Home made Hookaroon

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How are you guys getting ur points so sharp? Just time with an angle grinder or?
 
I think I'm gonna make me one in the Spring. I have a pile of old shovel handles I keep 'just in case'. Will friction fit a 3 inch section of pipe over the end, drill through both, and do the lag-bolt-ground-to-a-pointy-tip thing with a couple of nylock nuts and washers.

Thanks for the inspiration!

Now how long should a 'regular' hookeroon be? A little longer than the distance from your wrist to the ground?

Some of the shovels had 'D' handles on them . . . .waddya think?

Philbert
 
I think I'm gonna make me one in the Spring. I have a pile of old shovel handles I keep 'just in case'. Will friction fit a 3 inch section of pipe over the end, drill through both, and do the lag-bolt-ground-to-a-pointy-tip thing with a couple of nylock nuts and washers.

Thanks for the inspiration!

Now how long should a 'regular' hookeroon be? A little longer than the distance from your wrist to the ground?

Some of the shovels had 'D' handles on them . . . .waddya think?

Philbert

"D" handle? No way. You'd get totally frustrated with it.

Harry K
 
Jack D, thanks for starting this thread on your homemade Hookaroon. After reviewing this thread a few times and researching how the hookaroon is used, I knew I had to make one. Thought I’d post my model. I looked around my shop for material and found a pipe 1 1/8” 37 inches long, an end piece of sucker rod with a coupling rusted on and a railroad spike. The material used gave some weight at the spike end. I then set about welding the hookaroon.

The raw material.

IMG_0721_zps0a65b123.jpg


The final product.

IMG_0722_zpsafde7010.jpg


I wanted the spike to have an slight cant to it. I jury-rigged the cut for 10* but in the end it came out at 12*. It seems to work well. I may cut the spike off and set it at 6*. Not sure on this just a thought. I will know better when I use the tool a while longer. I need to add the handle wrap and paint it a bright color so it is readily visible.

The business end.

IMG_0723_zps7819cdaa.jpg



The final specs on it is 42” long, 4lb. 3 oz., and a balance point 13’ from front of spike.
I really needed this tool the past few days. Today I tested it on some of the limbs and logs that I man handled yesterday. It sure worked good. This tool will be used often. Thanks again.
 
I use them all the time.

I have two styles around here. A couple of the 3 ft that are nice for unloading a truck, and a bunch of the "handy hooks"

Yep, indeed they can be made from what you got laying around, however I am gonna say that it is a fine piece of workmanship to do it better than the pros: Peavey Manufacturing Company - Makers of quality logging tools, handles and dowels since 1857

One thing to bear in mind. The little once can bite as well, be careful. I have missed with the long ones before and hobbled for a day or two from the impact into the foot. ouch.
 
Jack D, thanks for starting this thread on your homemade Hookaroon. After reviewing this thread a few times and researching how the hookaroon is used, I knew I had to make one. Thought I’d post my model. I looked around my shop for material and found a pipe 1 1/8” 37 inches long, an end piece of sucker rod with a coupling rusted on and a railroad spike. The material used gave some weight at the spike end. I then set about welding the hookaroon.

The raw material.

IMG_0721_zps0a65b123.jpg


The final product.

IMG_0722_zpsafde7010.jpg


I wanted the spike to have an slight cant to it. I jury-rigged the cut for 10* but in the end it came out at 12*. It seems to work well. I may cut the spike off and set it at 6*. Not sure on this just a thought. I will know better when I use the tool a while longer. I need to add the handle wrap and paint it a bright color so it is readily visible.

The business end.

IMG_0723_zps7819cdaa.jpg



The final specs on it is 42” long, 4lb. 3 oz., and a balance point 13’ from front of spike.
I really needed this tool the past few days. Today I tested it on some of the limbs and logs that I man handled yesterday. It sure worked good. This tool will be used often. Thanks again.
That is bad a$$, that is a medieval looking mo fo, but paint her up pretty orange so you can find it and yeah, looks like it will work very well.
That's what I'm talking about, there's always more than one way to do it, use what you got and take the 60 bucks you saved, put it in the cookie jar for the next chainsaw :rock:
I went with the no welding program,cuz my shop is mainly a wood shop so welding is done outside in warm weather
I am thinking of putting a spike right on the end parallel with the handle so I can stick it in the ground where ever I may be, like a peavey, use it, stick it in the ground, need it again, grab it, no bending over to pick it up.
 
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I have two styles around here. A couple of the 3 ft that are nice for unloading a truck, and a bunch of the "handy hooks"

Yep, indeed they can be made from what you got laying around, however I am gonna say that it is a fine piece of workmanship to do it better than the pros: Peavey Manufacturing Company - Makers of quality logging tools, handles and dowels since 1857

One thing to bear in mind. The little once can bite as well, be careful. I have missed with the long ones before and hobbled for a day or two from the impact into the foot. ouch.

Is this a miss type, A couple of the 3 ft that are nice for unloading a truck???
 
There are, of course, several professional manufacturers of hookaroons / pickaroons. Axe handles and forged heads and all. Can't always list them because some may not be site sponsors. What is fun about this thread is the idea of improvising a pretty good tool from common stuff.

Philbert
 
I used a 4" angle grinder. Note that I have the point shaped and bent a bit so it points back toward the handle - same as the Log Rite.

Harry K
Yeah, turnkey I was thinking maybe I should bend it a little and I am going to.
For those asking how I shaped it , my spike was not bent , I just grabbed it with a pair of channel locks and shaped it on the bench grinder
 
Where can U buy one like this made for logging???? I am thinking of putting a spike right on the end parallel with the handle so I can stick it in the ground where ever I may be, like a peavey
 
I am thinking of putting a spike right on the end parallel with the handle so I can stick it in the ground where ever I may be, like a peavey

That is a good idea. I am going to add one to this model. Since the rail spike is square at the top I was able to stick it into the ground and the handle would be held at an angle. The problem is if the ground is soft it would roll over and fall. Then I would loose it in the high grass. Sticking in the ground vertical is the way to go. Also since I do not have any handle wrap, sometimes when I went to stick some log it would rotate in my hand as the grip was not the best. It needs the wrap and the paint. This was a quick build to get me thru my current project.

Speaking of welding this thing, my generator/welder is in the barn. I used 2 pine rounds stacked one on the other as a work table and a D handled shovel to hold the end of the pipe. Not the best welding conditions. I even started a small grass fire but my boot took care of that problem.
 
I think I'm gonna make me one in the Spring. I have a pile of old shovel handles I keep 'just in case'. Will friction fit a 3 inch section of pipe over the end, drill through both, and do the lag-bolt-ground-to-a-pointy-tip thing with a couple of nylock nuts and washers.

Thanks for the inspiration!

Now how long should a 'regular' hookeroon be? A little longer than the distance from your wrist to the ground?

Some of the shovels had 'D' handles on them . . . .waddya think?

Philbert

Well I am thinking I might put more of a bend on the long one,like a quarter of a circle ,like half of this (
It would give pulling power with out having to grip so tight, my grip is not what it used to be
I don't think a D handle would work to good though

How long should it be ? some people like 36" the log rite is 30", I guess if U are taller U might want longer, but 4' might be good all around to, one guy made his from ice tongs and made 4 sizes
 
That is a good idea. I am going to add one to this model. Since the rail spike is square at the top I was able to stick it into the ground and the handle would be held at an angle. The problem is if the ground is soft it would roll over and fall. Then I would loose it in the high grass. Sticking in the ground vertical is the way to go. Also since I do not have any handle wrap, sometimes when I went to stick some log it would rotate in my hand as the grip was not the best. It needs the wrap and the paint. This was a quick build to get me thru my current project.

Speaking of welding this thing, my generator/welder is in the barn. I used 2 pine rounds stacked one on the other as a work table and a D handled shovel to hold the end of the pipe. Not the best welding conditions. I even started a small grass fire but my boot took care of that problem.

Well part of the idea of the tool is so U don't have to bend over, so if U can stick it in the ground U don't have to bend over n pick it up, just grab it.
I have a horizontal splitter so I pull the round over with the hookaroon then I have put it down and pick up he round , smaller ones U can pick right up with the hookaroon, any way I think it would so easy to grab n use sticking in the ground especially working in the woods
 
Well part of the idea of the tool is so U don't have to bend over, so if U can stick it in the ground U don't have to bend over n pick it up, just grab it.
I have a horizontal splitter so I pull the round over with the hookaroon then I have put it down and pick up he round , smaller ones U can pick right up with the hookaroon, any way I think it would so easy to grab n use sticking in the ground especially working in the woods

All so true. Yesterday I decided to add that forward spike. I also changed the cant angle to 5*. I cut the coupling a bit shorter so as to not add any more weight. So the weight is still the same. Testing it on some logs I believe the angle change is good. Another use for that forward spike is if you stick it and it does not release easily you can use that forward spike as a fulcrum and pivot the tool to easily release it. You can also use it to push or turn a round to resposition it. Now overall length is 45" with forward spike and 41" from working spike. This is a good size for me at 6' tall.
 
All so true. Yesterday I decided to add that forward spike. I also changed the cant angle to 5*. I cut the coupling a bit shorter so as to not add any more weight. So the weight is still the same. Testing it on some logs I believe the angle change is good. Another use for that forward spike is if you stick it and it does not release easily you can use that forward spike as a fulcrum and pivot the tool to easily release it. You can also use it to push or turn a round to resposition it. Now overall length is 45" with forward spike and 41" from working spike. This is a good size for me at 6' tall.

Sounds great, lets see a pic of that bad boy

I just cant see spending 65 bucks + shipping, for something like this U can make, especially if U have materials laying around to make it, plus U have the satisfaction of making it yourself ,and using it to make the gob quicker and easier

Here is another thing I made up for bucking, some people think these are unnecessary, but I like it, many different materials U could use ,old fish poles, dowels, magnets what ever, they are available to buy, I just made it from what I had.

Firewood Cutting Guide
I don't mind too much if my cuts are longer than 16 ,but sometimes I end up cutting them shorter and I don't like that.
I have a bunch of ,amateur band 2 meter, fire stick type mobile antennas, that I got free with an electronics grab box ,they have a tunable whip on the end , I have used them to make flags for off-road, and bicycles , so I took one apart and voilà , the nylon part on the end has a quarter inch Stub and it just so happens it is a 1/4-20 thread, so I grabbed a wing nut ,stuck it in the hole in the bar, and tightened it up , once tightened it will stay tight because the one part is nylon .
This thing is very light weight,and it is flexible .
Painted it red to see it. I stick it in back pocket till I need it again

View attachment 285301
 
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Beauty and the Beast. Where is King Arthur? I want to patent this thing.

IMG_0724_zps1eb013a5.jpg


IMG_0725_zps92043d14.jpg


Jack D as has been stated thanks for the inspiration. I learned about this tool and now I have one. I also saved some money as you pointed out. I may add a button to the end of the pipe in case I lose my grip, it does not go flying. Finally finished. Now to break it in and get it dirty.
 
Beauty and the Beast. Where is King Arthur? I want to patent this thing.

IMG_0724_zps1eb013a5.jpg


IMG_0725_zps92043d14.jpg


Jack D as has been stated thanks for the inspiration. I learned about this tool and now I have one. I also saved some money as you pointed out. I may add a button to the end of the pipe in case I lose my grip, it does not go flying. Finally finished. Now to break it in and get it dirty.
Thanks for the pics ET,Great job. I like to inspire. Right now ,as far as I know, you have a one of a kind tool.
I haven't got around to putting the spike on the end of mine yet , used it yesterday though, pulling logs outa the pile to cut to size n split.
Looks like yours will be around longer than you will , now it looks even more like a medieval weapon, I like it :msp_thumbsup:
 

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