044 Handle Repair Pictorial

[teacherman]

I have heard it said that putting off a project can bite ya in the bu††. True enough. My 044 was cracked at the back end in shipping, and I just used it cause it runs so durn good. Somewhere in the hubbub of playin' groundie (see thread "Groundie"), cameraman, and so forth, I broke it completely and lost a chunk of precious nylon. Decided to fix the thing, so I can use the saw again.
Pics:
The damage wrought by procrastination:

Gotta clean things up first. This helps.

Wipe the surface clean before proceeding.

 

[teacherman]

Drill a couple of holes. Tight space, have to angle the hole to avoid compromising the structure further.

Using some stiff galvanized wire, about .095" thick

Using a 9/64" chain file to cut the grooves.

 

[teacherman]

Scarifying the bonding surface using a soldering iron.

Drill and cut holes to allow me to use the rest of the step flange to anchor the wire.

 

[teacherman]

100 grit paper to roughen the wire a bit. Also used a 6 sided file to nick it up a bit.

Bending some wire. Trickier than it looks. Using needlenose pliers.
Gotta get the wire to lay in close to the handle so it is well anchored with the JB.

 

[teacherman]

Mixing up some JB Weld

Gotta be fairly precise with the proportions. Put some plastic on the scale.

Zero the balance with the plastic on it.

27 grams of goo.

An equal amount of hardener.

Roll and staple the edges of the plastic.

Need to be kneaded a while.....

 

[teacherman]

Helps to have the workpiece level.

Build two little plastic dams to contain the ooze.

It is prudent to wait until the goo hardens before proceeding further.
Tomorrow we'll do a "clay-up." A rather complex pour needs a mold in order to be successful.

 

[Lakeside53]

If you're worried about it running or having no containment on the "missing" part, put a thin coat of JB on the surface, then wait until the rest of the JB is "putty like (1-4 hours depending on temperature and mass), then mold it in like play dough. Timing is everything though.

I check all my JB fixes frequently until it's in the putty state, then press it around until I like the look. Sure saves a lot of mess (tooling while wet), filing and sanding.

 

[teacherman]

If you're worried about it running or having no containment on the "missing" part, put a thin coat of JB on the surface, then wait until the rest of the JB is "putty like (1-4 hours depending on temperature and mass), then mold it in like play dough. Timing is everything though.

I check all my JB fixes frequently until it's in the putty state, then press it around until I like the look. Sure saves a lot of mess (tooling while wet), filing and sanding.

I have it covered. Will be even better than that. I just wish I had some white JB. PC-11 is not as "wet," so is not likely to adhere as well. I may paint the JB when I am done. The goal is to do no sanding whatsoever, and to have a smooth repair, distinguishable from the original only by color.

 

[Lakeside53]

Hey, remember at the dentist when they match the color of your enamel (which shade of yellow are your "white" teeth?)? Maybe he can match your tank exactly, and give you some of that nice UV curing epoxy!

 

[dingeryote]

For creating "Dams" and to fill voids where ya don't want the epoxy flowing, modeling clay works wonders.

Quality electrical tape(PVC) works great as well for containing small voids hat need to be filled. The 3" wide stuff sold as "Sock tape" at irrigation/drainage supply outfits is great for making "Forms", and it peels right off the hardened epoxy.

Filling in that gap on the handle is gonna be interesting.

Thanks for the post!!
Good Stuff!!



Stay safe!
Dingeryote

 

[teacherman]

Hey, remember at the dentist when they match the color of your enamel (which shade of yellow are your "white" teeth?)? Maybe he can match your tank exactly, and give you some of that nice UV curing epoxy!

Hahaha! He would soil himself if I walked into his office with a chainsaw! That is hilarious. I will have to dig out the Jason goalie mask.... "Now, about your bill............" BREOOOWWW......BREOOWWWW!!!
That would be a Kodak moment for sure!

I have a friend who has his own dental lab. Makes crowns, implants, and such. Even has a CNC tooth mill. Amazing, turns a block of material into a tooth right before your eyes. Joe would be happy to help me.

On the other hand, it is a chainsaw, not a sculpture.

 

[teacherman]

For creating "Dams" and to fill voids where ya don't want the epoxy flowing, modeling clay works wonders.

Quality electrical tape(PVC) works great as well for containing small voids hat need to be filled. The 3" wide stuff sold as "Sock tape" at irrigation/drainage supply outfits is great for making "Forms", and it peels right off the hardened epoxy.

Filling in that gap on the handle is gonna be interesting.

Thanks for the post!!
Good Stuff!!



Stay safe!
Dingeryote

You caught the "clay-up" comment, I imagine. I used to be a sculptor, and I have made some rather complex molds. This is going to be fun. I am in my element on this one.

You know, I actually have a roll of sock tape. So that is what they call it.

 

[Metals406]

I've heard good things about this epoxy... And it dries white.

 

[dingeryote]

You caught the "clay-up" comment, I imagine. I used to be a sculptor, and I have made some rather complex molds. This is going to be fun. I am in my element on this one.

You know, I actually have a roll of sock tape. So that is what they call it.

LOL!!!

I have been doing the Gunsmith gig on and off for going on 20 years now and have "Saved" a few stocks using epoxy, wire and woodchuck spit.LOL!!
There ain't NOTHIN' on the planet that can't be fixed with Accraglass, or other Good epoxy.

One trick I learned that has paid off repairing voids like that handle is shrink wrapping and then heating, after coating surrounding areas with release agent. Then using a turkey injector, squirt in the epoxy. As long as the epoxy has a low shrinkage rate, you can get away with just a slight skimming afterwards.

Making a latex Mould LOL!!!!!
I LOVE IT!!!

ETA:
Color dye that works with all PVC based epoxys. Even Devcon and JB.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=1046&title=ACRAGLAS~ DYES
Even have it in white.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote

 

[teacherman]

How do you harvest woodchuck spit? LOL

Thanks fer the Brownell's link. I wonder if it would reduce the structural strength of the JB. Actually, I am now down to the final, most visible part, and
incidentally, the least critical part form a structural standpoint. SO, I may actually order the white, and wait for it to arrive before proceeding further.
No promises, because I want to get the 044 going again.

Poured one more course on the step flange. Sanding will lighten the color, so this will get sanded.

Using tan Classic® clay for a pour dam.

My camera has focusing issues....

 

[teacherman]

Making a darn mess!

I hope to keep the whittling to a minimum here.

 

[parrisw]

Good work, looking forward to the rest.

 

[Rftreeman]

this should be a sticky, I'll be doing this on a tank I have coming.

 

[dingeryote]

Teacherman,

The Brownells dyes are specificly designed for application with PVC based epoxys like JB, Devcon,etc.

I have used the Brown and white in combination to closely match Walnut stocks, and it suffers no weakening I can tell, Even in poured pillars and recoil lug mortices that arrest rearward thrust of heavy caliber(450Watts, 375wby, 416 Rem.) recoil, and competition rifles that see hundreds of rounds.

The white dye wont work out to "White-white", at best you can get a cream color with the taupe colered epoxys like Accraglass, and a light grey from Steelbed, Bisonite,Devcon B, Marinetex and JB.

Marine-tex in the kits sold at Marinas can be mixed to an almost white with the supplied dyes though. Dunno if ya ever worked with the stuff or not, but it's Plenty strong. Hell, I have repaired anchor lift cradles with the stuff and that boat is still out on Lake Michigan 15 years later.
It should hold up to the tame dutys of a saw handle.

Looks good so far, but I'm looking forward to your "Michelangelo" on that missing chunk.LOL!!

I predict an EPIC thread, displaying blatent saw sickness here...LOL!!

Good stuff!!

Stay safe!
Dingeryote

 

[dingeryote]

this should be a sticky, I'll be doing this on a tank I have coming.

:agree2::agree2::agree2:

Sooner or later everybody is gonna have to epoxy a tank on thier "Pre-Ban" saws. Absofrigginlutely!

Sticky please.?
Pretty please with Bar oil on it?


Stay safe!
Dingeryote