Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

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That saw does not seem to have a lot of balls, the round is not that big but you can hear the saw slow as soon as you start cutting.
That frozen semi green birch is hard cutting. Add that to the fact that on my sharpened chains the rakers are way low, and I think the saw does ok.
 
Couple days ago I posted about finally trying skip tooth chain on one of my 372s. Today I decided to see if it actually was cutting faster.

I eyeballed the biggest log in the pile that wasn’t too hard to get to, hooked a chain to it and yanked it out with the truck. Didn’t realize the whole thing was hollow, but it was getting late so I ran with it.

Went ahead and tested a new chain as well just to see how it compared to my sharpened chain.

Both chains were ground the same way, and I set the rakers the same. Both chains are worn about half way.


Id say you got that skip sharpened pretty good. Clear its doing just fine and you'll save time on sharpening that too.
 
Been working on sharpening a box of chains for @Brufab I'm liking this super clean for getting everything degreased before sharpening. The wheel has been staying clean and not having to dress it nearly as much as simple green and other options. I'm going to try purple power as well being that I can get it in town at dollar general without having to run to menards.
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Only one we ran into a problem with was a knock off chain that's used for dirty wood. The steel must have impurities in it as the wheel overheated the cutter almost instantly. 20230105_192307.jpg

The same method was used on Oregon chain with excellent results. Maybe these would benefit from hand filing them as to avoid bluing the cutter. I have one more to go then over a dozen chains the cutters are done. Next I'll run them all through the grinder I have set up for rakers. The Oregon manual calls for soaking them in oil once complete overnight. I've heard of people using WD but I'm not sold on that because it seems more of a cleaner penetratant than lubrication for chains. If I have some decent freezer bags I may soak them in bar oil like the manual suggests and then bag them up.
 
Are you saying that the live Ash trees up at my property are now Highly Valuable Ash Trees!!! (HVAT)!!!

They are about as light as you can get!

Years ago, my cousin made a bar stool using a combo of Black Cherry heartwood and Ash. The contrast was striking!

Also, do they use Ash for trim much? I have LOTS of trees that are not big diameter but go about 70' straight up w/o a branch!
They make baseball bats out of Ash.
 
I hate this warm weather in Winter. The ground froze up then thawed out making it useless to use for tree removal. I decided to bring in 21 ton of 3/4 stone to cover my main logging road again. Plus I have some left over for other muddy areas once the rain and snow stops.
 

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My trailer about the same size as your. 6x10,10K. Doesn't look overloaded but dang close with green red oak in it.
View attachment 1046483
That was the main reason me and my uncle settled on a 14k dump. You can load 10k in it and not be over weight. Handy trailers but man they are heavy buggers.
This Winter/Spring, I plan on making a removable winch stand/bracket for my small trailer. You'll have to use your imagination in my description. I couldn't find suitable pics to explain everything.

I move my 5'x8' trailer around by hand so I want to keep the weight down. Plus a removable winch stand toward this end. I'll only use the winch once in a while so I want to be able to remove it. I have 1/4" bolt on plates like this on my trailer tongue:
View attachment 1046526
Disregard the square tubing. Then I'll have an upright (vertical) pipe (2"x2" or 2"x3") welded to the plate. A brace like one shown will also be welded to the top plate.
View attachment 1046529
Again disregard the hand winch. On top of the vertical pipe, I'll weld a piece of 2-1/2"x2-1/2" piece of pipe horizontally to act as a hitch receiver.

The electric winch (4500#) will be bolted to a plate welded to a piece of 2"x2" pipe like this:
View attachment 1046532
The winch/plate will slide into the horizontal receiver pipe on the upright. It can also be used in the receiver of my truck hitch in case I ever get stuck or need it.

Dimensions are up in the air still. I don't want to build something only to have to redo it. Would a 6" piece of horizontal receiver tube be adequate? Weight and material conservation.

Oh, and pics of your set up would be appreciated.
Just a note of caution. I have a 12k winch fastened with a hitch mount on my deck over. I still don't know how, but I had a hitch pin sheer off when we were pulling a f-350 work truck on the trailer. Sounded like a gun shot and the winch went flying toward the truck. Only saving grace was the truck was half up the ramps so the bumper got hit with the winch. (Bumper was junk anyway) scared the pooh out of me and my brother.
Ive been wanting to build a skidding trailer for awhile. I have all the stuff, but haven't done it.

It would be powered by a 3 cyl Diesel Kubota generator. Stake pockets along all edges that can be used for sides and have rollers that can drop into them.

Ive got a set of out riggers and I was going to set those up on the Trailer, and use 6" well casing for the mast. I want it to be just as tall as I can get away with and still get around easy enough with it, and a pair of winches up top. Ideally I would run a guide line from the top of the mast too, and hook it up opposite of whatver dierection i was pullling.

Basically build a mini yarder that can be puled behind a pick up and a deck on it to haul the logs.
A log arch is about the easiest/best way I've seen to skid logs without adding a ton of weight to the trailer. Been slowly collecting material to make one for my 12k utility trailer, for now I have a solid ramp I skid them up.
 
This Winter/Spring, I plan on making a removable winch stand/bracket for my small trailer. You'll have to use your imagination in my description. I couldn't find suitable pics to explain everything.

I move my 5'x8' trailer around by hand so I want to keep the weight down. Plus a removable winch stand toward this end. I'll only use the winch once in a while so I want to be able to remove it. I have 1/4" bolt on plates like this on my trailer tongue:
View attachment 1046526
Disregard the square tubing. Then I'll have an upright (vertical) pipe (2"x2" or 2"x3") welded to the plate. A brace like one shown will also be welded to the top plate.
View attachment 1046529
Again disregard the hand winch. On top of the vertical pipe, I'll weld a piece of 2-1/2"x2-1/2" piece of pipe horizontally to act as a hitch receiver.

The electric winch (4500#) will be bolted to a plate welded to a piece of 2"x2" pipe like this:
View attachment 1046532
The winch/plate will slide into the horizontal receiver pipe on the upright. It can also be used in the receiver of my truck hitch in case I ever get stuck or need it.

Dimensions are up in the air still. I don't want to build something only to have to redo it. Would a 6" piece of horizontal receiver tube be adequate? Weight and material conservation.

Oh, and pics of your set up would be appreciated.
Something like thisE9E60503-566D-49CD-890E-E3D99ED94892.jpegB65A9AED-ABB0-4C6E-9E2A-8514C0913C46.jpeg3A57D77A-6C65-448E-80F9-C0D52495E7C9.jpeg
 
View attachment IMG_0519.MOV
Consider starting a thread asking to see someone elses rig. BUT first thing that comes to mind, its that someone has a traile rig thats a valuable and current contributor, that I want to refer you copy his design. It works best with a GANTRY on the back of the trailer. I say this, because just winching and diccin around with ramps and rollers, particularly singlehanded can be in efficient. Mayeb its Uncle Mustache that has a trailer with rear gantry that pivots rear to front? The idea is that once the log is ready to land on the trailer, it elevates it so it clears the rear deck edge and as you drag it on, it doesnt hang up, no ramps or roller needed.

Someone will be along to clean up my mess here.
View attachment IMG_0520.MOV
 
That was the main reason me and my uncle settled on a 14k dump. You can load 10k in it and not be over weight. Handy trailers but man they are heavy buggers.

Just a note of caution. I have a 12k winch fastened with a hitch mount on my deck over. I still don't know how, but I had a hitch pin sheer off when we were pulling a f-350 work truck on the trailer. Sounded like a gun shot and the winch went flying toward the truck. Only saving grace was the truck was half up the ramps so the bumper got hit with the winch. (Bumper was junk anyway) scared the pooh out of me and my brother.

A log arch is about the easiest/best way I've seen to skid logs without adding a ton of weight to the trailer. Been slowly collecting material to make one for my 12k utility trailer, for now I have a solid ramp I skid them up.
My issue wirh a logging arch is that the main place I cut wood is very steep terrain, too steep to use a wheeler for skidding. I normally use a snatch block up hill of the road and the F350 but not having to move the truck constantly to drag logs would be awesome. With the trailer set up I could run the winches remotely and be dragging the log up hill while also getting myself back up top to get it the trailer.
 
My issue wirh a logging arch is that the main place I cut wood is very steep terrain, too steep to use a wheeler for skidding. I normally use a snatch block up hill of the road and the F350 but not having to move the truck constantly to drag logs would be awesome. With the trailer set up I could run the winches remotely and be dragging the log up hill while also getting myself back up top to get it the trailer.
Remotes for winches are just great. I have a mile marker (I think) add on remote on the deck over, works pretty well, but not nearly as good as the integrated one on the x-bull I got for the utility trailer. Can't say I ever really reposition the trailer much have snatch blocks for direction changes for the deck over and the utility trailer has fenders that stick up, so skidding im limited to behind the fenders anyway. Why I like the idea of the arch towards the back. If it's set up right shouldn't need to reset for different angles too often, and it will lift the log onto the trailer. One of my biggest issues with the deck over is the winch sets dust off the deck and. There's no room for bracing it higher. Real pain when you want to drag that second or third layer of logs on the trailer. This winch for the utility trailer is up about 2 feet off the deck. Figured between that and the arch giving me the ability to lift the logs I should (I hope) be pretty set for easier loading.
 
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