Well, this is a bit of a sticky wicket, is it not???
Mark
Mark
Kart Saw / Hot Saw
- Thread starter heimannm
- Start date
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Just mill the tail off
ausneil 1
Addicted to ArboristSite
Mark
What a fine example of a vintage saw, a lovely restoration and, looking forward to seeing a video of it cutting something.
Thank you Mark for allowing me to copy your pic's.
Neil
In truth, it is a hack job but a little paint and careful photography can work wonders...
Bill - a little more detail on how to modify the bar if you will. I am not sure how I can modify the tail to improve the "tracking" of the chain.
Thanks,
Mark
Bill - a little more detail on how to modify the bar if you will. I am not sure how I can modify the tail to improve the "tracking" of the chain.
Thanks,
Mark
BloodOnTheIce
Addicted to ArboristSite
Stick with a 9 or 10, it's easier for a novice to operate and less time cutting out the back end of the
bar to make it fit.
bar to make it fit.
BloodOnTheIce
Addicted to ArboristSite
This is a large mount Husky bar that can run a 9 tooth just cut out the end of the bar and profile
it to match the sprocket.
This started off as a 84dl 24" Stihl ES bar, it's been cut to run a 72dl chain and 11/12 tooth sprocket.
You have to cut a new oil hole, adjuster hole, and bar stud groove a lot of work.
Takes serious horse power to run 11+ tooth sprockets.
12 tooth sprocket.
it to match the sprocket.
This started off as a 84dl 24" Stihl ES bar, it's been cut to run a 72dl chain and 11/12 tooth sprocket.
You have to cut a new oil hole, adjuster hole, and bar stud groove a lot of work.
Takes serious horse power to run 11+ tooth sprockets.
12 tooth sprocket.
Thanks Blood - I had envisioned something along those lines but wanted to confirm.
For now I will try to use the bars it suitable sprockets I have, depending on how this goes I may start looking for another bar to work with the larger sprockets as I would hate to desecrate the NOS Oregon roller nose even with the rust.
Mark
For now I will try to use the bars it suitable sprockets I have, depending on how this goes I may start looking for another bar to work with the larger sprockets as I would hate to desecrate the NOS Oregon roller nose even with the rust.
Mark
cpr
Addicted to ArboristSite
I guess on the rim size issue, since you have options you can work up. My ported one runs a 10 .404 and could probably do with an 11... and I haven't piped it, yet?
BloodOnTheIce
Addicted to ArboristSite
I ran a stock 288, and MS660 with 16" bars and 9 tooth sprockets cutting 12" round white pine this weekend.
A big Mac like that a 10 with 3/8 chain would probably work great.
nmurph
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BloodOnTheIce
Addicted to ArboristSite
My 2nd cookie with the 660 was too thick and had to go very slow to not cut out on the 3rd cookie.
Three cuts with the 660 was 9.80 and the 288 was a 8.11, a better run with the 660 and they would
have been dead even.
Another day, another hiccup...
I took Scott and Bob at their word and decided I needed to add the compression release. I don't have a mill yet (hoping for a mill/drill soon, probably a Grizzly but that's another story) so I used my drill press with an end mill to get started. Once I had the mill as far as it could go, I needed something with a larger OD to provide adequate clearance for a wrench to insert and remove the valve. Fortunately I had a 3/4" carbide tipped router bit with a 1/2" shank so spin the drill press up and feed it ever so slowly.
I looked at the tap & die chart and grabbed the drill bit and finished the hole, only to discover I'd read the wrong column and drilled an over sized hole. Helicoil kit is now ordered, should be here Tuesday.
I still have high hopes to be ready for Baraboo, just in case the BDC will not cooperate, I went ahead and got a Tillotson HR & intake all ready to go.
Mark
oh how I wished you would have called. ive got nearly every American fine and coarse up to inch...
Sorry Scott, I rarely think to ask for local help. It's done now in any case.
At 8:38 PM CDT it ran for several minutes good throttle response though it loads up a bit at idle, doesn't really idle down even with the screw backed all the way out. Not sure but it may simply be too much carburetor?
I took the chain off for the trial run and will leave it off for a bit tomorrow until I get most of it sorted out. I am starting to think I may actually get to cut some wood at Baraboo!
Mark
At 8:38 PM CDT it ran for several minutes good throttle response though it loads up a bit at idle, doesn't really idle down even with the screw backed all the way out. Not sure but it may simply be too much carburetor?
I took the chain off for the trial run and will leave it off for a bit tomorrow until I get most of it sorted out. I am starting to think I may actually get to cut some wood at Baraboo!
Mark
ozflea
Good ol' BP Zoom 25-1
If your running gas through an alky carb BDC16 then that's the problem
It doesn't look a lot different, but here it is almost complete. I will add the kart header tonight, maybe I will make a new throttle linkage and try the HR22 but the way it was running with the BDC it didn't seem to be getting too much fuel other than loading up a bit at "idle".
The oiler linkage binds a little bit but you really have to take the whole top end off to make an adjustment. I guess if I am going to change carburetors anyway, I might as well fix the oiler if I can.
Oh by the way, I was waiting for a carburetor kit for the BDC16, was supposed to be in a collection that came last week with the HR22 & intake but it was missing. The point of that is I did not have the 4 screws putting the carburetor together secured and two of the four nearly fell out during the trial run, perhaps that is part of the problem as well...
Mark
The oiler linkage binds a little bit but you really have to take the whole top end off to make an adjustment. I guess if I am going to change carburetors anyway, I might as well fix the oiler if I can.
Oh by the way, I was waiting for a carburetor kit for the BDC16, was supposed to be in a collection that came last week with the HR22 & intake but it was missing. The point of that is I did not have the 4 screws putting the carburetor together secured and two of the four nearly fell out during the trial run, perhaps that is part of the problem as well...
Mark
promac850
formerly promac610
Mark, whatever you do, don't throw that 101 head in the trash... find a good weldor and they will be able to weld new aluminum into that hole for you to try it again.
Or if that costs too much, send it to me. Welding problems like that is something else I intend to learn how to do...
Or if that costs too much, send it to me. Welding problems like that is something else I intend to learn how to do...
Roll Tide
Trolltide
Is it just me or in the second pic down the piston looks scored?It doesn't look a lot different, but here it is almost complete. I will add the kart header tonight, maybe I will make a new throttle linkage and try the HR22 but the way it was running with the BDC it didn't seem to be getting too much fuel other than loading up a bit at "idle".
The oiler linkage binds a little bit but you really have to take the whole top end off to make an adjustment. I guess if I am going to change carburetors anyway, I might as well fix the oiler if I can.
Oh by the way, I was waiting for a carburetor kit for the BDC16, was supposed to be in a collection that came last week with the HR22 & intake but it was missing. The point of that is I did not have the 4 screws putting the carburetor together secured and two of the four nearly fell out during the trial run, perhaps that is part of the problem as well...
Mark
It does look like scoring, but it is just oil/carbon streaking from the little bit of running. The piston and cylinder are still just like new. Of course they should be, the cylinder was just bored and the piston is new.
Mark
Mark
Roll Tide
Trolltide
I thought you had mentioned that. Ok just wondering. This is a great looking saw.
