.10 or .25 ?

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graybear13

ArboristSite Member
Joined
Mar 17, 2012
Messages
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Location
natchez ms
I'm thinking of buying a carving bar and want to know whether I should go with a dime size tip or go with the quarter size. I have been using angle grinders with various cutters on them and they have worked fine, but after watching a guy use one of the carving bars , it made me want one of them. I also have a 141 Husky and a 240 Husky to mount the bar on. I'm leaning toward using the 141 as it oils a little better than the 240.I'm not really wanting to get into a long discussion about the evils of home owner saws, just your opinion on this.I also understand that these carving bars have a tendency to run hot and need a lot of slack when adjusted.Does this help with the heat problem? Whatever advice you can give will be cheerfully appreciated. Thanks
 
Seriously folks,is there not one of you that has an opinion? I assumed there would be someone that is on this site that has experience with these questions.
 
Seriously folks,is there not one of you that has an opinion? I assumed there would be someone that is on this site that has experience with these questions.
here i am
the answer to your question is another question can you get a 1/4 pitch sprocket for one of those saws
if you can go with the dime you will find that the quarter tip is better as a 14in bar for small blocking
and the dime is details
 
Many thanks for the insights.Baileys sells a carving bar kit that comes with a sprocket for around $150. It's hard to turn loose that much for something that I might not be happy with.
 
Even if you don't use it that much...

I run 12" dime tip carving bars on my ms 200 and ms 201 so I run 1/4 pitch chain for that radius. Those are nice cutting saws with the low pro but that 1/4 pitch turns them into little banshees greedy to get hold of any piece of wood. I can't speak for huskies, but my experience with my orange and white saws says have at it! Log Home store also carries bars, sprockets and carving chain. The bar from Bailey's is a rebranded cannon bar. The more I learn the more I learn I have to learn more. Good luck
 
Forgot

I run quarter tip bars on my ms 250 and ms 261, 16" and 18" respectively. I would prefer to run dime tips BUT as you will discover the 1/4 pitch chain is pricey. A 12" bar uses 63-64 drive links, about $21, compare that to what a 3/8 low pro chain for a 12" bar runs...It gets pricey.
 
The thing is ,I already have a 141 & a 240 husky,probably would not buy a new one, but the price was right on them,so I use what I have. I will most likely go with the .10 tip. I hear that the carving bars run hot, any thoughts on that? I also understand the carving chains(1/4 pitch) are not low kickback and cut better. I have trouble finding real chain for my saws,but did find a dealer that sells it .
 
Kickback on carving bar

Kickback is caused by improperly securing/bracing your saw while engaging the radius of the tip of your bar...with such a small tip, dime or quarter, kickback is minimal. As for carving bars heating up...its a balancing act, run your chain very loose...I have never had a chain run off that small radius from being loose, unlike on a standard bar. Think of it like this. When your bicycle chain slips off how do your get it back in place...you put it on the small radius first then start it on the larger radius as your turn the crank...

The balancing act comes in with running your chain too loose you can damage to drive links so you need to keep an eye on them for damage. A reason I got the MS200 and 201 is they have adjustable oilers so I can run them full open. Watch your plunge cutting as well that will cause a bar to heat up fast so as tempting as it can be keep that to a minimum.

Hope that helps
 
Hi & welcome to AS
Baileys has drums & sprockets for small Huskys. 1/4 pitch chain on a quarter tip bar is a great set up, & cuts smooth.
I hardly use my dime tip, unless for really fine detail. 1/4 pitch chain cost a little more, but worth it in the long run.
 
Kickback is something almost everyone that runs a saw learns to deal with. My gripe is that by trying to protect the morons, the rest, of us have to sufferlowkickback chain. Hate that sh**!
 
Did that the other day and was pleasantly surprised ! Been using a saw for 30 years or better and never had a problem with kickback. I suppose I will pull the trigger on one of thos .25 tip bars and see how it works out. Nothing ventured,nothing gained. I 'preciate all the help on the subject.
 
Quarter tip

Graybear,

If you want to try how a carving bar cuts with a minimum of investment, you can run 3/8 chain on a quarter tip bar.That way you do not have to buy a sprocket. A lot of the pros do the majority of their detail work with a quarter tip.

Bailys, or Scott at the Loghome store should be able to set you up with the appropriate bar to fit the bolt pattern on either of your saws. On both the dime tip and the quarter tip bars you need to run the chains on the loose side because of the tight hardnosed radii at the tip of the bar. If you want to pick the brain of one of the master chainsaw carvers, Bob King out of the State of Oregon also sells chain, bars and sprockets for carving.-ken
 
Quick delivery

Graybear, I just noticed where you are located, Baileys ships the majority of their chainsaw carving supplies out of Tennessee so that would probably be your best bet. -ken
 
I've ordered from them before and have been pretty much pleased. The price on their kit was pretty much less than what I could buy separate parts for locally. Yea baileys!
 

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