McCulloch Chain Saws

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Me to LOL.


My first thought was that it was the pulse hole, but when I pour fuel in the throat and get it started, it will pull fuel to the carb. So if I am correct that should rule out the pulse hole being blocked. But, until I put fuel in the carb and get it to fire it wont pull fuel at all, so maybe its not ruled out. It looked like the hole was in the right location. The filter seems to flow fine when I pulled the carb and cleaned it. If its not the impulse hole, the only other thing I can think of would be something is plugged under the welch plug. I still have not been able to find any IPL on this carb, so I cant order plugs with any certainty that they will be correct LOL. I am still looking for a replacement carb, for the time being I will continue to try and get this one sorted out.

Just thought of this, when I got the needle and seat to seal I stretched the spring a little to insure a seal. Is it possible that its not allowing fuel to pass through? After I first did it it ran good though. It wasnt until it sat for a few days it started to not pull fuel.

Verify the impulse in the tank. I've had one plugged with goo weakening the impulse. I haven't had good luck locating welch plugs for the shatbacks, but they are out there at the kart suppilers. If you pull them and find the high side has the weep filter bushing and not the check ball, let me know. I have an extra weep filter kit I'll send you. It didn't come with the plug though, dang it all. Another thing, and I cannot explain why, the filter diaphram needed to be set just so on some I've worked on or it wouldn't pump no matter what I did. I haven't yet identified what equals success there.

Good luck. God willing, I'll get back with the program here and there this summer. I'm getting itchy...
 
Verify the impulse in the tank. I've had one plugged with goo weakening the impulse. I haven't had good luck locating welch plugs for the shatbacks, but they are out there at the kart suppilers. If you pull them and find the high side has the weep filter bushing and not the check ball, let me know. I have an extra weep filter kit I'll send you. It didn't come with the plug though, dang it all. Another thing, and I cannot explain why, the filter diaphram needed to be set just so on some I've worked on or it wouldn't pump no matter what I did. I haven't yet identified what equals success there.

Good luck. God willing, I'll get back with the program here and there this summer. I'm getting itchy...

Hope all is well with ya, hope your not working too hard:cheers:.

I did look at the impulse port in the tank, and from what I could see visibly it looked clear. I will try a thin piece of wire I have and see if I can feel anything. What I find weird it when I pour fuel down the throat and start it, it fires and I can see it suck fuel. That is the only time it will suck fuel, and as soon as what I pour runs out it wont pull any more. I just dont think this carb likes me LOL.

I have seen the 48890b carburetor mentioned a few times. What is special about that one? Would it be a good one for either the 797 or 890? I am still looking for a Tilly but I have seen this one a few times and was wondering about it.
 
Brian, Doe's your carb still have the filter in the carb?
I have seen them so plugged you can't get fuel in the carb.
Also, Make sure you have the correct carb mounting gasket.
I have seen two different types where the pulse hole
is in a different location. Ask me how i know.

Just a thought

Lee

I had the same problem with the first mac carb that I worked on. Pulled it down several times to clean it and even installed a new check ball kit. Finally I found out that the gasket between the carb and the intake wasn't covering the impulse passage on the carb completely.
 
Apologies to Eccentric, I haven't been able to get to the 77 yet but did get side tracked on a couple of saws that I just wanted to get cleared off the bench.

First up was a 3-10 DSP that I picked up at the Iowa GTG last May. Muffler was broken in a few places, saw was pretty dirty, and the fuel tank was a mess.

189615d1309873645-dscn4566-jpg


189616d1309873647-dscn4574-jpg


189617d1309873648-dscn4575-jpg


I was totally amazed at what 45 minutes of scrubbing with purple cleaner did for the varnish when solvents wouldn't even begin to cut it (check the time stamps on the phot's if you don't believe me).

189618d1309873649-dscn4577-jpg


Finished product

189619d1309873650-dscn4594-jpg


Mark
 
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The other one on the bench is an SP105 that came out of the big box from Washington. I've had it around for over a year and through it runs, the oiler wasn't working. I managed to free up the check valve on the pick up line and now the manual oiler works well, but the pulse operated automatic oiler is still not functioning. I think the little spring for the check valve on the outlet side (in the pulse operated oiler) has been damaged.

The two SP105's just out of the box

189621d1309874773-dscn1015-jpg


The check valve

189625d1309874778-dscn4578-jpg


The pulse operated automatic oiler laid out

189622d1309874775-dscn4585-jpg


It's a little dirty, but I haven't done anything more that a little cleaning with compressed air

189623d1309874776-dscn4589-jpg


When I pulled this one down I discovered someone had replaced the intake boot with a modified Stihl unit. It was working, but since I had the right parts on hand I went ahead and replaced it with the McCulloch original.

189624d1309874777-dscn4590-jpg


I still need to find the small spring, but I think this one will be ready for the woods after that. Seems to have good compression though I haven't checked it with the gauge yet, starts easily, idles well, and even has a good muffler and the guard over the muffler.


Mark
 
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Hope all is well with ya, hope your not working too hard:cheers:.

I did look at the impulse port in the tank, and from what I could see visibly it looked clear. I will try a thin piece of wire I have and see if I can feel anything. What I find weird it when I pour fuel down the throat and start it, it fires and I can see it suck fuel. That is the only time it will suck fuel, and as soon as what I pour runs out it wont pull any more. I just dont think this carb likes me LOL.

I have seen the 48890b carburetor mentioned a few times. What is special about that one? Would it be a good one for either the 797 or 890? I am still looking for a Tilly but I have seen this one a few times and was wondering about it.

All is good although I could use more than the 3 or 4 hours of sleep I've been getting lately. Sooner or later there won't be any candle left to burn.

The 48890b is identical to the saw flatbacks except for no choke or primer and a .940 throttle bore as opposed to the .847 or whatever it is in the saw ones. I have one for the MC91 project and want another for the other Super 797 whenever I get around to it :msp_tongue:.
 
610 vs 610 super

Hello all, my first post in this thread, because I just got my first McCulloch, and it is a 610 something, I saw one on evilbay that says it's a 610 super because the beginning of the serial # starts with a # 13 , is that how to id a super, and also what is the real difference between the two?
 
I have one IPL that lists the Super 610, PM605, 610, 650, and Eager Beaver 3.7 all in one. The only thing I see is a different crank case / cylinder and piston for the 650, everything else including the crank shaft and connecting rod are the same on all three.

With McCulloch, just saying "Super" was enough to make some saws perform better...

Mark
 
All is good although I could use more than the 3 or 4 hours of sleep I've been getting lately. Sooner or later there won't be any candle left to burn.

The 48890b is identical to the saw flatbacks except for no choke or primer and a .940 throttle bore as opposed to the .847 or whatever it is in the saw ones. I have one for the MC91 project and want another for the other Super 797 whenever I get around to it :msp_tongue:.

I think I would like to get one of these to. More air and fuel cant be bad for a saw right;). I have found a body for a decent price, but have not pulled the trigger because I didnt know whether they used the same diaphragm and pump parts. Carbs are still my weakest point. Still have a lot to learn with them. When I get one to work its usually on accident LOL.
 
Hello all, my first post in this thread, because I just got my first McCulloch, and it is a 610 something, I saw one on evilbay that says it's a 610 super because the beginning of the serial # starts with a # 13 , is that how to id a super, and also what is the real difference between the two?

You will find that McCulloch Corporation had quite a marketing team. A lot of saws have different names, but little to no difference with the previous model, but then again some models had different numbers and serious differences.


The "standard" 250 and the Super 250 had some major differences in the motor, as well as some oiler differences and aesthetics. I believe your 610 and a 610 Super are about the same.


10-10s had about a dozen different models, some LH start, some RH start, one electric start, different gas tanks, different air filters, atleast 2 different motors and so on. McCulloch was a master of advertsing/marketing, as well as engineering. Sometimes it's hard to tell the differences without lots of research.



Chris
 
===
I was totally amazed at what 45 minutes of scrubbing with purple cleaner did for the varnish when solvents wouldn't even begin to cut it (check the time stamps on the phot's if you don't believe me).
====
Mark

Purple cleaner?

I've got a couple tanks look just like that and digging the crud out with chop sticks is getting old, for sure.
 
I think I would like to get one of these to. More air and fuel cant be bad for a saw right;). I have found a body for a decent price, but have not pulled the trigger because I didnt know whether they used the same diaphragm and pump parts. Carbs are still my weakest point. Still have a lot to learn with them. When I get one to work its usually on accident LOL.


IMHO Brian, I think i would wait for a good HL63 carb.
Cheaper to buy, Cheaper to rebuild and seem to have
less issues. I only used the 48890 carbs looking for a
bit more power but not really sure if got it.
An engine will only benefit from a larger carb if it can
use it. You can over carb an engine as well and lose
power. The 797 might be ok with it but i thing the 890
would suffer.


Lee
 
IMHO Brian, I think i would wait for a good HL63 carb.
Cheaper to buy, Cheaper to rebuild and seem to have
less issues. I only used the 48890 carbs looking for a
bit more power but not really sure if got it.
An engine will only benefit from a larger carb if it can
use it. You can over carb an engine as well and lose
power. The 797 might be ok with it but i thing the 890
would suffer.


Lee

I understand what your saying and I am still watching for a HL-63. I was thinking the larger carb on the 797 and putting the working carb out of the 797 in the 890. I definitely dont want to spend money to lose power LOL. For now I will just keep playing with the one thats on there until I find the right one.
 
I understand what your saying and I am still watching for a HL-63. I was thinking the larger carb on the 797 and putting the working carb out of the 797 in the 890. I definitely dont want to spend money to lose power LOL. For now I will just keep playing with the one thats on there until I find the right one.

Brian,

I have an HL-63E for you, dropped you a PM.




Chris
 
I have one IPL that lists the Super 610, PM605, 610, 650, and Eager Beaver 3.7 all in one. The only thing I see is a different crank case / cylinder and piston for the 650, everything else including the crank shaft and connecting rod are the same on all three.

With McCulloch, just saying "Super" was enough to make some saws perform better...

Mark

I have one called "Timber Bear".
 

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