An 026 will struggle with a 20" bar bucking firewood.
I need help deciding
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fearofpavement
Trying them all
I think the 026 would be your best bet to get you going. At $200, even if you had to put $100 into it, you'd still be ok as that's about half of what an equivalent new one would cost.
When looking at a saw here's what I check for:
Does it start, idle, cut, oil the bar, chain brake operational and doesn't make any weird sounds?
I like to pull the exhaust system (not difficult) and look at the piston and cylinder through the exhaust port and spark plug hole. The piston should look oily and smooth, you should be able to see the piston rings go past as you slowly pull the starter rope and the piston moves up and down. The piston should not have vertical lines/stripes on it. If it does, this is "scoring" and the engine will need to be overhauled. This would be a no go issue.
A compression check is helpful but not enough by itself. The 026 should have 150psi or more if it's healthy. There's a lot of variations in compression testers, etc so this in and of itself is not that telling.
If the saw runs ok, it's probably ok. Sometimes saws can have coil or other issues that will cause them to run for a period (up to ten minutes or more) and then quit. So that isn't easy to tell in the parking lot of a pawn shop. If you can get some kind of warranty, even if it's just a few days, to "prove" the saw, that would be good. I have made some good buys at pawn shops but 99% of them are overpriced. Don't overthink this first saw. Get one you like that's in your budget and get to work with it.
Get some safety chaps, a helmet, eye protection and hearing protection and wear all of it all the time. And at the minimum you should wear steel toe boots when cutting although special chainsaw boots are available. Don't be out there in running shoes or Crocs. A saw can cut you so badly you'll bleed to death before you can get to help so don't scrimp on the PPE list. About $100 or less will increase your safety.
Let us know how it all comes out.
When looking at a saw here's what I check for:
Does it start, idle, cut, oil the bar, chain brake operational and doesn't make any weird sounds?
I like to pull the exhaust system (not difficult) and look at the piston and cylinder through the exhaust port and spark plug hole. The piston should look oily and smooth, you should be able to see the piston rings go past as you slowly pull the starter rope and the piston moves up and down. The piston should not have vertical lines/stripes on it. If it does, this is "scoring" and the engine will need to be overhauled. This would be a no go issue.
A compression check is helpful but not enough by itself. The 026 should have 150psi or more if it's healthy. There's a lot of variations in compression testers, etc so this in and of itself is not that telling.
If the saw runs ok, it's probably ok. Sometimes saws can have coil or other issues that will cause them to run for a period (up to ten minutes or more) and then quit. So that isn't easy to tell in the parking lot of a pawn shop. If you can get some kind of warranty, even if it's just a few days, to "prove" the saw, that would be good. I have made some good buys at pawn shops but 99% of them are overpriced. Don't overthink this first saw. Get one you like that's in your budget and get to work with it.
Get some safety chaps, a helmet, eye protection and hearing protection and wear all of it all the time. And at the minimum you should wear steel toe boots when cutting although special chainsaw boots are available. Don't be out there in running shoes or Crocs. A saw can cut you so badly you'll bleed to death before you can get to help so don't scrimp on the PPE list. About $100 or less will increase your safety.
Let us know how it all comes out.
Thanks for the advice Adkranger! I will do that.
Mesupra I did just check out that 359. I think I pm the guy. I clicked on his name then hit start conversation. Is that how you pm him?
Would that 359 be better than say the 272xp or 441 for the money and what I'd be getting?
I definitely wasn't planning to spend around $500 but if that thing will cut circles around the 026 then I will definitely consider it
Mesupra I did just check out that 359. I think I pm the guy. I clicked on his name then hit start conversation. Is that how you pm him?
Would that 359 be better than say the 272xp or 441 for the money and what I'd be getting?
I definitely wasn't planning to spend around $500 but if that thing will cut circles around the 026 then I will definitely consider it
Matt81
Bliss: Saw full of fuel and yard full of trees!
On that we both agree. The OP said that his max budget is $300 but would stretch to $500 if it meant "getting a saw that's twice as good and so on". He also has questioned needing a bigger than 20" bar as he can borrow his brothers bigger Stihl if he needs a bigger bar than 20". A 026 will get the job done nicely in that price range, and allow him to buy PPE and some extra chains etc and still be under his $500 max. But yes there are saws that will run a 20" better.
Any of those others mentioned will be much stronger than a 026. An 026 is a good saw, but not near the level of modern 50cc saws.
That depends how big and hard the wood is. A good running 026 hasn't much of a struggle cutting softer woods 12 to 14" w/ a 3/8 20" bar, .325 would do better for power cause of gearing. If I had only 1 saw and it was an 026, I'd run a 20" on it for my backs sake.
Rather though have something closer to 60 cc for a 20" in bigger wood, if weight isn't an issue, go 70cc and you can pull a 28" if need be but for average wood. 20 to 24" on 70 cc is ideal for me. If I were you I'd most look for a reliable 60 to 70 cc, probably what you will utilize most for production unless you have big trees, a bigger saw would fill the bill then. But I will emphasize a 2nd and 3rd saw has big advantages and especially a small used inexpensive saw with a shorter bar will save a lot of more expensive, time consuming chain maintnence on your bigger saw using it for the harsher cuts that dull faster and it can give you a break from the bigger saw using it limbing when you start tiring.
Matt81
Bliss: Saw full of fuel and yard full of trees!
Thanks for the advice Adkranger! I will do that.
Mesupra I did just check out that 359. I think I pm the guy. I clicked on his name then hit start conversation. Is that how you pm him?
Would that 359 be better than say the 272xp or 441 for the money and what I'd be getting?
I definitely wasn't planning to spend around $500 but if that thing will cut circles around the 026 then I will definitely consider it
Firstly what Stihl model saw does your brother have that you refer to that you could borrow if you need a bigger bar?
The 359 is a pro construction saw with a metal (magnesium) crankcase. Technically it is not a pro model saw as it does not hold the XP designation. It's power to weight is ok. It is a smaller engine and less powerful than both the 272xp and the 441. It will definitely be stronger than the 026 but not twice as quick in making a cut or anything like that. 026 is like 3.2 hp and 359 is like 3.9 hp. I remember considering the 359 when i bought my first Dolmar 5105. Power and weight were very similar but 5105 is 50cc and 359 is 60cc. Plus the Dolmar was a fair bit cheaper. I went with the Dolmar and was so impressed i bought another. You have to decide if the smallish extra hp gain from the 026 to the 359 is going to justify the much increased purchase price. Remember you need some decent PPE if you don't already have some, and good quality gear to protect you costs money. Maybe blowing your budgets upper limit on only the saw is not the way to go?
safetyboy715
ArboristSite Lurker
I run a stihl ms 362 and 180C. I have found that I use the snmall saw mostly and the bigger one for when the logs get larger than 12" I had a MS290 that I used for years, but sold it when I needed a powerhead capable of an occasional use of a 24" bar. I usually run a 20" on the 362 and a 14 on the 280. I have also found it nice to have a second saw for when I pinch one of them. I pinch less and less as I have become more experienced but it still happens from time to time. I recommend the 290 and one of the small saws like a ms 170. Buying these two saws new will definately exceed your budget by quite a bit, but you will have 2 good saws for lots of years with this pair. Just my 2 cents. I cut 2-8 cords a year depending on the circumstance. The guys here are definately right about the pro saws being much more powerful and lighter. The 362 is a fun saw to operate and you will probably end up trading up in a few years as I did
When buying used, condition is EVERYTHING. Stay away from whupped looking saws, unless you want a saw to work ON instead of WITH. I would stay away from 'seller refurbished' saws with Aftermarket jugs, unless you verify the quality of the AM parts, and the workmanship.
I am firmly a 50cc/ 70cc combo guy. That opinion comes from years of use, not just something I picked up off the web. If you are 29, a Marine, and in good shape, and are going to buy ONE good saw, in my opinion you should make it a 70cc saw. Think 268/ 272, 371/ 372, 2071/ 2171, 044/ 440, etc.
From your list, and not knowing the condition of any of the saws, the 268xp looks to be the best buy. Again, in my opinion.
I am firmly a 50cc/ 70cc combo guy. That opinion comes from years of use, not just something I picked up off the web. If you are 29, a Marine, and in good shape, and are going to buy ONE good saw, in my opinion you should make it a 70cc saw. Think 268/ 272, 371/ 372, 2071/ 2171, 044/ 440, etc.
From your list, and not knowing the condition of any of the saws, the 268xp looks to be the best buy. Again, in my opinion.
Well sheet, right when I was about set on the 026 you guys had to make me rethink my strategy ha
I guess I never really looked at the 272xp or the 268xp. They both look like great saws that can handle longer bars. Definitely more power than the 026 it looks like and if the 268 is the same price as the 026 would that be one to consider?
When were these saws made? Is the 268 newer or older than the 272. Would the 272 really be worth the extra money?? It looks like there practically identical. I could be wrong though. I'm still open to getting the 026 but now leaning toward the xps.
I guess I never really looked at the 272xp or the 268xp. They both look like great saws that can handle longer bars. Definitely more power than the 026 it looks like and if the 268 is the same price as the 026 would that be one to consider?
When were these saws made? Is the 268 newer or older than the 272. Would the 272 really be worth the extra money?? It looks like there practically identical. I could be wrong though. I'm still open to getting the 026 but now leaning toward the xps.
Swamp Yankee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Trade Ins
Another possible option is some saw shops take saws in trade go through them if they're in decent shape and then put them back out on the "used" shelf. See if you can find out which shops in your area service logging and arborist / tree service accounts as they probably, though not always, are good places to start. The two local shops I deal with, especially this time of year will often have several used pro saws out on display.
For example the local Stihl dealer currently, as of last week, had 2 really clean MS360s and a super clean MS361 all in your budget range.
Two other advantages to going this route, saw shops, at least the one's I deal with, offer a 30 day parts and labor warranty on their used saws. The second, as it's used they have no issue putting some fuel in one if you're interested and letting you give it a test drive out on the pile.
Shops have different policies on trades, but it might be worth a google search for local saw dealers, and spending a little time on the phone to see what if anything might be out there.
And in reply to the question just posted the 268XP came first and eventually morphed into the 272XP.
Take Care
Another possible option is some saw shops take saws in trade go through them if they're in decent shape and then put them back out on the "used" shelf. See if you can find out which shops in your area service logging and arborist / tree service accounts as they probably, though not always, are good places to start. The two local shops I deal with, especially this time of year will often have several used pro saws out on display.
For example the local Stihl dealer currently, as of last week, had 2 really clean MS360s and a super clean MS361 all in your budget range.
Two other advantages to going this route, saw shops, at least the one's I deal with, offer a 30 day parts and labor warranty on their used saws. The second, as it's used they have no issue putting some fuel in one if you're interested and letting you give it a test drive out on the pile.
Shops have different policies on trades, but it might be worth a google search for local saw dealers, and spending a little time on the phone to see what if anything might be out there.
And in reply to the question just posted the 268XP came first and eventually morphed into the 272XP.
Take Care
Ironworker
Addicted to ArboristSite
There is a couple of good options right here in the trading post, a 359, a 365, an 036 and I have a 560xp, I will throw in an 18" bar and chain since it is your first saw. Either way for the amount of wood you are cutting I would spend as much as possible for a saw and if you can stretch it and have a good dealer a new saw would not be a bad idea, good luck and let us know how you make out.
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
You will get a variety of opinions, because people have varying expectations, and because firewood gathering covers a wide range of things. You have hardwood and softwood of different sizes, cutting for sale or for personal home use, and splitting, moving and stacking by hand or with equipment. If you are cutting for your own use and must split by hand, the time you spend cutting with a saw will be a small percentage of the total time invested, and so reducing it by even a significant percentage doesn't really impact the job much. That's my situation. So when I read that a 50cc "pro" saw (an undefined term) cannot pull a 20" bar I have to laugh, since I run 20" bars on cheap "homeowner" saws and they work just fine. My house stays warm, and I don't own any saws that would normally be considered "pro" - most of them are in fact "junk" in AS terms.
The bottom line is that you can certainly get a saw that will pull a 20" bar within your budget (if indeed 20" will do what you need).
The bottom line is that you can certainly get a saw that will pull a 20" bar within your budget (if indeed 20" will do what you need).
A 359 will stomp an 026 in pretty much every situation, and really wakes up when modded... But a 24" bar would be max, with a 20" being the reasonable choice. I still prefer a 70cc saw for all around use.
The best thing to do is run different saws as much as possible, and you will figure out what you like and what you don't. I've been through a bunch of saws in the recent past to get where I'm at now.
The best thing to do is run different saws as much as possible, and you will figure out what you like and what you don't. I've been through a bunch of saws in the recent past to get where I'm at now.
Not sure if you have a Home depo that rents saws near you but if you do go and see if they will sell you a makita 6410 off the line. Usually go for $250 or so and will handle 20" to 24" bar/ chain easy. Little heavy but top shelf vibration, tough bottom end, pro construction, built like a truck and we all have one here so we could walk you through any "events".
Its the ugly fat red headed chick down the road....always there, not much to brag about but willing and able to get the job done.
Where are you located ? Maybe you can catch a gtg and run them all and see which one lights you up
Its the ugly fat red headed chick down the road....always there, not much to brag about but willing and able to get the job done.
Where are you located ? Maybe you can catch a gtg and run them all and see which one lights you up
You forgot "easy to upgrade to 84cc or 79cc in the future."
They are great saws, the same basic platform as the Dolmar 6400-7900
ok everyone, I've decided im just going to go buy something because i have too many options at this point haha
I really just want to get out there and start cutting. If i can pick up the 029 for $200 and everything is good to go on it, then that might be the saw i use for a while. Yes i know its underpowered for the bigger jobs but i need to start somewhere. If i could get that 272 for $250 Id probably get that one but doubt they will go that low. Ive decided to keep my budget at around $250 since i need PPE.
Im going to the store now to do some negotiating, wish me luck!
I really just want to get out there and start cutting. If i can pick up the 029 for $200 and everything is good to go on it, then that might be the saw i use for a while. Yes i know its underpowered for the bigger jobs but i need to start somewhere. If i could get that 272 for $250 Id probably get that one but doubt they will go that low. Ive decided to keep my budget at around $250 since i need PPE.
Im going to the store now to do some negotiating, wish me luck!
Chris_In_VT
Brrraaaaap!
I have to agree with fearofpavement on not spending your whole budget on a saw, save some for PPE. Good chaps are a must. Eye\ear protection also a must. Saws are loud (and guys here like to make them louder) and throw chips, twigs, and other things to hurt your eyes. If you're bucking wood in a log pile, you probably don't need a helmet, but if in the woods, I'd get one. Plus they're handy in that they have ear and eye protection together. Boots, the kevlar chainsaw boots or the viking rubber boots are best, but steel toes work.
Good luck with whatever saw and equipment you buy!
Good luck with whatever saw and equipment you buy!
well guys I bit the bullet and bought the used 026. I negotiated the price down from $250 to $180 though
So after tax i paid $190 and it looks like its in decent shape. I havent had it inspected yet but i dont think i got ripped off right?
I'm assuming even if i have to put some money into it it was a good deal.
Also they gave me a 14 day in store credit return if i dont like it. So i can return it for a different one basically.
Here are some pictures i just now took
So after tax i paid $190 and it looks like its in decent shape. I havent had it inspected yet but i dont think i got ripped off right?
I'm assuming even if i have to put some money into it it was a good deal.
Also they gave me a 14 day in store credit return if i dont like it. So i can return it for a different one basically.
Here are some pictures i just now took
Ya did ok. Take the muffler off and check out the piston. Also search here for pressure and vac testing on the seals. Simple and easy tests to confirm condition before you score the top end. All you should need for now is a scrench and a scrench with a t27 end on it for service. Good luck. I think the 20" bar is a bit much for that saw so don't bury it too deep in a real hardwood.
Post up some pics of the cyl and we'll help ya out.
Post up some pics of the cyl and we'll help ya out.
