5c952bb4b22e678a4d870.jpg


Steve Sidwell, Samsung On5 using Tapatalk
 
Picked up some Key Lime Green today for my saw restro, anyone know of a good rattle can clear coat that is gas proof?

Steve Sidwell, Samsung On5 using Tapatalk

Steve,

A collector friend of mine checke out a bunch of them and found thos one the best
PlastiKote 229 Clear Engine Enamel
 
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