Homelite Chainsaws
- Thread starter briantutt
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Most of them turn to black mush. All you'll probably be able to do is clean out the mess and replace the valve, they sell them on ebay for about $2 apiece.
Your carb. metering lever is a bit high or you got trash in the needle/seat.
Fuel tank duckbill/vents are to allow air in as fuel is used. Most every saw will build tank pressure in warm weather.
Pressure is so bad it sprayed fuel over 20 ft over 45 min after saw was killed. Fuel acts as though boiling, but i think its just pressure from carb?
I dont think its carb. Just rebuilt.
Sent from my SCH-S720C using Tapatalk 2
I dont think its carb. Just rebuilt.
Sent from my SCH-S720C using Tapatalk 2
Ok put a fuel cap on from another super XLAO, fired her up, and fuel shot out from under the gas cap. Put original back on no such deal.
So now I'm utterly lost. Its now 60° out ran her on some white oak about 14" dia. and pulled cap. Still high pressure and gas boiling....
Will take case apart and do a thorough cleaning, reassemble case and see how she does tomorrow...
Sent from my SCH-S720C using Tapatalk 2
So now I'm utterly lost. Its now 60° out ran her on some white oak about 14" dia. and pulled cap. Still high pressure and gas boiling....
Will take case apart and do a thorough cleaning, reassemble case and see how she does tomorrow...
Sent from my SCH-S720C using Tapatalk 2
Sounds like you may have an issue with building heat from clogged cooling fins or running lean and creating alot of heat
I was thinking the HI speed needle adjustment
watsonr
Addicted to ArboristSite
You were on the right track the first time. Dirty clogged fins, missing fins from the flywheel, lean. 40:1 is fine, so is 50:1, that's not it.
If your engine is running hot I think I would run it a little rich on the oil side until you get it fixed.
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
The duckbill valve in the cap is NOT intended to keep the fuel tank from 'pressurizing'. It's a one-way valve to let air IN as fuel is drawn out while retaining fuel and pressure. There is almost always pressure in the tank, especially once the fuel warms up and vibrations 'shake it up'. As the other guys said, these saws will boil the fuel when they get hot. Clean the cylinder fins. Clean out the underside of the flywheel cover. BTW..............pressure in the tank will RAISE the boiling temp of the fuel. Lower pressure (like when you remove the cap) will lower the boiling temperature. That's why hot saws will suddenly boil the fuel when you remove the cap. Think of the radiator cap on your car....
dieselsmoke
ArboristSite Operative
Very well stated Bill Nye, errrr Aaron. :msp_wink:
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
I just cleaned out the crank case cover, clutch cover, and all the places in between that i could getbto qithout having to dismantle and this is what came out.
View attachment 293273
Most of this is just from the crank case cover.
Sent from my SCH-S720C using Tapatalk 2
View attachment 293273
Most of this is just from the crank case cover.
Sent from my SCH-S720C using Tapatalk 2
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
Don't forget the cylinder fins. That's where the cooling happens. Get that flywheel cover cleared out too. If air can't move through there it'll get HOT.
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
Nah I'm talking about the cover that goes over the flywheel (and contains the starter assembly). Clean the crankcase cover around the flywheel. Also clean the tin shroud that surrounds the cylinder (and the cylinder fins). Doesn't have to be spotless. Just trying to get the stuff that obstructs the airflow. It is good to get as much of the oily crap off of the fins as possible, as that'll help the passing air conduct heat off of them.
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
Got a pic? I've seen casting marks on flywheels that could be mistaken for cracks. Just marks on the surface.
