Huztl MS 440 Initial Impressions, and Build

[Bedford T]

Tbohn posted one not sure it had a ruler. Message him

 

[Bedford T]

You recall there is 12 hour difference so getting back in a day is great. They sleep while you work and vise versa.

Nice looking saw. Certain to be a good runner.

 

[tbohn]

Ni

Finally, i was able to build up the saw tonight, I got in contact with Huztl and they normally get back to you in 1 to 1.5 days. They were very concerned that i got wrong or missing parts and were adamant about replacing those parts, they are in the mail as we speak. I had almost all the same problems as dwensen, with the chain brake spring being the wrong size, and the piston circlips being for a 10mm pin, and for my chain adjuster is definitely feels like crap but seems to work okay, i will run it till it brakes.
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Nice! Mine came with tapered bar studs. The non-tapered ones require a little more fussing when installing and tightening the bar. Also, the bolt head that holds on the silver bar guide looks like it is too large diameter. It will probably interfere with the slot in the bar. Watch for this. It could prevent solid tightening of the bar. They do have a smaller bolt but most of the kits that I have received have the large one. You can replace it or grind it down some.

 

[Bedford T]

Can you show us?

 

[EB Saw]

So the parts I have had to order;

• Throttle Rod - was MIA from the box.
• Carb - choke plate return spring too weak
• Chain adjuster assembly - the one in the box was just too "cheap feeling" for me
• Chain brake tension spring - the one in the box had the rear anchor hook manufactured incorrectly - not usable. Plus the coil diameters were too large to fit in the recess in the case. I think it might have been made for another saw.
• Piston pin circlips - the provided ones were crap, as the steel they were made from just bent on attempted installation - don't use them - get some 12x1 circlips from your dealer. Mine were 40 cents apiece.

For anyone thinking of getting the kit - I would do it again. Some of it took some serious thinking about how it should go together and in what" order the parts should be installed. The IPL and a micrometer were invaluable for getting the right length screws in the right places. Having an 036 nearby helped with how to route wiring.

It was a great big-boy jigsaw puzzle. Once I get my new parts, we'll see if I can get her started. I am a bit worried, as the tested compression with assembly oil on the rings was only 100 PSI, but the real proof will be when she starts.

If you never did anything to the cylinder and just put the base gasket on and bolted everything down, then if your cylinder came like mine then you have in the neighbor hood of .085 squish. Which may be the reason for such low compression, just my thought, also you can kill 2 birds with one stone, the port timing needs the cylinder to go down a ways to get to some reasonable numbers so by decking the cylinder you get close to the numbers and gain back the compression. Something to think about.

 

[Bedford T]

have any of you checked your squish besides eb? as i understand it, recently i was told, a quick way to check your squish is to take some 60/40 rosin core solder put it in the spark plug hole without it going into a port which would of course chop it off and it would cause problems and rotate the piston up down remove it and measure the thickness where it was hammered.

it would be helpful if we had some reports so we know if eb's was a one off. i will when I get it.

I have seen it put in 4 places along the top of the piston and the jug reinstalled and then checked. if its already assembled the one off would be good enough to give us an idea

 

[Ozhoo]

Here's the OEM vs Farmertech supplied spring. Same overall length, OEM has the clear sleeve and measures 2mm while Farmertech measures 2.2mm.

 

[Bedford T]

Do you think you can send some pictures with measurements on a ruler or something in the back ground so I can see, huztl asked me to send the measurements of a spring that worked. Thanks

that is a great comparison. they should be happy with those

 

[tbohn]

Tbohn posted one not sure it had a ruler. Message him

have any of you checked your squish besides eb? as i understand it, recently i was told, a quick way to check your squish is to take some 60/40 rosin core solder put it in the spark plug hole without it going into a port which would of course chop it off and it would cause problems and rotate the piston up down remove it and measure the thickness where it was hammered.

it would be helpful if we had some reports so we know if eb's was a one off. i will when I get it.

I have seen it put in 4 places along the top of the piston and the jug reinstalled and then checked. if its already assembled the one off would be good enough to give us an idea

I checked mine without a base gasket with 0.038" solder. It was greater than 0.038". It would be greater than 0.058" with the base gasket.

 

[Bedford T]

thats 2 reports

 

[blsnelling]

Through the spark plug plug hole is the only way I ever check squish. However, you'll need to check two opposing sides at the same time.

BTW, proper squish is about far more than just compression. It's about squish velocity. IMHO, the kind of squish you guys are seeing is completely unacceptable. There's really no excuse to make these that sloppy.

 

[Bedford T]

Well straighten us out by telling us how to do it

 

[blsnelling]

Do what? Check squish? I check it through the spark plug hole checking two opposing sides at the same time, as mentioned.

 

[Bedford T]

It just seemed like there was more to it. Pushing the solder in that far and avoiding getting it pinched off I guess might not be that hard.

Thanks for sharing that

 

[blsnelling]

I check front and rear, and then left and right. I put the piston near TDC before I start. It's critical that the solder contact the cylinder wall, as that's where your tightest squish should be. If not, the squishband was not machined correctly, also adversely affect squish velocity. This seems to be another big problem to watch out for in AM cylinders.

 

[Bedford T]

that nailed it

 

[Bedford T]

Darin a moderator just sent links to both guys to merge the threads. I guess instructions were included.

 

[EB Saw]

Yes it is very easy exactly what Brad said, the am cylinders tolerances aren't great but honestly for 27$ what do you expect. I took mine to a machinist and in 15 miniuts it was decked and squish was made proper, I can't stress enough the prep that goes into getting the cylinder ready to run properly, due to the shaky manufacturing tolerances. Just take your time and calculate everything out. I will be posting some more reviews of the parts including the cylinder tonight.

 

[tbohn]

I check front and rear, and then left and right. I put the piston near TDC before I start. It's critical that the solder contact the cylinder wall, as that's where your tightest squish should be. If not, the squishband was not machined correctly, also adversely affect squish velocity. This seems to be another big problem to watch out for in AM cylinders.

I THINK that because the squish band is so narrow on these cylinders, excessive squish velocity is not really an issue.

At 30 mils squish, 13,500 RPM, and assuming the squish band is basically parallel to top of the piston, the squish velocity is <15m/s. At 20 mils its less than 20 m/s.
(I just received my internet PhD on squish velocity this afternoon!)

 

[Bedford T]

Are you actually doubting it will start?