Kart Saw / Hot Saw

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Mark

What a fine example of a vintage saw, a lovely restoration and, looking forward to seeing a video of it cutting something.

Thank you Mark for allowing me to copy your pic's.
Neil
 
Stick with a 9 or 10, it's easier for a novice to operate and less time cutting out the back end of the
bar to make it fit.
 
This is a large mount Husky bar that can run a 9 tooth just cut out the end of the bar and profile
it to match the sprocket.


This started off as a 84dl 24" Stihl ES bar, it's been cut to run a 72dl chain and 11/12 tooth sprocket.
You have to cut a new oil hole, adjuster hole, and bar stud groove a lot of work.
Takes serious horse power to run 11+ tooth sprockets.




12 tooth sprocket.
 
Thanks Blood - I had envisioned something along those lines but wanted to confirm.

For now I will try to use the bars it suitable sprockets I have, depending on how this goes I may start looking for another bar to work with the larger sprockets as I would hate to desecrate the NOS Oregon roller nose even with the rust.

Mark
 
I guess on the rim size issue, since you have options you can work up. My ported one runs a 10 .404 and could probably do with an 11... and I haven't piped it, yet?
 
Thanks Blood - I had envisioned something along those lines but wanted to confirm.

For now I will try to use the bars it suitable sprockets I have, depending on how this goes I may start looking for another bar to work with the larger sprockets as I would hate to desecrate the NOS Oregon roller nose even with the rust.

Mark

I ran a stock 288, and MS660 with 16" bars and 9 tooth sprockets cutting 12" round white pine this weekend.
A big Mac like that a 10 with 3/8 chain would probably work great.
 
How did their times compare?

My 2nd cookie with the 660 was too thick and had to go very slow to not cut out on the 3rd cookie.

Three cuts with the 660 was 9.80 and the 288 was a 8.11, a better run with the 660 and they would
have been dead even.
 
Another day, another hiccup...

I took Scott and Bob at their word and decided I needed to add the compression release. I don't have a mill yet (hoping for a mill/drill soon, probably a Grizzly but that's another story) so I used my drill press with an end mill to get started. Once I had the mill as far as it could go, I needed something with a larger OD to provide adequate clearance for a wrench to insert and remove the valve. Fortunately I had a 3/4" carbide tipped router bit with a 1/2" shank so spin the drill press up and feed it ever so slowly.

I looked at the tap & die chart and grabbed the drill bit and finished the hole, only to discover I'd read the wrong column and drilled an over sized hole. Helicoil kit is now ordered, should be here Tuesday.

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I still have high hopes to be ready for Baraboo, just in case the BDC will not cooperate, I went ahead and got a Tillotson HR & intake all ready to go.

Mark

oh how I wished you would have called. ive got nearly every American fine and coarse up to inch...
 
Sorry Scott, I rarely think to ask for local help. It's done now in any case.

At 8:38 PM CDT it ran for several minutes good throttle response though it loads up a bit at idle, doesn't really idle down even with the screw backed all the way out. Not sure but it may simply be too much carburetor?

I took the chain off for the trial run and will leave it off for a bit tomorrow until I get most of it sorted out. I am starting to think I may actually get to cut some wood at Baraboo!

Mark
 
Sorry Scott, I rarely think to ask for local help. It's done now in any case.

At 8:38 PM CDT it ran for several minutes good throttle response though it loads up a bit at idle, doesn't really idle down even with the screw backed all the way out. Not sure but it may simply be too much carburetor?

I took the chain off for the trial run and will leave it off for a bit tomorrow until I get most of it sorted out. I am starting to think I may actually get to cut some wood at Baraboo!

Mark

If your running gas through an alky carb BDC16 then that's the problem
 
Good to hear Mark. Hopefully you'll get it running good.
 
It doesn't look a lot different, but here it is almost complete. I will add the kart header tonight, maybe I will make a new throttle linkage and try the HR22 but the way it was running with the BDC it didn't seem to be getting too much fuel other than loading up a bit at "idle".

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The oiler linkage binds a little bit but you really have to take the whole top end off to make an adjustment. I guess if I am going to change carburetors anyway, I might as well fix the oiler if I can.

Oh by the way, I was waiting for a carburetor kit for the BDC16, was supposed to be in a collection that came last week with the HR22 & intake but it was missing. The point of that is I did not have the 4 screws putting the carburetor together secured and two of the four nearly fell out during the trial run, perhaps that is part of the problem as well...

Mark
 
Mark, whatever you do, don't throw that 101 head in the trash... find a good weldor and they will be able to weld new aluminum into that hole for you to try it again.

Or if that costs too much, send it to me. Welding problems like that is something else I intend to learn how to do...
 
It doesn't look a lot different, but here it is almost complete. I will add the kart header tonight, maybe I will make a new throttle linkage and try the HR22 but the way it was running with the BDC it didn't seem to be getting too much fuel other than loading up a bit at "idle".

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The oiler linkage binds a little bit but you really have to take the whole top end off to make an adjustment. I guess if I am going to change carburetors anyway, I might as well fix the oiler if I can.

Oh by the way, I was waiting for a carburetor kit for the BDC16, was supposed to be in a collection that came last week with the HR22 & intake but it was missing. The point of that is I did not have the 4 screws putting the carburetor together secured and two of the four nearly fell out during the trial run, perhaps that is part of the problem as well...

Mark
Is it just me or in the second pic down the piston looks scored?
 
It does look like scoring, but it is just oil/carbon streaking from the little bit of running. The piston and cylinder are still just like new. Of course they should be, the cylinder was just bored and the piston is new.

Mark
I thought you had mentioned that. Ok just wondering. This is a great looking saw.
 

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