Warped5
WingNut
12282A on flywheel side ...
Homelite Chainsaws
- Thread starter briantutt
- Start date
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They're the same. Not sure why the numbers changed.
700, 800, 900 series all use the same both sides.
700, 800, 900 series all use the same both sides.
So a pair of 12282A will work for me?
The knowledge you guys have never ceases to amaze me!
While I'm generally pretty handy & mechanically inclined, and I've worked on about 2 dozen saws, these will be my first seal replacements. Any tips for a newbie?
The knowledge you guys have never ceases to amaze me!
While I'm generally pretty handy & mechanically inclined, and I've worked on about 2 dozen saws, these will be my first seal replacements. Any tips for a newbie?
Go slow and make sure you don't cock the seal. I like the SKF seals. Both are just fine but I think the SKF case diameter is about .0015" smaller. No difference in function, it's just easier to get in. Look where the seal depth is on the saw you are working on is before you take the old ones out and put them in the same way. The clutch side seal is flush with the case but I can't remember where the FW side one is set.
I have manuals for those. If you need one PM me and I send you a link you can download one from.
I have manuals for those. If you need one PM me and I send you a link you can download one from.
I have the Homelite Service Manuals that are called 3rd edition, 4th edition, etc... But they don't give much technical detail as far as procedure goes. If you have something better, please share!
I think I read somewhere here to use an appropriately sized deep-well socket?
I think I read somewhere here to use an appropriately sized deep-well socket?
An appropriate sized fender washer over the crank before the socket can help keep you from walking the seal in too far. Stops flush at the seal pocket if that is where you want to keep it. Easy to get them crooked (for a ham-fist like me at least) with the larger chamfered sockets slipping on the lip of the case with the final couple of taps. That, or grind the chamfer off of a cheap socket perhaps. I have also considered capping a length of rigid PVC pipe, whiz bit a hole, JB weld a fender washer and using that. Similar in function to some service tools specified for the application.
Warped5
WingNut
Some thin aluminum (beer can) can be cut to form a cone to slide the seal over any ridges that may be in the crank. Don't allow the metal to overlap when you roll it around, trim so that it just meets.
Use 2-stroke oil for lube in this process ...
Use 2-stroke oil for lube in this process ...
Here's a document I copied from someone?? a while ago. It's a Homelite list of superceded parts cross reference numbers. It comes in handy.
I have good luck using the back side of a larger socket. I use a soft hammer on that and go slow.
A trick i do is use electrical tape on the crank. A few laps to meet the step. Last
lap over the step. Them i use STP instead of two stroke oil as the STP is slicker
than snot on a door knob. Install seal then remove tape. Shazam.
Lee
Warped5
WingNut
That's downright clever.
I'm starting to think that if I hang out with you guys, I might just get smarter!
I'm starting to think that if I hang out with you guys, I might just get smarter!
Great tip about snot on the door knob. It's almost as bad as printer's ink on the toilet seat.
Warped5
WingNut
Something new arrived today ....
Warped5
WingNut
Yes Carl, it's cut for a bow bar ... but came with a 16" Homelite bar.
That one that Mo Jim has is a Super XL-15 ....
That one that Mo Jim has is a Super XL-15 ....
Tim - any photos of that printers ink???
Mark
Mark
That was 25 years ago. I think it's worn off now.
