Homelite Chainsaws

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I had to do the same. Disabled Javascript in Chrome and on my phone. Disabled scripting/advanced scripting in IE. Now it's kinda clunky, but at least I'm not getting the linkbucks crapola. BTW...............do a virus/malware scan. After getting that llinkbucks crap, I found 8 bugs in a scan...

That saw has the 4 petal pyramid reed setup. Tillotson HS as well. That saw is a Super XL-Automatic in cool colors. Quite a score indeed. Talk with ModifiedMark before he heads to the GTG if you can. IIRC he still has some NOS Homelite bars. Bet he'd hook you up with one for that saw. Check the bar studs. Should be 5/16', as that saw should be from before the switch to 3/8" studs..........but you never know. Tell Mark the stud size too. Of course, you could always do the spring stud spacer thing if you need to put a 3/8" slot bar on it (and it has 5/16" studs). Between that saw and your Canuck department store SXL-AO with the chainbrake, you've got a couple RARE ones from that series.
:clap:

Thanks Aaron. I like this one. The black SXL AO with the chain brake is special to me but it's so ugly it has to sneak up on a fuel can to get a drink.
I might try to polish and paint up this bar. You can see the remnants of the paint in this pic plus another of the ID plate. No UT numbers on most of thee saws plus I have never been able to come across an IPL if they even produced them. The saw does have 5/16" studs. I will have to find a fuel line for it as the parts of the one that is there is now just tar.

Sorry about the thumbnails but the pic function is gone with the Java disabled.
 

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I had to do the same. Disabled Javascript in Chrome and on my phone. Disabled scripting/advanced scripting in IE. Now it's kinda clunky, but at least I'm not getting the linkbucks crapola. BTW...............do a virus/malware scan. After getting that llinkbucks crap, I found 8 bugs in a scan...

That saw has the 4 petal pyramid reed setup. Tillotson HS as well. That saw is a Super XL-Automatic in cool colors. Quite a score indeed. Talk with ModifiedMark before he heads to the GTG if you can. IIRC he still has some NOS Homelite bars. Bet he'd hook you up with one for that saw. Check the bar studs. Should be 5/16', as that saw should be from before the switch to 3/8" studs..........but you never know. Tell Mark the stud size too. Of course, you could always do the spring stud spacer thing if you need to put a 3/8" slot bar on it (and it has 5/16" studs). Between that saw and your Canuck department store SXL-AO with the chainbrake, you've got a couple RARE ones from that series.
:clap:

I just left the house for half a day, came back and the linkbucks garbage was gone.
 
I moved quickly when I saw this one come up today. I am pumped.
I thought the seller musted have hit the wrong key and typed XL-67 instead of XL-76. I've been keeping my eye out for a blue and white one that was in nice shape. The model number is a mystery to me and I haven't been able to find any info on it. If anyone knows anything about it, a little info would be appreciated.

Thanks




Great score Tim :msp_w00t:
 
That is so very excellent. Never got into the XL12 series, but I wouldn't turn that one away.

You bringing it to Ohio?

Chris B.

Thanks Chris. I doubt I will be bringing much as it's kind of hard to lift heavy stuff right now. I am reluctant to bring saws I can't carry into customs and register as property I carried into the US. It's not likely the our government employees would venture a walk out to the car and they might hassle me upon return and I don't need that.
If Gregg is up to it next year I will bring a bunch of saws with me. Maybe I'll have the HC running by then.
 
I posted in the swap meet... but I am hurting for a piston and cylinder, or at least a piston and rings for my xp1020. A fellow member gifted this saw to me which makes it special to me anyway. Just tore this saw down tonight, and gave her a going through/ cleaning to find it burped a circlip... If any of you guys have any other ideas I am open to them.
Some decent gouging on cylinder, but below exhaust port. I may end up smoothing what I can and running it. Saw builds very good compression, especially given the circumstances.
 
I knocked my XL-12 off the bench this morning and broke the handle bracket. Anyone got one they want to sell before I go to ebay?
Cannon
View attachment 315076

Thanks to MRCo I've got the XL-12 back up and running. He sent me a bracket, handle and side cover. It still looks like I plowed the garden with it but that never mattered to me. Thanks to others who offered parts.
Cannon
 
I had to do the same. Disabled Javascript in Chrome and on my phone. Disabled scripting/advanced scripting in IE. Now it's kinda clunky, but at least I'm not getting the linkbucks crapola. BTW...............do a virus/malware scan. After getting that llinkbucks crap, I found 8 bugs in a scan...

That saw has the 4 petal pyramid reed setup. Tillotson HS as well. That saw is a Super XL-Automatic in cool colors. Quite a score indeed. Talk with ModifiedMark before he heads to the GTG if you can. IIRC he still has some NOS Homelite bars. Bet he'd hook you up with one for that saw. Check the bar studs. Should be 5/16', as that saw should be from before the switch to 3/8" studs..........but you never know. Tell Mark the stud size too. Of course, you could always do the spring stud spacer thing if you need to put a 3/8" slot bar on it (and it has 5/16" studs). Between that saw and your Canuck department store SXL-AO with the chainbrake, you've got a couple RARE ones from that series.
:clap:

I pulled the clutch today and there is no oil pump. There is what looks like a spacer bushing to keep the clutch more outboard. I also checked the bore and got 46+ mm but it's a bit off I'm sure as the port bridge is in the way.
Some of the Canadian saws are a mix of the US models. The VI 922 has the 77cc displacement like the VI 944 but has the electronic ignition like a VI 955.
Maybe the Super XL-67 is a mix of XL's?????
 
I pulled the clutch today and there is no oil pump. There is what looks like a spacer bushing to keep the clutch more outboard. I also checked the bore and got 46+ mm but it's a bit off I'm sure as the port bridge is in the way.
Some of the Canadian saws are a mix of the US models. The VI 922 has the 77cc displacement like the VI 944 but has the electronic ignition like a VI 955.
Maybe the Super XL-67 is a mix of XL's?????

That's damn strange. Your saw has the auto-oiler saw drivecase, oil tank (with the fill near the top handlebar bracket) and crankshaft (but with a spacer) instead of the 'normal' manual-only drivecase (with the oil fil at the bottom/rear of the saw below the cylinder). I've only seen ONE XL-12 series saw like that before. That's the early Super XL owned by Ckelp. I checked it out at his place a couple months ago. The intriguing thing on that saw was the auto-oiler type drivecase, with a welch plug in place of the 'usual' threaded brass (or plastic) auto oiler pickup body. Looking at your pictures, I think I see that same welch plug. IIRC Dave's saw also has a pyramid reed block. Haven't bothered checking the bore on it yet.

Homelite did equip some late XL-12
s (3.3ci saws with manual oiler only........with the 'normal' manual-only drivecase, crankshaft, and oil tank) with the pyramid reed. I have an IPL for them (Called XL-12 with pyramid reed intake by Homelite). IIRC that IPL is from LONG after the blue/white saws were being produced...........at least here in the states. Now I need to check the bore on Dave's saw. As his saw is a 'Super', it most likely has the 48mm bore. Here's the pics I took of it earlier...

CAM00305_zps5c457829.jpg

CAM00309_zps0607fa15.jpg

CAM00306_zps78e847e9.jpg
 
That's damn strange. Your saw has the auto-oiler saw drivecase, oil tank (with the fill near the top handlebar bracket) and crankshaft (but with a spacer) instead of the 'normal' manual-only drivecase (with the oil fil at the bottom/rear of the saw below the cylinder). I've only seen ONE XL-12 series saw like that before. That's the early Super XL owned by Ckelp. I checked it out at his place a couple months ago. The intriguing thing on that saw was the auto-oiler type drivecase, with a welch plug in place of the 'usual' threaded brass (or plastic) auto oiler pickup body. Looking at your pictures, I think I see that same welch plug. IIRC Dave's saw also has a pyramid reed block. Haven't bothered checking the bore on it yet.

Homelite did equip some late XL-12
s (3.3ci saws with manual oiler only........with the 'normal' manual-only drivecase, crankshaft, and oil tank) with the pyramid reed. I have an IPL for them (Called XL-12 with pyramid reed intake by Homelite). IIRC that IPL is from LONG after the blue/white saws were being produced...........at least here in the states. Now I need to check the bore on Dave's saw. As his saw is a 'Super', it most likely has the 48mm bore. Here's the pics I took of it earlier...

CAM00305_zps5c457829.jpg

CAM00309_zps0607fa15.jpg

CAM00306_zps78e847e9.jpg

Looks much the same. I can't tell if there's a plug in the case oil P/U hole or if they just used a short pin in the die.
I would be curious to know the PN of the drive case on Dave's saw. Mine is clearly marked. If interested the PN molded into that case is 59637.
I'll see if I can dig anything up on it. The muffler on mine is identical to the one in the pic of Dave's saw
I hear you are going to be a busy man for the next little while. Good luck with saving that GTG.
 
I disabled Java script on Firefox and this site is now working pretty well, tried it on Internet Explorer and Linkbucks is still there...

On IE, go to 'tools', 'internet options', 'security', 'custom', and then scroll way down the 'custom' list until you get to "scripting/auto scripting". Disable that, then cllick 'OK' and then 'OK' again. Works for me. The site is very clunky without Java script however. Wouldn't let me log in. Had to 'trick' it by trying to reply to a post. It then gave me a log in box that worked....
 
Guys, I am going to be on the lookout for another XP1020 to come down the pike, and keep the parts from mine as backup for the next one. So if anyone needs a nice XP1020 crank case complete with crank, con rod, and nice oil tank I will give it to you for free, and pay the shipping.

I have someone in line for it, but if he decides to pass I will go on to the next person.
Kills me to do it this way, but it will be more cost and time efficient for me to wait for a complete saw with good piston and cylinder and transplant my existing parts over, and do the paint/ decals together with the future saw.

Please don't PM me, just be the first to reply to this thread so there is no confusion as to who is first, yada yada. Again, one guy in line that offered me parts for this saw, if he declines it is on to the first person to reply to this post. I will edit this post when spoken for.
 
Guys, I am going to be on the lookout for another XP1020 to come down the pike, and keep the parts from mine as backup for the next one. So if anyone needs a nice XP1020 crank case complete with crank, con rod, and nice oil tank I will give it to you for free, and pay the shipping.

I have someone in line for it, but if he decides to pass I will go on to the next person.
Kills me to do it this way, but it will be more cost and time efficient for me to wait for a complete saw with good piston and cylinder and transplant my existing parts over, and do the paint/ decals together with the future saw.

Please don't PM me, just be the first to reply to this thread so there is no confusion as to who is first, yada yada. Again, one guy in line that offered me parts for this saw, if he declines it is on to the first person to reply to this post. I will edit this post when spoken for.

Never mind those parts, got anything interesting to trade for a good running and complete Super XP 1020AO? It's been gathering dust for a couple years. Quite frankly, given the weight of the C-series saws, it will get passed over everytime for the 2100.

Chris B.
 
Guys, I am going to be on the lookout for another XP1020 to come down the pike, and keep the parts from mine as backup for the next one. So if anyone needs a nice XP1020 crank case complete with crank, con rod, and nice oil tank I will give it to you for free, and pay the shipping.

I have someone in line for it, but if he decides to pass I will go on to the next person.
Kills me to do it this way, but it will be more cost and time efficient for me to wait for a complete saw with good piston and cylinder and transplant my existing parts over, and do the paint/ decals together with the future saw.

Please don't PM me, just be the first to reply to this thread so there is no confusion as to who is first, yada yada. Again, one guy in line that offered me parts for this saw, if he declines it is on to the first person to reply to this post. I will edit this post when spoken for.

Dibbs! (I think?)

I have a NOS piston 2.1875 dia. out of a box of Homie parts. No guarantee it is 100% sure a 1020 piston, but the price was right.

I send you the piston or you send me the carcass. Your choice.

Carl.
 
Dibbs! (I think?)

I have a NOS piston 2.1875 dia. out of a box of Homie parts. No guarantee it is 100% sure a 1020 piston, but the price was right.

I send you the piston or you send me the carcass. Your choice.

Carl.

Thanks for the offer Carl. Send me your address and I will get this case and crank out to you. It is in real nice shape, and pretty clean too. Bearings could be within spec, but I doubt it. This saw was sent to me as a gift, consider the case a gift and I will take care of shipping too.
 
Never mind those parts, got anything interesting to trade for a good running and complete Super XP 1020AO? It's been gathering dust for a couple years. Quite frankly, given the weight of the C-series saws, it will get passed over everytime for the 2100.

Chris B.

Thanks Chris, I sent you a PM.
 
How exactly does a gear drive work. If a saw has a 2:1 gear drive, and runs at 6000 rpm, does it double the chain speed, or reduce it by half for more torque, or neither? Thanks, Joe.
 
Thanks for the offer Carl. Send me your address and I will get this case and crank out to you. It is in real nice shape, and pretty clean too. Bearings could be within spec, but I doubt it. This saw was sent to me as a gift, consider the case a gift and I will take care of shipping too.

Cancel the 'dibbs'. I don't want to start with a stripped carcass. I have too many projects now.:msp_rolleyes:

Piston offer still holds.

How exactly does a gear drive work. If a saw has a 2:1 gear drive, and runs at 6000 rpm, does it double the chain speed, or reduce it by half for more torque, or neither? Thanks, Joe.

Yes. Double the torque so you can pull a longer bar with larger chain.
 
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