Cutting Red Oak

[Co3Da]

Hey guys figured I would bat this around been cutting seasoned red oak and it is having its tolls on my saws and my patience, I have had the chain smoking hot on 3 saws and dull within 2 cuts on one of the saws forcing me to constantly sharpen in the field, I am using 2 main saws about 60 cc on a pretty aggressive chains any suggestions to help me? Maybe a bigger saw? Or a better chain? takes me all day to cut and load a bed full of logs and anyone in here that has spent 3 days straight cutting and loading oak knows I am in pain right now lol, thanks guys.

 

[Peacock]

Are they dirty?

I've cut plenty of dry oak and never had the problem you speak of. Yeah, it's harder on chains than green wood, but it's not that bad.

So long as the wood is in fact clean, I'd run square chain. In my experience it stays sharp for a long time in clean wood.

 

[Co3Da]

It is a little dirty but I always save those for last I should mention that these logs are massive in size takes 2 of us to pick the log up onto the truck after the cut and then to split it also, but I was thinking the same It is really really hard but I cant seem to figure why these saws struggle so much. tuesday here I am trying a echo 670 till I get my dads 440 mag both seem to have very aggresive chains and hard so I am hoping to have better luck but I am very weary that I may not and waste a trip, hoping someone on here may tell me a little tip on this stuff I dont believe I have ever cut wood this hard.

 

[Peacock]

It is a little dirty but I always save those for last I should mention that these logs are massive in size takes 2 of us to pick the log up onto the truck after the cut and then to split it also, but I was thinking the same It is really really hard but I cant seem to figure why these saws struggle so much. tuesday here I am trying a echo 670 till I get my dads 440 mag both seem to have very aggresive chains and hard so I am hoping to have better luck but I am very weary that I may not and waste a trip, hoping someone on here may tell me a little tip on this stuff I dont believe I have ever cut wood this hard.

I can say first hand that a 60cc saw is no oak slayer. In my opinion you will want 70cc or more for rounds over 20". 60cc saws just don't have the grunt in stuff like that.

 

[Co3Da]

I should ask I see you have a 441 and 660 can I ask which one you use for oak normally I am guessing the 441, my dad just opted out the 441 for a 440 cuz the price difference he found a new one. he had a 046, 044 and I believe 066 and all were stolen so he bought this echo 670 which I now have cuz he hates it. But I was wondering cuz if your using that 441 I may not mess around this week and just wait to use his 440.

 

[Co3Da]

I was looking at an 038 mag 2 possibly for me he said the older seems to have a little more "ass" on them when you really get into that log but a lot of people dont seem to relize what an 038 mag 2 has for power.

 

[Mad Professor]

Make cutters even/sharp, rakers proper depth, oiler turned up.

Chisel or semi-chisel should cut good in clean wood, use semi- if dirty. If real dirty powerwash the logs/don't drag them in the dirt.

 

[clayman]

Hey guys figured I would bat this around been cutting seasoned red oak and it is having its tolls on my saws and my patience, I have had the chain smoking hot on 3 saws and dull within 2 cuts on one of the saws forcing me to constantly sharpen in the field, I am using 2 main saws about 60 cc on a pretty aggressive chains any suggestions to help me? Maybe a bigger saw? Or a better chain? takes me all day to cut and load a bed full of logs and anyone in here that has spent 3 days straight cutting and loading oak knows I am in pain right now lol, thanks guys.

I don't really understand why cutting red oak would dull your saws. Most of the wood I cut to burn in my house is red oak. I love to cut red oak because it splits up so good. The trees I cut are dead trees, and have been dead for quite a while; some times they are still standing, and some times they are down. Now granted they are not huge trees, probably 16" to 20" in diameter, in fact I just cut two down with my new 346XP, and cut them into 18" chunks. I can't tell the saw is a bit duller.

So unless there is a problem in the way you are sharpening the chain I don't have a clue. I did notice some advice in the saw manual about sharpening chains I have never done, but maybe I should, and that is to file down the depth gauge when you sharpen the teeth. 30 years of wood cutting and I have never done that, but now I can see why you need to.

 

[Co3Da]

Yes it does split very nice I do like that a lot, these are easily double that size and probably been downed about 2 or 3 years but I really didnt think I would have so much trouble before I have cut a lot of oak before but never red oak and a lot of the guys up there are saying the same I am saying about these logs and they just lay there cuz no one wants to work them, When I started to do this, this year I noticed a lot of logs where saws have tried and started cuts then decided not to finish nor even make it halfway, so this red oak just sits there untouched while everyone wonders aorund the woods for easier wood but it may sound greedy but I want this oak lol.

 

[bluequill56]

You might take an actual measurement of your depth gages. If they are too high, you will get poor cutting and overheating.

The other likely culprit is dirt. It could even be embedded in the wood. Did these trees grow next to a gravel road? Or in a flood plain?

I too cut a lot of red oak, and don't have any issues with it. Some of it standing or laying dead for years. Love the stuff.

 

[excess650]

I had cut some red and white oak similar in size to what you're speaking of in central Pa, and did it with my old Pro Mac 610(60cc) with 20" bar. I don't recall having any issues with that wood like you're speaking of, so something is odd about your particular red oak.

I've been cutting chestnut oak, tulip poplar, and black locust on my property in southern Virginia, and it definitely is abrasive. The wood itself isn't dirty on the outside, but it seems like it sucked up grit while it was growing. It dulls chains quicker than I would like, but I can generally get a tankful to a sharpening. A tank and a half and the chain is ridiculous.:censored: Friday I was cutting some small white pines to clear a right of way for power, and could occasionally see sparks as the chain touched the bark. None of these were more than 4", and growing in the forest well away from a public road.

 

[Poley4]

I would say you definitely have a dirt issue. My experience red, oak is easier saw than anything in the white oak family, especially when it is seasoned. I also believe that a 60cc saw is more than enough for 20" wood. Although I won't win any races, but I've cut that size stuff often with a 50cc saw without any bar or chain heating problems.

 

[GAPULPER]

It sounds like the wood has abrasive particles in it (sand, dirt) or there's an issue with your chains. Have you tried a new chain? If your chain is not sharpened properly, it will dull quickly. If you're using chisel chain, are you removing enough material to bring the cutting corner to a point with the chrome intact? Once the chain has gotten dull and you continue to operate with it, the chrome will start to come off and it will need to sharpened back to good chrome to properly hold an edge. Semi chisel will hold an edge better in dirty conditions and nitride coated semi chisel chain will typically hold an edge 2 to 4 times longer than non-nitride coated chain. I used nitride coated chain from Baileys for flush cutting a hundred or so 20 - 30" stumps. A 60cc saw will be slow going in 30 - 40" dried oak but if the chains are sharp and you take you're time, it can be done. Once the chain has dulled, it's best to stop or you may overheat and damage your saw. Based on what you're describing, I would carry 3 or more 80+ cc saws pulling 28" or longer bars with an extra chain for each. Hope you get it worked out.

 

[woodyman]

I have cut alot of red oak in the last 30 some years most of it with the husky 266SE 16 inch bar and alot of them were bigger than 20" and never had any problems,sharpened the chain every 1 or 2 tank fulls.Sounds like dirty wood

 

[husky455rancher]

i totally agree a even a little bit of dirt can kill a chains ability to really rip through the wood.

 

[stihl sawing]

ive cut 20 inch oak with my 250 and had no problem. Your saw is big enough. You have either a dirt problem or you're cutting petrified wood.LOL You might check the bar and make sure it is not mushroomed. It will make ya think you have a dull chain. If the oak resembles the wood in the pic, Then you may have to get something else to cut it with.

 

[woodyman]

I just remembered my brother got his MS361 last fall and he cut like two cords of old dead red oak with it and helped me cut five cords of red oak that died a year ago and he has not sharpened the chain yet.He has a 16 inch bar with the green chain.Just thought I would add that

 

[Nailsbeats]

Definitely check your bar for a lip first, then go out in dark and make some cuts to see if there are sparks flying, this will tell ya if you wood is dirty. If it is internal, borrow some elses saw.

 

[stihl sawing]

If it is internal, borrow some elses saw.

LOL, Yup, I agree.

 

[switchback87]

455?

I feel bad for you, I just cut a bunch of red oak here tonight with a 455 rancher and never even had to sharpen my chain?(20 inch full chisel) Two truck loads. I wonder if your rakers need to be filed? Hope you get it figured out.:greenchainsaw: