Homelite Chainsaws

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So a pair of 12282A will work for me?

The knowledge you guys have never ceases to amaze me!

While I'm generally pretty handy & mechanically inclined, and I've worked on about 2 dozen saws, these will be my first seal replacements. Any tips for a newbie?
 
Go slow and make sure you don't cock the seal. I like the SKF seals. Both are just fine but I think the SKF case diameter is about .0015" smaller. No difference in function, it's just easier to get in. Look where the seal depth is on the saw you are working on is before you take the old ones out and put them in the same way. The clutch side seal is flush with the case but I can't remember where the FW side one is set.
I have manuals for those. If you need one PM me and I send you a link you can download one from.
 
I have the Homelite Service Manuals that are called 3rd edition, 4th edition, etc... But they don't give much technical detail as far as procedure goes. If you have something better, please share!

I think I read somewhere here to use an appropriately sized deep-well socket?
 
I have the Homelite Service Manuals that are called 3rd edition, 4th edition, etc... But they don't give much technical detail as far as procedure goes. If you have something better, please share!

I think I read somewhere here to use an appropriately sized deep-well socket?

An appropriate sized fender washer over the crank before the socket can help keep you from walking the seal in too far. Stops flush at the seal pocket if that is where you want to keep it. Easy to get them crooked (for a ham-fist like me at least) with the larger chamfered sockets slipping on the lip of the case with the final couple of taps. That, or grind the chamfer off of a cheap socket perhaps. I have also considered capping a length of rigid PVC pipe, whiz bit a hole, JB weld a fender washer and using that. Similar in function to some service tools specified for the application.
 
An appropriate sized fender washer over the crank before the socket can help keep you from walking the seal in too far. Stops flush at the seal pocket if that is where you want to keep it. Easy to get them crooked (for a ham-fist like me at least) with the larger chamfered sockets slipping on the lip of the case with the final couple of taps. That, or grind the chamfer off of a cheap socket perhaps. I have also considered capping a length of rigid PVC pipe, whiz bit a hole, JB weld a fender washer and using that. Similar in function to some service tools specified for the application.

I have good luck using the back side of a larger socket. I use a soft hammer on that and go slow.
 
Some thin aluminum (beer can) can be cut to form a cone to slide the seal over any ridges that may be in the crank. Don't allow the metal to overlap when you roll it around, trim so that it just meets.

Use 2-stroke oil for lube in this process ...


A trick i do is use electrical tape on the crank. A few laps to meet the step. Last
lap over the step. Them i use STP instead of two stroke oil as the STP is slicker
than snot on a door knob. Install seal then remove tape. Shazam.



Lee
 
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