Kart Saw / Hot Saw

[ozflea]

Ok all you toothslayers .......................



Heres my little ol Mac 92 uses a Dykes ring

McBob.

 

[ausneil 1]

I still have to get the fuel tank mounted up. Here is the tank I have (thanks stude54).

And I think it will end up something like this, any comments or suggestions? Am I overlooking anything important so far?

I should mention that I realize there is no exhaust hooked up yet. Hopefully I can get together with mxracer the first part of August and we can get something together, otherwise it will be the kart header.

Mark

Coming along very nicely, I like others would love to see it run.

 

[heimannm]

Took one step forward and two steps back with my 101 saw last night. Following Leeha's advice I bought some SS tig rod to make up a new throttle linkage, had to buy a pin point butane torch as well, that worked out O.K. I ended up removing the return spring from the BDC carburetor and will rely on the one in the handle of the saw but is really seems to work nicely.

While working on the oiler linkage I had to remove the fuel tank mount bracket. One of the screw/nuts holding it on had stripped thread (overzealous securing it I guess) and in the process of getting it apart I broke part of the air box. Now I have to decide on modifying another airbox, or trying to repair this one...

Carburetor came out of the USC looking pretty good, I put it together with a NOS metering diaphragm and the fuel pump diaphragms that were in it when I got it as they looked to be O.K. I do have a new kit coming for the BDC. I used the duck bill from a fuel cap 53766, but did remember to cut off three of the six tits as I believe I read somewhere that was necessary. Can anyone confirm that is the correct approach?

I still wonder who will start this one for me, does anyone bolt a plate to the bottom to step on when you start it like the old Pioneers? I may have to do something like that.

I did order some additional chain this week so I should be able to make up an appropriate loop for which ever sprocket I decide to run.

I will try to get some updated photos tonight if there is anything new to report.

Mark

 

[nmurph]

Are you going to paint the fuel tank???

Very nice work, and I need to to drop by and stage my shop!:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[heimannm]

I am trying to decide what to use for paint on the fuel tank, ideally something that will stay on with a bit of spilled fuel...look at the size of the fuel cap!

Mark

 

[OREGONLOGGER]

Mark,

There is no reason to turn into a McBob

That's funny...there's a reason there completly out of Yamaha mufflers across the pond

 

[avason]

Very Nice..When you finish with that one, can you make this one look like that too.:msp_razz:
View attachment 306934

View attachment 306935

 

[heimannm]

Certainly! Box it up and send it my way...

I just noticed the foot pad on yours, something I have been thinking will be needed on my project as well.

Mark

 

[avason]

You did a hell of a job with that one. The one I posted is not mine buy my father in laws. A couple guys on here pointed me in the right direction to get parts for it. Keep up the great work!

 

[ozflea]

Mark the footpad is indeed a excellent idea keeps the saw from rolling around during the starting procedure I even made a boot loop for the rear handle out of 4130 steel so my right foot could help stabilize the saw

McBob.

 

[ozflea]

That's funny...there's a reason there completly out of Yamaha mufflers across the pond

No yamies on mine ol mate

 

[McC]

Mark, I just found this, sorry I don't spend as much time on here as I used to. I put a compression release in the head of my 92, and am very glad I did. It's just a husky item, drill and tap the head. You won't need a stirup, or shoulder surgery if you put a release in yours. The custom handle support looks great. The air box chop looks great, hope you can fix it, there isn't much left to hold it together after the chop. I am really looking forward to seeing you and your saw on the 17th.
Scott

 

[rwoods]

Mark, below is the set up that was on my saw as received (101B with "regular" 125 adjustable carb - 196 psi compression). The only drawback I noted was my failure to recheck the valve between every pull - which would result in jerking the saw out of your control and/or hurting your arm when it was expectantly closed. I plan to put one in my running kart motor and I have purchased a spare head just for that purpose. Ron

View attachment 306979View attachment 306980

 

[ozflea]

Mark, below is the set up that was on my saw as received (101B with "regular" 125 adjustable carb - 196 psi compression). The only drawback I noted was my failure to recheck the valve between every pull - which would result in jerking the saw out of your control and/or hurting your arm when it was expectantly closed. I plan to put one in my running kart motor and I have purchased a spare head just for that purpose. Ron

View attachment 306979View attachment 306980

Even real He-Men need a little help at times all my 101 hotsaws have a decompressor makes life easy

McBob.

 

[McC]

Mark, below is the set up that was on my saw as received (101B with "regular" 125 adjustable carb - 196 psi compression). The only drawback I noted was my failure to recheck the valve between every pull - which would result in jerking the saw out of your control and/or hurting your arm when it was expectantly closed. I plan to put one in my running kart motor and I have purchased a spare head just for that purpose. Ron

View attachment 306979View attachment 306980

Yes, be sure to push the button after every cranking, even if you don't think it fired to close the valve. You'll be in for a nasty surprise if you don't.
Scott

 

[Bill G]

Yes, be sure to push the button after every cranking, even if you don't think it fired to close the valve. You'll be in for a nasty surprise if you don't.
Scott

Scott,

I completely agree but in my experience the advanced timing is the one that gives me a hard surprise

 

[heimannm]

Confession is good for the soul, so here is the result of my mistake two days ago.

I had the tank bracket secured to the air box, but needed to remove it to work on the linkage for the manual oiler. When I tightened the screws, I evidently over did it a bit and one was stripped so I could not remove the nut. Because of the close quarters, I could not get a wrench or even pliers on the nut so I was trying to split it with a chisel and knocked a hole in the air box.

I decided to try and repair rather than make up a new one, so I taped over the hole, clamped the tank bracket in position with a pair of long nose locking pliers, and installed some 10-24 threaded inserts over the projecting screws. To improve the grip of the JB weld, I roughened up the area around the hole.

I proceeded to make a "dam" around the area with tape, plugging the oiler button hole with plumbers putty. Plumbers putty is pretty cheap, easy to mold, and the oil in it keeps the JB Weld from sticking to it so it really works well for this kind of application.

Pour in the JB and wait until tonight.

I am hoping that with a bit of filing and sanding, throw a little paint at it, and calling it a part of my design I can get away with this fix.

Mark

 

[boda65]

I am hoping that with a bit of filing and sanding, throw a little paint at it, and calling it a part of my design I can get away with this fix.

Mark

Mark, very clever repair and I think it will hold up just fine. However if it doesn't I'm pretty sure I have a 1-4x handle/airbox you are welcome to.
Jim

 

[heimannm]

Thank Jim - I have plenty of extra parts saws, I just didn't want to have to start from scratch on this one right now.

One day when I have some time, I may scrounge around in the attic and prepare a few more handles with the modified air box just to have on hand. Once you get one fixed up and have a good idea what it should look like, making up a few more is relatively easy. I just have to dedicate a day when I can fill the shop with aluminum and magnesium chips and not worry about it too much.

Mark

 

[heimannm]

I didn't take any "in process" photos smoothing it up a bit, but after I slopped some paint on it, it almost looks like it was intended that way. There were a few air pockets in the JB patch but I expect it will work for a while.

Mark