066 limiter caps and muffler mods?

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Stihl has a good one the edt 6(i think) is the one I use at work.Little pricey though someone else may suggest a less expensive one.
 
ms660

So am I understanding this correct. The carb is fully adjustable under the limiter caps and the caps just keep the jets from vibrating one way or the other? All I have to do is pry the old ones out and wreck them if neede. Tune the saw and put new ones in and the jets will stay put?

Hello the reason they call them limiter caps because it limits you to adjust it rich.So as you dont go past world emmission specs almost all saws have this and all run to lean. It has nothing to do with rev limiting. They run to high from factory when i mod saws i richen them up its like turning your tap open in sink your adding more fuel a 066 or ms 660 runs best at 13500 to 14000 use good mix and sharp chain and you be ok
 
I have a tach/dwell meter but I don't think it will work on small engines. What is a good small engine tach and where can I order one from? Thanks

We have the edt 5 and the 6 at work I prefer the edt 5 it seems to pick up a bit quicker than the 6,,,, you can find one on ebay I tried to order another 5 and they sent me a 6,,,,, you just point them @ the plug wire and bingo!!!!

It helps to have some assitance on Max Rpm!!!!!
 
Hello the reason they call them limiter caps because it limits you to adjust it rich.So as you dont go past world emmission specs almost all saws have this and all run to lean. It has nothing to do with rev limiting. They run to high from factory when i mod saws i richen them up its like turning your tap open in sink your adding more fuel a 066 or ms 660 runs best at 13500 to 14000 use good mix and sharp chain and you be ok

So If I set up a saw and it is running 14,900 out of the box I don't pull the limiter caps and turn down the rpm?Yeah right!
 
Hello the reason they call them limiter caps because it limits you to adjust it rich.So as you dont go past world emmission specs almost all saws have this and all run to lean. It has nothing to do with rev limiting. They run to high from factory when i mod saws i richen them up its like turning your tap open in sink your adding more fuel a 066 or ms 660 runs best at 13500 to 14000 use good mix and sharp chain and you be ok

I'm a bit confused, are you saying it's too rich now and will be fine with muffler mods?
 
Anytime you modify or change something on your saw a good practice is to retach it.Chances are you would be fine with your mod but you might have to richen or lean out your saw.
 
Moe!!!!

I'm a bit confused, are you saying it's too rich now and will be fine with muffler mods?

Dont be confused!!!!!! if your saw's H adjustment is almost as far to the left (anti-clockwise) as you stated and your saw now runs @ spec RPM 13.5K if you mod your muffler You will have to fatten it up some more so the limiter cap will have to come off,,,, Do yourself a favor,,,, buy the Stihl Dual port Muffler cover,, then remove your muffler and the screen,,, open the outlet hole to3/8 to 1/2" with a dremel, add a few 1/4" holes to the front of the inner baffle flush all metal shavings very well,,,, reinstall the screen, reinstall exh.gasket & muffler, but do not tighten the back exhaust flange bolts,, yet, with front cover off and muffler loose start the bottom 6mm fasteners into the bottom muffler crank case holes and turn them in just a few rounds,,, this aligns them so you can get the front cover and bottom bolts installed properly with out cross threading, now tighten the the inner muffler exh. flange bolts, remove bottom 6mm bolts install your new dual port cover and all four front cover screws, remove the limiter caps set H to 1 1/2 turns warm up saw and set to Spec RPM reinstall the limiter caps,,, it will be the cleanest and easiest muf mod you can do,,, if you are real creative while you have the muffler off,, you can dremel away with a carbide cutter and match the back of the muffler & gasket to the exhaust flange... but if you are not doing a woods port job the latter is not really necessary,,,,, So now you ought to be thoroughly confused!!!
 
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Dont be confused!!!!!! if your saw's H adjustment is almost as far to the left (anti-clockwise) as you stated and your saw now runs @ spec RPM 13.5K if you mod your muffler You will have to fatten it up some more so the limiter cap will have to come off,,,, Do yourself a favor,,,, buy the Stihl Dual port Muffler cover,, then remove your muffler and the screen,,, open the outlet hole to3/8 to 1/2" with a dremel, add a few 1/4" holes to the front of the inner baffle flush all metal shavings very well,,,, reinstall the screen, reinstall exh.gasket & muffler, but do not tighten the back exhaust flange bolts,, yet, with front cover off and muffler loose start the bottom 6mm fasteners into the bottom muffler crank case holes and turn them in just a few rounds,,, this aligns them so you can get the front cover and bottom bolts installed properly with out cross threading, now tighten the the inner muffler exh. flange bolts, remove bottom 6mm bolts install your new dual port cover and all four front cover screws, remove the limiter caps set H to 1 1/2 turns warm up saw and set to Spec RPM reinstall the limiter caps,,, it will be the cleanest and easiest muf mod you can do,,, if you are real creative while you have the muffler off,, you can dremel away with a carbide cutter and match the back of the muffler & gasket to the exhaust flange... but if you are not doing a woods port job the latter is not really necessary,,,,, So now you ought to be thoroughly confused!!!

OK, I've got it now. I'll buy a limiter cap tool so I can open the carb when I modify. I'm planning on doing my own cover. I made additional ports in the front of my husky 246 and my 064 by welding homemade caps with spark arrestor screen over the holes. They both woke up with the mods. they both had adjustable carbs for resetting.
My main concern with the 066 is weather it had enough adjustment for mods. So one more time, I can remove the caps , set the carb where ever it needs to be, put new caps on and the jets will stay put?
I'm thinking for this muffler mod, I might have some chrome dual pipes comming out of the muffler with rain caps that will tink when it idles:D
 
Yes that carb with the limiter caps off is fully adjustable.Don't point your muffler mods straight out as they may contact or burn the wood as you cut especially fully buried right up to the dogs.
 
Whew!!!!!!

OK, I've got it now. I'll buy a limiter cap tool so I can open the carb when I modify. I'm planning on doing my own cover. I made additional ports in the front of my husky 246 and my 064 by welding homemade caps with spark arrestor screen over the holes. They both woke up with the mods. they both had adjustable carbs for resetting.
My main concern with the 066 is weather it had enough adjustment for mods. So one more time, I can remove the caps , set the carb where ever it needs to be, put new caps on and the jets will stay put?
I'm thinking for this muffler mod, I might have some chrome dual pipes comming out of the muffler with rain caps that will tink when it idles:D

Hey where's Larry and Curly been lately??????

All kidding aside,,,, good move on the lmiter cap tool,,, that saw is too expensive to risk not getting it set right,,, and as stated before by several other very knowledgeable folks when you enhance the flow of the exhaust,,,, you must adjust the fuel intake mixture to compensate, if your gonna play with them ya just about gotta have a tach as well,,,, if you have been running it stock as is before you start chopping stuff up when you get your tach just see where the H setting is seting RPM wise,,,, Inquiring minds need to know LOL,,,, I have one 066 I woods port modified and it just likes 14.2+ RPM but its exhaust is opened up real good!!!!!

Have fun,,, and let us know how it turns out ;)
 
Or

Sounds like a Harley at idle and I am not sure what at 15k plus. :rockn:

Lets just say I don't forget to put ear muffs on with it.
 

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