new 200t rear handle

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OLY-JIM

OLY-JIM

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Thanks guys, I hope it works out well for me...So...is the 339xp really a much better saw then the ms200 rear handle?

I have a little time on both of these saws (I do not own either one)...in my opinion the answer is NO...they're both nice...try to run them both and decide which one feels best to you. I like the 200, but I tend to lean towards STIHL because I generally like the way that they feel in my hands and because of the service quality that is available locally. The presence of an MS 200 is an abundantly prominent theme amongst tree service crews and arborists in the PNW. I see them all the time in this capacity.
 
kevinj

kevinj

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If you're really interested in this category of saw...then, I'd say the answer is yes! The 200 will seriously out perform the 192. In the long run, you will scarcely remember the additional money that the MS 200 will cost you...unless of course...you're a hopeless meiser! :hmm3grin2orange:

Thanks OLY,
I will wait just a little to afford the 200.

If I was a hopeless meiser,

I'd Shame myself with a Husky !!!

:hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:


:cheers:
 
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Lakeside53

Lakeside53

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What is proven on the 200/200T is carb problems, as it was on the older 339s as well (not in the US, as they weren't there).....

no.. that was the 200T only (not 200). and the problem is gone...

339.. good luck in the USA.. and for a typical user, if any saw needs dealer support, it's these very compact saws...
 
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bcorradi

bcorradi

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ST - your getting redundant again and trying to boldly state facts based on your sliver of experience with the above mentioned saws. Instead of putting it the way you do why don't you say it like the following. I chose the 339 over the 200 rear handled version because I thought it handled nicer and according to the specs the 339 has a tad more power.
 
Ax-man

Ax-man

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So I decided to order a new 200t Stihl rear handle, instead of the top handled design. Many of you guys on here told me to stay away from the top handle for ground work. How do you guys like the rear handle 200t for ground work? I will have it in a week or so with a 12" bar...

Good for you !!!! You won't regret your decision. I have one that I use for climbing. Nicely balanced saw, plenty of power for it's size although it does get a little dogey if your running a 16" bar and cutting hardwood the same diameter or bigger than the 16 in. bar.

The first thing you will notice is the contoured grip on the front handle that is so much better than the standard round found on every other saw. It feels so good to your hand that you would swear the saw was custom made just for you:clap:

I would use my RH 200 for ground work because it is so light and well balanced and plenty of chain speed, but I don't because it is my personal climbing saw and don't like to see it used for ground work, although that doesn't stop my guys when I am on the ground and the saw is too. With all the saws we have on a job site they will go out of their way to grab that one ARRRGH. As long as it is kept out of the dirt I don't say anything except give them a dirty look:greenchainsaw:

I was on a job and a landscaper who uses us for his tree work stopped by on a job we were working to see when we could get his job done . He started asking me about which of Sthil's small saws are the best. I let him pick up my rearhandled MS. Next thing to happen, out comes the cell phone getting a quote for a saw just like mine. He had it a week later and told me it was the best little saw he had ever run and will take care of anything he needs to cut and is easy on hands because the anti-vibs are really good on this saw.

To me a 12 in bar is a little too small for that saw. I think you will find this out. A 14" in bar is OK but still limiting. A 16" is pretty much standard for the MS 200 top or rear handled. Forget the .325 pitch it won't work on a 200 because it is not available for that saw. Even it was it is too big of chain for that saw to pull. If you want to jazz your saw up a little go to a 7 tooth sprocket insead of the 6 tooth that comes on it. You will have to change out your oiler gear, it all comes in a change over kit. Don''t hold me to this but I don't think you can get a rim sprocket for a 200, I could be wrong. If it is it would be nice instead of a spur sprocket.

The only thing you have to watch for with the rear handled version of the MS 200 is the air filter cover has a tendency to come off. This is only happened to me while climbing in a tree with it. I don't think this would be a problem on the ground. Tree limbs can do some strange things when your up in them climbing around. Trees don't have good manners with climbers in them.

Brad, you are so right about the 339 or whatever Husky calls it. The 338 was a loser from the first that no one cares to get burned twice, myself included. Having a Husky saw in my area is like being out in the middle of the desert with an empty canteen. Your SOL when it comes to parts for a Husky.

I have said enough. Probaly too much

Larry
 
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belgian

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My biggest problem is realizing that I need to put it down and pick up a bigger saw when the wood starts to get larger. This saw loves to eat and its so nimble and quick. :clap:

+1 !

I can only confirm the above statements. As stated before, I prefer short bars in general on all my saws, so I choose the 12" bar, which makes it a screaming performer. I never realised before that limbing small stuff could be sooooo much fun.... :cheers:
 
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SAWITALL

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I think the 335/338 left such a bad taste in people's mouths that they are leary to try the 339xp. With that said, I doubt there are more than a handful of people on here that have enough runtime on a 339 to give it a thorough evaluation. I doubt you have enough runtime on either to give an accurate evaluation. The 200t is extremely proven, so its not hard to fathom the 200 rear handle being a winner also.

+100...........................................:clap: :clap:
 
bluequill56

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I've been thinking about a rear handle 200 too, but I've got a couple of questions. The Stihl web-site lists the MS 200 rear handle as an occasion user saw sandwiched right between the 180 and 210. I thought (especially for the $$!) that it would be a pro class saw. Just curious why it does not deserve the 'pro' distinction? Also, I assume the std muffler mod will wake them up a little, but I think I heard/read that they don't have high speed carb adjustments? If they are fixed jet, is modding the muffler a bad idea? If it's OK to mod the muffler, what's the best thing to do? Just open the existing hole?
 
2000ssm6

2000ssm6

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The 200T/rear handle is fo sho a pro saw. Heck, its the best climber's saw out.

I'm showing both of the avaiable carbs on the 200T to have a "H" screw...The C1Q-S61 does have a limiter cap on it's H screw, no prob though.
 
Lakeside53

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I've been thinking about a rear handle 200 too, but I've got a couple of questions. The Stihl web-site lists the MS 200 rear handle as an occasion user saw sandwiched right between the 180 and 210. I thought (especially for the $$!) that it would be a pro class saw. Just curious why it does not deserve the 'pro' distinction? Also, I assume the std muffler mod will wake them up a little, but I think I heard/read that they don't have high speed carb adjustments? If they are fixed jet, is modding the muffler a bad idea? If it's OK to mod the muffler, what's the best thing to do? Just open the existing hole?

Nope.. is a full blown pro saw.... you're thinking of the 210..

The MS200 has an adjustable carb, and the muffler is fine as it is. Need to "mod" it? Take out the screen (but not in dry or western forests...)- creates a "second" port.
 
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