i might be doing a bone head move here so flame me

[Moparmyway]

Close, but not quite. 128oz/gal. Easy to figure exactly.Without spelling out all the math, it works out this way:

4oz of oil/gal is 36:1


Your label maker flunks math. I'm glad he isn't employed to calculate the amount of medication required for IV use for heart problems, general anesthesia, etc.!!

Ummmm....,,
YOU also flunk math.
128/4=32

 

[MarkEagleUSA]

What about those of us using canned fuel? I'm running the Husky 50:1 premix in my AT saws, and TruFuel 50:1 in all my other saws and 2-stroke equipment. Should I be adding oil to get to 40:1 or 32:1?

 

[steved]

I'm subscribing just to see the outcome...

 

[Moparmyway]

yep,, another oil thread,,,been doing a lot of research on the different oils,, reason for that is that the echo power blend that i have been using keeps going up and up in price,, right now it is 2.50 for a 2.6 oz bottle,, enough for 1 gallon,, so i decided to do a lot of reading to see what everyone else is using,,,, i have been using the echo power blend for years with no issues

I have been using the Echo full synthetic @ 32:1 and I allways have a coating of oil on the internals after dumping the tank and idling her until she runs out of gas. Still wet, however I have some hard carbon build up on the piston tops, scrapes from carbon to the first ring land in the piston, and carbon embedded in the ring gap, scoring the cylinder. Admittedly I do run my adjustable carb engines somewhat rich, but this is on backpack blowers, float carbs and nothing to adjust. On my adjustable ones, some carbon on top - but no scoring. I did not like what I saw. I did enjoy reading Masterminds perspective on 2 cycle oils, and have since switched to BelRay h1r, or Maxima K2. Both are outstanding as virtually no carbon is to be found anywhere. Slight oily residue on the piston top by the exhaust that wipes off with my grubby finger.

No more carbon anywhere.

 

[olyman]

I wouldn't even use 50:1 in a clapped out Wild Thangy

straight!!

 

[a. palmer jr.]

The conundrum of two cycle oil is that it has to burn, but it can't burn(up). I mean it has to be combustible enough that when it burns, it burns clean and leaves very little or no deposits on the reciprocating parts and exhaust port/ muffler. Yet, there has to be enough marbles left over (after combustion) that the moving parts have a slathering of protection from metal to metal contact. This whole low rate oil mix thing is COMPLETLY EPA DRIVEN! If you can afford to buy a saw and toss it every five or so years, then follow your all knowing government's guidelines for OPE emissions compliance. If on the other hand, you tend to cling to your assets, (I still have the first saw I ever owned, bought new in 1975, 32:1 from day one, never had the jug off the saw, exactly one carburetor kit since new) then, use some oil in your mix. Which is cheaper, a jug of oil or a jug for your saw?

Actually, some of the better 2 stroke oil doesn't burn, it goes through the engine, lubes it and goes out the exhaust as a vapor. If you use too much of it, the oil will go out as a liquid, messing up the front of the saw, leaving it all greasy. The Stihl oil that I use leaves a slight residue so some of it gets burned, I don't believe the Klotz or Bel Ray oils leave any residue other than a liquid.

 

[sunfish]

What about those of us using canned fuel? I'm running the Husky 50:1 premix in my AT saws, and TruFuel 50:1 in all my other saws and 2-stroke equipment. Should I be adding oil to get to 40:1 or 32:1?

If I used the can fuel, I'd get the 40:1. No way I'd run the 50:1 stuff!

 

[a. palmer jr.]

If I used the can fuel, I'd get the 40:1. No way I'd run the 50:1 stuff!

I checked the price of that stuff last week and wouldn't run either. For the price of a quart of that stuff I could mix a gallon or so...

 

[sunfish]

I checked the price of that stuff last week and wouldn't run either. For the price of a quart of that stuff I could mix a gallon or so...

I wouldn't run it either, but some do.

 

[MarkEagleUSA]

I checked the price of that stuff last week and wouldn't run either. For the price of a quart of that stuff I could mix a gallon or so...

I wouldn't run it either, but some do.

My problem is I just don't use enough mix and there's no source of affordable e-free fuel around here.

 

[sunfish]

My problem is I just don't use enough mix and there's no source of affordable e-free fuel around here.

That's fine and makes sense.

 

[o8f150]

since you guys are talking about the premix then heres a good example for you,,, dad has almost a new stihl weedeater,, he is 85 years old and its hard for him to start it,,, he used pumped gas with the stihl oil,,, even with so called fresh gas he still had problems starting it,,, so i picked up a can of 40:1 tru fuel for him the other day,, i drained out the pumped gas and put in the tru fuel,,, 3 pulls and it was running,,,, a week later he said he went to start it and 3 pulls it was running with no problem at all,, he was tickled that it started so easly,,, the only thing i had to do was lean the high and low side out just a tad,, i told him as long as he kept the cap on tight it would be good for 2 years,,, he only uses a quart of mix a year,, he does a lot of spraying,,,, so in a nut sahell his situation the canned fuel mix is ideal,,, for me its not since i go through roughly 3 gallons of mix unless we cut a lot of wood

 

[SCHallenger]

Close, but not quite. 128oz/gal. Easy to figure exactly.Without spelling out all the math, it works out this way:
2.6oz of oil/gal is 49.23:1
2.56oz of oil/gal is 50:1
3.2oz of oil/gal is 40:1
4oz of oil/gal is 36:1
To get a 40:1 mix using a 2.6oz bottle of oil you need to use .8gal of fuel

Your label maker flunks math. I'm glad he isn't employed to calculate the amount of medication required for IV use for heart problems, general anesthesia, etc.!!

4 oz of oil/gal is 32:1 isnt it?

Right you are! After doing the math I put up a typo??!? Thanks for the correction.

 

[SCHallenger]

4 oz of oil/gal is 32:1 isnt it?

Fixed it.

 

[KenJax Tree]

128(oz in a gallon) divide by the ratio you want say 32:1. 128/32=4 so 4oz for 32:1

 

[SCHallenger]

Ummmm....,,
YOU also flunk math.
128/4=32

Actually I did the math OK but didn't copy my nos. correctly. After Troylee caught the error I edited the original post to reflect the correction. Good to know that people are reading this seriously. Errors like I just made don't help.

 

[SCHallenger]

128(oz in a gallon) divide by the ratio you want say 32:1. 128/32=4 so 4oz for 32:1

Yup!

 

[troylee]

But over qualified to make labels, you only made 1 mistake.......LOL

 

[7sleeper]

I believe Ultra is FB - can you get Super in the US? Also, Super is not full synthetic.

JASO Engine Oil Standards Implementation Panel [ Filed Two Cycle Gasoline Engine Oil List ]
1 September 2014
Performance Brand Name Submitter Name Oil Code classifications
STIHL HP Super Andreas Stihl AG & Co. KG049STI011 FD

@BBP,

You got something mixed up in your listing. Stihl HP Super is only a semisynthetic oil.

7

 

[GrassGuerilla]

i might be doing a bone head move here so flame me

Scott, of all people, I thought you'd know all about lube bro.

50:1? Hell no!