How would you drop this? What saw?

[Trx250r180]

nip the sides before you back cut ,and do not stand in front or behind of the way it is going over ,work off the sides with a longer bar

 

[Gologit]

You are worried about this tree barber chairing so you are going to leave a 3-4" hinge? You're quite the expert. In addition your method requires you to spend lots of time right at the base. That is the danger zone.

Exactly right. I don't think I'd be comfortable working with that guy. I think I'd want to get in there and cut that thing quick, not be screwing around with a bunch of needless cuts. There's no doubt about which way it will fall...three cut it and be ready to run.

 

[treeslayer2003]

thats right Bob...........the reason i didn't say deep face is because i think it will move before you get it done. a shallow but open face and back it quickly.........if it moves run! it won't take much for it to move so you won't get a deep face in. it probobly will bust, at least a little.
prolly best for the op to leave it alone.

 

[OnTheRoad]

I lack the expertise of the experts on this board and I wouldn't want to tackle that baby.

But if I did, I'd want a 10mm 044 with a DP muffler and an HD2 filter.

 

[Trx250r180]

I lack the expertise of the experts on this board and I wouldn't want to tackle that baby.

But if I did, I'd want a 10mm 044 with a DP muffler and an HD2 filter.

I may have loled a little reading this ..............thanks

 

[SAWMIKAZE]

I lack the expertise of the experts on this board and I wouldn't want to tackle that baby.

But if I did, I'd want a 10mm 044 with a DP muffler and an HD2 filter.

 

[shootingarts]

It was 1 tree it split in 3 pieces. about 18ft up where the branches start it is almost 40" diameter. down at cut level it is less than 20" thick and at least 40" across. I am praying for a wind storm.

It makes me uneasy cutting the dropped stuff because the standing part makes lots on noise.

I have a nasty feeling you are working alone and that the part on the ground is still partially attached to the standing tree. If these things are true I suggest taking another amateur's advice and leaving everything there alone! Too many possible negatives.

You need a spotter, but you need a spotter that knows what they are watching for. That tree may come down on it's own when you remove the anchor holding it up, a real possibility when you say what is left is making a lot of noise when you saw what is on the ground. Is the tree going to break? Is the entire root ball going to flip up?

There just isn't much about that whole deal that looks like fun. An excavator is certainly first choice just for distance.

I know how I would try to cut it if I had to but I think I'll stay quiet. The advise has already been given in several ways but amounts to the same thing, cut so that the final cut only takes a few seconds and you have plenty of time to get the hell out of Dodge. That tree screams unintended consequences.

I would be willing to bet there are better options for firewood than meddling with anything there. A lot of things to go wrong. I wouldn't even want to be bucking that big stuff on the ground while trying to watch the tree at the same time. You need to be focused on what you are doing, not what that tree is doing.

Hu

 

[Marshy]

Throw a line in it and hook it to something heavy on wheels and see if it will pull over.

 

[Gologit]

thats right Bob...........the reason i didn't say deep face is because i think it will move before you get it done. a shallow but open face and back it quickly.........if it moves run! it won't take much for it to move so you won't get a deep face in. it probobly will bust, at least a little.
prolly best for the op to leave it alone.

You're right. I like to try for as deep a face as possible on leaners but it's tricky and very unforgiving. What I usually wind up with...and it varies from tree to tree...is something a little less than 1/3. If it's a heavy leaner it might be quite a bit less. The face cut on a leaner is very unforgiving. If you've ever had one set down on your bar on the gunning cut you know what I mean.
As a rule you're not going to be able to wedge your bar out so you wind up pulling the powerhead and starting over. If you screw up the next cuts and the tree eats the bar that you left hung in the tree things start getting expensive real fast.
You're right too about backing it up fast. That tree looks heavy and I doubt if you'd get down to a normal hinge before it started to talk. I think that the first time I heard it pop I'd be out of there.

 

[Red97]

more pictures of the monster.



the trunk is wider than I thought closer to 5ft across. The other sections are broken flush with the ground no roots attached.




thinnest part, about 20"

 

[7sleeper]

Definately a challenge.

7

 

[wyk]

I would use a 302 Echo with a 12 inch bar and go steep and deep.

Yer slidin'. Go grab your felling axe!

 

[wyk]

Sounds like Red is ready for his first GTG hosting! Wooo! Free beer! PLenty of wood - bring yer sawrs!

 

[stihl for life]

You are worried about this tree barber chairing so you are going to leave a 3-4" hinge? You're quite the expert. In addition your method requires you to spend lots of time right at the base. That is the danger zone.

I've always been taught to save a log . on bigger heavier trees with a sufficient amount on lean do need a less of a hinge. ( i will corret my self i do not no what i was thinking 2-3 would be good) Why I would bore and set it up so I could get out safely . when I ment dipest a little more the 1/3of the tree but from looking at the new pic he posted. my technique is not valid. Lol

 

[Wagnerwerks]

I know some of you think I'm a goober, but after the close up.... That looks even less challenging. I'm not saying it doesn't deserve respect or that it shouldn't be done with caution, but it looks like you could just give it a tiny trim up and then cut from the back. The biggest issue is getting cleaned up around it to give a good work area.

Just to clarify, I'm not an arborist, but I grew up with a chainsaw in the tractor every time we went back to the woods. I'm the local idiot that everyone calls to cut down the odd trees and I work for this like sides of beef and diesel fuel.

 

[Creeker]

You have seen it so have the best idea of how it all looks.
Someone mentioned a pole saw, not so bad an idea. My suggestion - (that lacks an onsite viewing) :-
Clear the rubbish from the ground and cut the bits hanging down from the standing trunk.
I wouldn't even try to cut in the face, it's to dangerous and it'll sit down on the bar/chain in the first few inches.
Having cleared escape routes, use the polesaw to put the back cut in, slowly. Don't let the tip of the cutter bar
point towards the direction of fall, it'll get pinched for sure.
It'll go over in less that 6" of back cut by the look of it.
Watch those long limbs when cutting it up, they might travel and collect you if it rolls.
Be careful !!

(We were typing at the same time wagnerwerk......)

 

[jughead500]

100ft cable and a truck or tractor to pull tension on the heavy side of the tree.shallow notch and cut a little at the time until you see our kerf start to open.keep the tension on the tree at all times.the cable will act as a safety it will still fall forward or side to side (heaviest side in this case) but wont fall backwards on you as long as the tree isn't cut completely thru the hinge making the tree trip off of the front of the stump.higher the cable is the better as long as its on sturdy wood and not a limb.

 

[Wagnerwerks]

Lol... That happens to me all the time. I'm always yelling at my kids or something while I'm typing and then someone types the same thing and post before me.....

 

[jughead500]

Put a log chain or a big ratchet strap around the tree a couple of feet up above you cut in case it starts splitting.

 

[Wagnerwerks]

Put a log chain or a big ratchet strap around the tree a couple of feet up above you cut in case it starts splitting.

That's great advice. I always chain trees like that and I never even thought to mention it.